Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

HLR6167WAX/XAA Digital board problems

181711 Views 292 Replies 42 Participants Last post by  lcaillo
This set started having problems with tiling when cold, going green with patterns of lines, and other patterns of distorted images. It would clear up when run for a couple of hours. At the time, the digital board was on backorder, and in order to get the client up and running, I pulled the digital board from my personal set and installed it. This worked, assuring me that the digital board was the problem. I transferred the bad board to my set, and it had the same issues. After using it a while longer, it began having other symptoms, including locking up with no pix and turning off. Eventually, the set would start the lamp, never have any video nor any sound, then shut down after about a minute. It remained that way for a couple of months while I waited on a board.

Along the way, I have heard from a couple of sites, including Jason1976 here, that the problem may be connections on the DNIE chip on the digital board, near the DVI connector at the back side of the board. Apparently people were having success applying pressure to this chip. It is a BGA type (Ball Grid Array) that has pins underneath that contact points on the board. This is becoming common with high density ICs where external pin connections require larger size chips, tighter spacing, and geometries that are not efficient for the design of the chip. There are good reasons to use BGA, but they can be difficult to solder properly. Apparently, Samsung has had some issues with this chip.

One solution is to try to re-flow the slder. I don't suggest this for anyone without the right equipment. It is very easy to heat the wrong parts or overheat the chip, board, or related parts.

So I decided to experiment. I received the new board that had been on backorder, but figured I would play with the bad one as an experiment. The board is encased in a metal housing with holes. I looked in my shop for something that might fit between the chip and housing to put some pressure on the chip. I found a small bolt that happened to be just a litte too long to fit between the chip and the metal housing above it. I fitted it in, then pushed the edges of the housing down to where I could put the screws holding it all together back in. There was significant tension on the bolt, with the larger hex head end standing on the chip and the tip of the screw fitting against the metal housing (bolt standing on its head on top of the chip). It took a little pressure to get the screws back in, which was good, as it used the housing like a large spring pushing down on the bolt, which put a great deal of pressure on the chip. Simple solution if this is the problem.

The result is that the set fired up the first time and has run fine since. I don't know how long it will work, but I will run it and see. I have the other board, if anyone needs one. Keeping it will cost me an extra $50 on top of its cost, as it does have a core value and we normally send them back for credit. It will be worth it to have a new board on hand if my solution fails, or if another client needs one.

The part number for the digital board for this set is BP94-02084A. This is for the HLR6167WAX/XAA, L64C chassis type. You need to verify all of the suffixes on the service model and the chassis number to get the right board for Samsung sets, particularly these. There were many production changes and versions of these sets and some differences in the boards. Some even reportedly need to have the analog and digital boards changed together for some reason, but this one does not.
See less See more
Not open for further replies.
1 - 16 of 293 Posts
Hi. I have an HRL5067W and it died about 1 month after my extended warranty ended! doh! I have since bought a new (Samsung...again) LCD TV. I tried my hardest not to get Samsung again but the picture quality looked best.

Anyway, I have a gigantic piece of junk just sitting in my dining room. Couldn't even sell it for 100 bucks as is. Repair shop says a new digital board, installed, would cost me 450. Not too bad really...but if I can get it for 188, I'll go that route. Thinking I may do that.

It's great to see someone else with the same EXACT problems I had. First, my TV would have trouble turning back on...this occurred right after a small power surge we had. I had a surge protector, so basically the set lost power "suddenly". Somehow, this caused the problem....like it got in some in between state and was confused. Anyway, I had to plug and unplug the TV many times to get it to turn back on. It would work for several days, until the power went out again...doh! Then, I started getting the green and pink "plaide" lines. As others have stated, there were less lines when watching over the air HD channels...only small sporadic colored "squares". At first the DVD player worked...but even that went bad eventually.

I think I will attemp to buy and replace this board myself. From what I can gather, I need to take many pictures to remember what wires go where, and also transfer TV settings internally in case the screen gets flipped. Any other words of wisdom from those who have done this? I really appreciate this thread, thanks a million! Samsung should be ashamed of themselves for selling us all lemons!

I guess first I need to be sure it is the digital board, and not DMD? How do I know?

Today I plugged in the air antenna...and the HD channels looked fine! But, any S video or A/V cable (video game) inputs have the green lines. I'm gonna try to use HDMI from my video camera and see if it displays correctly or not. Will do tomorrow. Then, can somebody tell me exactly what part is bad for sure?
See less See more
Thanks Jason, I'll consider that.

Ok, I have tested everything. Here is what I found...

