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HLR6167WAX/XAA Digital board problems

181652 Views 292 Replies 42 Participants Last post by  lcaillo
This set started having problems with tiling when cold, going green with patterns of lines, and other patterns of distorted images. It would clear up when run for a couple of hours. At the time, the digital board was on backorder, and in order to get the client up and running, I pulled the digital board from my personal set and installed it. This worked, assuring me that the digital board was the problem. I transferred the bad board to my set, and it had the same issues. After using it a while longer, it began having other symptoms, including locking up with no pix and turning off. Eventually, the set would start the lamp, never have any video nor any sound, then shut down after about a minute. It remained that way for a couple of months while I waited on a board.

Along the way, I have heard from a couple of sites, including Jason1976 here, that the problem may be connections on the DNIE chip on the digital board, near the DVI connector at the back side of the board. Apparently people were having success applying pressure to this chip. It is a BGA type (Ball Grid Array) that has pins underneath that contact points on the board. This is becoming common with high density ICs where external pin connections require larger size chips, tighter spacing, and geometries that are not efficient for the design of the chip. There are good reasons to use BGA, but they can be difficult to solder properly. Apparently, Samsung has had some issues with this chip.

One solution is to try to re-flow the slder. I don't suggest this for anyone without the right equipment. It is very easy to heat the wrong parts or overheat the chip, board, or related parts.

So I decided to experiment. I received the new board that had been on backorder, but figured I would play with the bad one as an experiment. The board is encased in a metal housing with holes. I looked in my shop for something that might fit between the chip and housing to put some pressure on the chip. I found a small bolt that happened to be just a litte too long to fit between the chip and the metal housing above it. I fitted it in, then pushed the edges of the housing down to where I could put the screws holding it all together back in. There was significant tension on the bolt, with the larger hex head end standing on the chip and the tip of the screw fitting against the metal housing (bolt standing on its head on top of the chip). It took a little pressure to get the screws back in, which was good, as it used the housing like a large spring pushing down on the bolt, which put a great deal of pressure on the chip. Simple solution if this is the problem.

The result is that the set fired up the first time and has run fine since. I don't know how long it will work, but I will run it and see. I have the other board, if anyone needs one. Keeping it will cost me an extra $50 on top of its cost, as it does have a core value and we normally send them back for credit. It will be worth it to have a new board on hand if my solution fails, or if another client needs one.

The part number for the digital board for this set is BP94-02084A. This is for the HLR6167WAX/XAA, L64C chassis type. You need to verify all of the suffixes on the service model and the chassis number to get the right board for Samsung sets, particularly these. There were many production changes and versions of these sets and some differences in the boards. Some even reportedly need to have the analog and digital boards changed together for some reason, but this one does not.
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Thanks much for posting the details on this fix. Great stuff and I hope this works for me.

I'm wanting to try this on my HLR5067WAX/XAA and would appreciate some basic guidance. I opened the large back panel and I think the board I'm looking for is the one with the digital input connectors on it (VGA, HDMI, anynet, g-link, and digital audio out (optical)) as this has a sticker with part bp-94-02084a on it. Had to take off the gray connector plate on the left when looking from the back of the TV and it's at the bottom of that area. Can you please confirm this is the right board to target?

What is the best approach to free the board? Remove the whole chassis with the top board on it with all the analog connectors on it too? There are LOTS of connectors to the top board from other parts of the TV that would have to be removed. But when I try and slide out just the lower digital board there are multiple connectors between it and the top board (analog board I assume) that are connected in the back and hard to reach to free just the digital board. If I need to unplug all the connectors to the top board, so be it, but there were so many I had to stop and ask if I'm crazy.

So far, I unscrewed the big white DVI looking connector on the right side of it to free it up to pull out. I also removed a black small cable from the top of the vertical part of the housing and had to unscrew a gray fan box that was on the board above preventing me from pulling out the housing. As I started pulling I noticed a multi-pin ribbon connector between the top and bottom board and unplugged it only to find there were many more similar connections. I then went to remove the whole chassis but need confirmation that's the best way.

Any detail around removing and getting to the digital board would be appreciated.

That's the correct board. There are 3 cables that unhook from the top board to the bottom digital board. It can be unplugged from the back but it's easyer to unplug all the top wires and remove the hole thing at once. Whats nice is they are all different sizes you don't have to worry about plugging them into the wrong spots. Just make sure you dont forget to plug any of them in.

