The (COMPONENT 2) and (HDMI) source inputs do not detect any source when I have a either cable HDMI plugged into the TV HDMI or cable RED, BLUE, GREEN source plugged into (COMPONENT 2).
It has been one week and so far so good. Here's hoping for two.My Samsung 56" DLP started acting up with the plaid green screen last week and eventually wouldn't turn on. I came across these forums trying to find a fix. After reading the troubles with the pressure hack, I decided to skip it and try reflowing the solder as shown in the second video in the link Jason1976 posted. So far it has been working for a couple hours and after several power ups. I didn't have a tea candle so I used a large bottle cap. I will give an update later on if it continues to work or not; hopefully it will.
Thats good that it worked this long. I never had a chance to try it. how long did it burn? I wish I would of found the video before trying to reflow the solder using a heat gun. I over heated the one I have.It has been one week and so far so good. Here's hoping for two.
Do you still have your old digital board to give it a try. I know the metal would get very hot and hot fast.I just don't see how you can get enough heat to it to melt the solder with this method.
you may want to try the remelt the solder trick useing a metal soda cap or a tea light candel with rubbing alcahal and give that a try. if that works you won't need a new digital board. a few people had good luck and say they end up burning it 3 times and it works.Hi. I have an HRL5067W and it died about 1 month after my extended warranty ended! doh! I have since bought a new (Samsung...again) LCD TV. I tried my hardest not to get Samsung again but the picture quality looked best.
Anyway, I have a gigantic piece of junk just sitting in my dining room. Couldn't even sell it for 100 bucks as is. Repair shop says a new digital board, installed, would cost me 450. Not too bad really...but if I can get it for 188, I'll go that route. Thinking I may do that.
It's great to see someone else with the same EXACT problems I had. First, my TV would have trouble turning back on...this occurred right after a small power surge we had. I had a surge protector, so basically the set lost power "suddenly". Somehow, this caused the problem....like it got in some in between state and was confused. Anyway, I had to plug and unplug the TV many times to get it to turn back on. It would work for several days, until the power went out again...doh! Then, I started getting the green and pink "plaide" lines. As others have stated, there were less lines when watching over the air HD channels...only small sporadic colored "squares". At first the DVD player worked...but even that went bad eventually.
I think I will attemp to buy and replace this board myself. From what I can gather, I need to take many pictures to remember what wires go where, and also transfer TV settings internally in case the screen gets flipped. Any other words of wisdom from those who have done this? I really appreciate this thread, thanks a million! Samsung should be ashamed of themselves for selling us all lemons!
I guess first I need to be sure it is the digital board, and not DMD? How do I know?
Today I plugged in the air antenna...and the HD channels looked fine! But, any S video or A/V cable (video game) inputs have the green lines. I'm gonna try to use HDMI from my video camera and see if it displays correctly or not. Will do tomorrow. Then, can somebody tell me exactly what part is bad for sure?
everything you said are normaly issues with the dnie chip on the digital board. ether replace the digital board or try to remelt the solder. the board can be bought from samsungparts.com and i think it should be part number bp94-02084a but you should open your tv and make sure the part number matches. It's the same issue most of us have had with this model of tv. fairly common issue.Thanks Jason, I'll consider that.
Ok, I have tested everything. Here is what I found...
1) DirecTV through S video, Component DVD, and A/V video games all have green lines on the screen.
2) Over the air antenna HD channels looks pretty good...sometimes has some quality issues.
3) Replay through my HD Camcorder using HDMI looks MOSTLY fine, but there are green squares across the bottom 2 inches of the screen.
4) The TV sometimes has trouble turning on.
Is this enough to determine for sure what I need replaced, if I go that route?
I just tried it with a chip removed from a board and put solder under it and it never melted the solder. so this idea wont work. I saw a listing on ebay were someone says they rebake boards for xbox I wonder if he would rebake these boards for us. look at Item number: 170384404841 they offer reflow of xbox 360. I wonder if they can reflow our boards too.I just don't believe this technique will get enough heat to the solder to reflow it. You have to get the chip very hot and an alcohol flame in this setup just won't be enough. If you can't melt solder on the chip you certainly won't reflow that which is underneath with the board sinking heat.
some of us had it were our tv's wouldn't even turn on after the issue got to bad. just the lamp light would flash. after putting pressure on this chip our tv's would turn on again and worked about a week then we started to get the green plaid look again. I removed the pressure off mine and it wouldnt turn on again. then i put the pressure back and it turned on again.True...I was sceptical whether or not it got hot enough. For this go around I did not put any "weight" in the tin, because I was afraid that if it did melt, too much weight could cause horizonatal spreading of the solder and short circuit the chip. Then again, maybe there was too little weight. I really need a heat gun to do this. I DID, however, also use an old socket to put pressure on the chip after I was done with it. So maybe THAT is what helped it work at first, then it got loose again when I moved it?
Speaking of all this...how confident are we that this particular chip is the problem? Is it just an educated guess? Also, I don't understand why all my analog stuff does not work, if this is a digital board problem...