1) DirecTV through S video, Component DVD, and A/V video games all have green lines on the screen.
2) Over the air antenna HD channels looks pretty good...sometimes has some quality issues.
3) Replay through my HD Camcorder using HDMI looks MOSTLY fine, but there are green squares across the bottom 2 inches of the screen.
4) The TV sometimes has trouble turning on.

Is this enough to determine for sure what I need replaced, if I go that route?
Last night I did the "candle tin and alcohol" trick, put it back together, and to my surprise, it worked! I went to bed, got up this morning, and tested it again (still on the living room floor), still worked! Now, I just moved it back into our bedroom, hooked it up, and it DOES NOT WORK!! How depressing. I almost wonder if unplugging it to many times has something to do with it. I may take it apart in the bedroom again and see if that does the trick. sigh.
True...I was sceptical whether or not it got hot enough. For this go around I did not put any "weight" in the tin, because I was afraid that if it did melt, too much weight could cause horizonatal spreading of the solder and short circuit the chip. Then again, maybe there was too little weight. I really need a heat gun to do this. I DID, however, also use an old socket to put pressure on the chip after I was done with it. So maybe THAT is what helped it work at first, then it got loose again when I moved it?

Speaking of all this...how confident are we that this particular chip is the problem? Is it just an educated guess? Also, I don't understand why all my analog stuff does not work, if this is a digital board problem...
Jason...I sent that XBOX reflowing guy a message, we'll see what he says about it.

I remember I had an "iron" from an old car dashboard repair kit, that was like a soldering iron, but the bottom was round and flat, about the size of a nickel. I wonder if it would get hot enough if I rubbed that on to of the chip...
The part I don't understand is why the non-digital inputs are also scrambled if this is a digital board issue....does this chip control those as well? THe XBOX guys says it's extra to reball microprocessors...I wonder how the DNIe chip ranks (how many pins does it have?).
I"m going to try this guy out. This is what he said:

I said:
Dear jdelectronone,

I have a digital board for a Samsung DLP 50" TV. I think the problem is the DNIe chip which may need to be reseated. I tried the "candle tin and alcohol" trick but it did not get hot enough to melt the solder under the chip. Would you perform this service on this board? Thanks.

- corepuncher

He responded:
You can send it to us, we would charge $25.00 and return shipping . Please include your contact information and a general description of what needs to be done and what you have done . Thank You !
- jdelectronone
I am unclear whether he will simply reflow the solder or actually re-ball it? Also, I wonder if there are any other chips on that board that need to be overhauled? Watch us get the DNIe chip fixed, and it still does not work! :eek:
Yeah Jason posted a link: http://jdelectronicsinc.com/

I wonder...if we could get a discount or a re-balling for that same price if we told him up front we could send him a lot of business.

Anyway, I'm going to try him. I just don't know if I should get it reflowed, or pay to have the chip totally reballed?
I asked him about reball. He said that reflow takes care of most of the problems he's seen, rarely reball...but it costs $85.00 if you need to do it. So, 25.00 to reflow, 85.00 to reball, 10.00 shipping. Will send in my board tomorrow, and report back once I get it back.
Question: If I send my digital board to this guy, do I need to go through the steps of saving its info on the tv as mentioned in previous posts on this thread...or can I just take it out and send it in. It has been a while since I had my tv apart trying the pressure fix...is taking the digital board out easy? Are there any pic of the process?
Yeah there are pictures, just go back a few pages in this same thread. Just take it out and send it in. But you may want to wait until I get mine back to see if it works.
The "reflow" people said they fixed my board and it should be here next week. The cost ended up being 39.95 total. A little more than the 30-35 I expected, but oh well. They told me they worked on 3 chips on the board...that's what the price included. The DNIe chip, a smaller TI chip and a third I have no idea which one, but might as well "fix" them all. I'll install it as soon as it comes in the mail (probably Mon or Tue) and will report back. Fingers crossed!!!!!!!!!!!
I'm still waiting to get my board back. I would think it would come today or tomorrow...
Got the board back today after having it "reflowed." Plugged everything in. Turned it on. Held my breath.

So far, so good. Have turned it on and off a few times now and it works. However, I'll know more after a few days, because the last time I took it apart and put it back together, it also worked at first, but then the next day did not (after I moved it). Anyway, it APPEARS to have been fixed.

40 bucks instead of 500...not bad! :D
glad to here that it is working corepuncher. hope you dont have any issues. $40 is cheap if it takes care of the issue.
And to think I was literally ready to throw it into a dumpster!
Update: No change since last post. TV still works wonderfully! I'm sure soon my bulb will burn out :-(

It was 40 bucks total, but I see now that they are charging 75.00 on ebay for this procedure.
1 - 16 of 293 Posts
Not open for further replies.