It seams that samsung tv's that have this board number BP94-02084A have issues with the digital board. All the models that used it have the same issue. Why hasn't samsung had a recall on these boards? we need to make a list of tv's that use it. we know that HLR6167WAX/XAA, and HLR5067WAX/XAA use it but are there other models that use it like the HLR4667WAX/XAA I am thinking that most of the tv's with model HLR___67WAX/XAA may all use this board.
I beleave I am the first one to come up with putting pressure on that chip. I posted info about doing this on other sites after I had luck trying it. There was no info about doing this until I tried it. I like your way of putting pressure on the chip. It's a lot better then the foil Idea I had.

how much do you want for the board? remember I tried to remelt the solder after someone told me to try a heat gun and it killed mine. I would have to send you my old board for the core charge.

lcaillo how much would you charge a customer to do this kind of repair? useing a bolt, washers, and nuts. :bigsmile:

normaly repair shops replace the board. I came up with the idea of putting pressure on the chip not that long ago and people are still testing to see if it's going to last. you could try this yourself if you are handy. if you are not handy you may want to print this out and take it to a local repair shop to see if they could try this and see how much they would charge. but you may want to wait to see if this idea works for the long run. wait a few weeks and check back. but if you are handy you could try this and keep us informed if you have any issues or if this is working for you. you may want to look at my thread also. it shows you what chip you need to put the pressure on. the bolt idea lcaillo did is a better idea then my foil idea. over time the foil may compact and may not keep it tight like the bolt idea lcaillo used.

The board is around 238 dollars on average. but if this fix works it would just cost for A few nuts, washers, and a long bolt cut to fit,

http://www.samsungparts.com/part_de...&product_id=BP94-02084A&search_model=HLR6167W <---- link for the board

ps the board is normaly on backorder.

from what the web page says this board is used in models HLR4667W, HLR5067W, HLR5667W, HLR6167W
very nice write up tito. when i took my digital board out it didnt have any glue. I bought my set as used non working with the matching stand for 50 dollars. it makes me wonder if the digital board has been replaced before.
Jason1976, I'm very encouraged that your fix may solve the same problem that I've had for almost 1 year. My HL-R5067W's picture would randomly freeze, inputs would go in and out, the screen would turn green and garbled, and the remote would be rendered useless at times. Almost threw out the set after a repair guy quoted me over $700 to replace the whole light engine. He determined that one of the main chips on the digital board was not getting the proper inductance. So your identification of the DNIe chip sounds right on. Kudos to you and tito for your ideas. I'm gonna give it a go here in the next few days and will report my findings as well.
Remember to take photos if you use other things. The idea of using washers is a good idea. That way if the fix doesn't fix your issues it doesn't leave marks on the case. Since the digital boards normally have a core charge if you buy a new one. It was lcaillo the came up with the idea of using a bolt. I was using foil. Remember we need to thank him. If this works you don't have to spend :spend: 238 dollars on a replacement digital board. If I wouldn't of messed up my board by tring to remelt the solder I would of made a youtube video with my digital camera. It takes mp4 videos. It would of most likely took more then one video since they can only be like 10 mins long each.

ps if anyone is in MD here is one of these tv's that most likely needs this fix but i think 300 is a high for a tv that would cost around 500 to 700 dollars to have fixed by a repair shop. http://baltimore.craigslist.org/ele/1348548047.html

ps. i was looking on the internet and I saw were someone put a link to this on http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=537675&page=129 ps bragginz called me justin1976.
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thats fine. your not the first one to call me justin. I used to work at a place and I never corrected the one lady.

wow I was just looking its not taking long for this post to have a lot of hits. you can even find videos on youtube with people having these issue. I hope more people are having luck doing this. please join the forum and let us know.
Thanks tito. I re-checked my cable connections, found my mistake...and got the TV to turn on. :T

Turns out I had a 4 pin cable in the wrong spot. All 3 connectors in the upper left hand should be empty. And the little one in the bottom right corner as well.

So far, all my inputs seem to be working well (hdmi, component, etc). I'll try and log in more hours with the TV and see how it does over the next few days. I'm cautiously optimistic after hearing that your problem re-emerged....

yes those remain empty. putting to much pressure on the board may make it bow and not let all the pins get connection or even brake more of the solder joints. tito may need to loosen the bolt and make sure the board isn't bowing. to were it only has a little pressure. that or he may want to put something under the board to keep it level. something plastic so it doesn't short anything out. like a soda cap cut to size so it fits under the board tight. flat part against the board. to keep the bolt from bowing the board.

ps. don't be like the used car dealer and selling the tv when it's working knowning down the road it is going to die again.
Start with just a little pressure and increase until it works. That is the nice thing about using a bolt and nuts. You can control the amount of tension.

lcaillo have you had any issues? it looks like the end you use against the chip may of put more even pressure accross the hole chip. looks larger then what tito used. all we need to do is come up with a camp that we can sell on ebay. 30 dollars for 3 dollars in parts. :bigsmile:
I was looking around on parts.com and they say this board is used in models I didn't even know about the 67" model.

Samsung HLR4667W1X/XAA
Samsung HLR5067W1X/XAA
Samsung HLR5667WAX/XAA
Samsung HLR6167WAXXAP

Samsung HLR4667WAX
Samsung HLR5067WAX
Samsung HLR6167W1X/XAA
Samsung HLR6767WAX/XAA

Samsung HLR4667WAX/XAA
Samsung HLR5067WAXXAP
Samsung HLR6167WAX
Samsung HLR6767WAXXAP

Samsung HLR4667WAXXAP
Samsung HLR5667W1X/XAA
Samsung HLR6167WAX/XAA
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Even if it is just a bandage on the issue, and they come back. it would let people test there tv's to see if it is the digital board. that way they would be ordering the correct part. my tv wouldn't even turn on the hole way.

I was thinking with the likely hood of this going bad again. I may just part the tv out. I talked to the person I bought this tv from and the digital board was replaced under warranty and I am guessing thats why it didn't have any glue on the cables. they said the digital board was replaced about a year and a half ago under extended warranty. I am thinking I can just sell off the antalog board and the light engine and any other parts that are removeable and just trash the cabnit. I could use the money to get a new tv without take to much out of pocket.
tito I hope it works this time. I am not going to be around until the 7th or the 8th. I'm taking a trip but will be taking the laptop with me. I may pop in if i find a place with free wifi.
it should work for you tito. I am just afraid the new board will go bad in like 2.5 to 3 years. I was checking my email on the hotels free wifi. but they want to charge like 13 dollars a day to have the internet in the rooms. but wifi is free in public areas.
I think there is an option to flip the picture in the service menu. I forget were it's at but I saw it when I was looking the one day.

thats good that the fix worked for little bit. It let you know what was wrong, without ordering something and finding out it didn't fix the issue.
Fix didn't hold for me either. This may be for another thread, but anyone know what a decent price to ask for this thing as a parts box? I figured with the other parts and the fact one tv is still working with HDMI fine means I should be able to get around $300 for the 50" and $350 for the 56".

I had to order 5 brand new LED LCD Samsung TV's for work over the last 3 months and 2 of them had to be sent back for replacements due to various issues. This in addition to both my Samsung DLP's going out means I'm done with Samsung.
I normaly see them selling broken for about 50 to 100 dollars on ebay. you maybe better off to take the parts out yourself and sell them as working parts on ebay. even thoe your hdmi is still working it's only a matter of time until the board fully fails and the tv won't power up. I paid 50 dollars for my samsung 50" as a broken tv.

to give you an idea here is a guy trying to sell a 50" for 200 dollars and he is now taking best offer just to get rid of it. http://baltimore.craigslist.org/ele/1362616620.html

here is one were someone says it just needs a lamp in tampa fl and they want 135 dollars
Hi All,

I would just like to reply to this and say that I have had great success with this fix. I have a 3.5 year old HL-R5067W that suffered from the green distorted picture problem described in the first post. So far so good. The television has been running flawlessly for a week now, and I must say it is nice to have back. It has been sitting in the basement for almost 4 months.

I do have one thing to note. When I put everything back together to test, I did not feel like putting the back cover on. It turns out there is switch to verify that the lamp cover is in place. If this switch is not actuated, the television will turn on (and show a picture) for about 10 to 20 seconds and then shut off. The lamp and standby lights will be blinking to indicate this. I simply taped it down for a couple days until I got around to putting the back panel back on. See the link below to locate the switch, there are some pictures to help.

(I cant post a real link since I am a new user, so just put this after the http)


I will keep an eye on this board. Much Thanks
most likely the fix wont last. ( most of us had it work for a few days to a week or two then they start acting up again. the good thing is it helped you find out it's the digital board and it can be ordered from www.samsungparts.com after you return the old board for a core charge it cost about 188 dollars. I say keep using it until it starts acting up again. just in case the fix will keep working for you.
boy does this post have a lot of hits. looks like a lot of people with this issue. not every one is a do it yourself kind of person. there are not many people that do things themself. there could easyly be 100's of thounds of these sets broken with this issue.
Jason, please do not throw numbers like that around. It is pure speculation and things get taken as fact on the internet when they are really just casual comments.

There are a lot more people who research service problems themselves these days, even if they do not try to fix them themselves. Easily a third of my clients have done some form of research before calling for service. It is impossible to put numbers on these matters, however. Many of the hits are Everyone who ever bought a SLP RPTV will have a lamp to replace and many will research the problem before deciding to buy a lamp. I have seen many times that when a pattern of problems becomes apparent, people jump to lots of unfounded conclusions.
true but I am guessing there are a lot more then what we hear about with this issue. true a number can't be put on it. ( I just wish I new how many digital boards were being sold ) that would give you more of an idea. if a 3rd are calling you it makes you wonder how many people hear the cost of repair and just throw them out. like the guy on here that has the 50" and the 56" and they both have the same issue. that kind of tells you something when you have two of them and they both come up with the same issue. there are things I repair and as soon as I see it I know what to check out because I have seen a lot with the same issue. my mom had 3 vcr's of the same model. they all had the same issue in time. they all died within 2 years of each other. all ended up being a tranzister in the power supply. my grandma and my 2 aunt each had one too. they got them on sale. They also had the same issue. I used to repair vcr's when I was going to my high school vo-tech before I went to devry inc. I used to repair a lot of vcr's there were a lot of the same issues. like the one kind normaly had issues with the mode switch. a lot of brands used the same switch and that was common. and the hlr**67w is known for digital board issues. if you go onto cnet forums almost every few days you see people with this issue.

it's kind of like emachines and gateway computers having power supply issues and when they burn out they normaly kill the motherboard. when I worked at the computer repair shop we saw about 20 of them a week come threw with the same issue and there are more repair shops in the area it just made me wonder how many of them were failing a day. a lot of people don't know that emachines and gateway are the same company. It didn't matter the model number of computer. They all used the same brand of power supply. bestec. we were selling that brand also and stopped when we had a lot coming back.
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so far it hasn't worked long term. You can replace the digital board yourself. and it cost 188 dollars after the 50 dollar core charge. and it can be bought from www.samsungparts.com . the hardest part is setting things up in the service menu if you don't know what you are doing. but if you take your time most figure it out. I was thinking of making a youtube video showing people how to remove the digital board. If I had my new board I would make a youtube video showing people how to set things up in the service menu.
Does anyone know what the tv is trying to tell me when it shuts down and flashes lamp and temp/standby constantly. Otherwise my tv fires up well and the picture looks good. It just won't stay on anymore
it could be over heating. have you opened it up and cleaned the fans. to get to the light engine fan you have to remove the light engine. there is also a fan on the dmd board and a fan over by the digital board. other things can make this happen too. like bad solder joints. could be anything to tell the true. I have heard of bad lamps doing this also. were they turn on but after so long they turn off.
I too have the hrl5067 samsung dlp tv. It was working fine till I decided to use the tv as powerpoint viewer at my sons Cub Scout meeting on tuesday. I noticed that when I got there and powered it up that there was green patchwork showing on the screen. Once I plugged into the pc connection the tv worked fine. Brought the tv back home and reconnected all the inputs and both tuners (cable and ant.) and all the other extra components back up. I got the same green patchwork with Cable, Ant, Video 1&2. The inputs for PC, HDMI, and Video 3 all work fine. Am I going to have to order this digital board that I hear everyone talking about? or is this a different issue? When I watch an HD video feed the green is not as noticeable but is still there.

Any suggestions
Mark Cotter
most likely the digital board. it should be part number BP94-02084A but it's always good to open the set and check the part number on the board. It can be bought from www.samsungparts.com we have seen this issue before and after those people replace the digital board their tv's were working fine again.
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