The (COMPONENT 2) and (HDMI) source inputs do not detect any source when I have a either cable HDMI plugged into the TV HDMI or cable RED, BLUE, GREEN source plugged into (COMPONENT 2).
HLR6167WAX/XAA Digital board problems
This set started having problems with tiling when cold, going green with patterns of lines, and other patterns of distorted images. It would clear up when run for a couple of hours. At the time, the digital board was on backorder, and in order to get the client up and running, I pulled the digital board from my personal set and installed it. This worked, assuring me that the digital board was the problem. I transferred the bad board to my set, and it had the same issues. After using it a while longer, it began having other symptoms, including locking up with no pix and turning off. Eventually, the set would start the lamp, never have any video nor any sound, then shut down after about a minute. It remained that way for a couple of months while I waited on a board.
Along the way, I have heard from a couple of sites, including Jason1976 here, that the problem may be connections on the DNIE chip on the digital board, near the DVI connector at the back side of the board. Apparently people were having success applying pressure to this chip. It is a BGA type (Ball Grid Array) that has pins underneath that contact points on the board. This is becoming common with high density ICs where external pin connections require larger size chips, tighter spacing, and geometries that are not efficient for the design of the chip. There are good reasons to use BGA, but they can be difficult to solder properly. Apparently, Samsung has had some issues with this chip.
One solution is to try to re-flow the slder. I don't suggest this for anyone without the right equipment. It is very easy to heat the wrong parts or overheat the chip, board, or related parts.
So I decided to experiment. I received the new board that had been on backorder, but figured I would play with the bad one as an experiment. The board is encased in a metal housing with holes. I looked in my shop for something that might fit between the chip and housing to put some pressure on the chip. I found a small bolt that happened to be just a litte too long to fit between the chip and the metal housing above it. I fitted it in, then pushed the edges of the housing down to where I could put the screws holding it all together back in. There was significant tension on the bolt, with the larger hex head end standing on the chip and the tip of the screw fitting against the metal housing (bolt standing on its head on top of the chip). It took a little pressure to get the screws back in, which was good, as it used the housing like a large spring pushing down on the bolt, which put a great deal of pressure on the chip. Simple solution if this is the problem.
The result is that the set fired up the first time and has run fine since. I don't know how long it will work, but I will run it and see. I have the other board, if anyone needs one. Keeping it will cost me an extra $50 on top of its cost, as it does have a core value and we normally send them back for credit. It will be worth it to have a new board on hand if my solution fails, or if another client needs one.
The part number for the digital board for this set is BP94-02084A. This is for the HLR6167WAX/XAA, L64C chassis type. You need to verify all of the suffixes on the service model and the chassis number to get the right board for Samsung sets, particularly these. There were many production changes and versions of these sets and some differences in the boards. Some even reportedly need to have the analog and digital boards changed together for some reason, but this one does not.
Along the way, I have heard from a couple of sites, including Jason1976 here, that the problem may be connections on the DNIE chip on the digital board, near the DVI connector at the back side of the board. Apparently people were having success applying pressure to this chip. It is a BGA type (Ball Grid Array) that has pins underneath that contact points on the board. This is becoming common with high density ICs where external pin connections require larger size chips, tighter spacing, and geometries that are not efficient for the design of the chip. There are good reasons to use BGA, but they can be difficult to solder properly. Apparently, Samsung has had some issues with this chip.
One solution is to try to re-flow the slder. I don't suggest this for anyone without the right equipment. It is very easy to heat the wrong parts or overheat the chip, board, or related parts.
So I decided to experiment. I received the new board that had been on backorder, but figured I would play with the bad one as an experiment. The board is encased in a metal housing with holes. I looked in my shop for something that might fit between the chip and housing to put some pressure on the chip. I found a small bolt that happened to be just a litte too long to fit between the chip and the metal housing above it. I fitted it in, then pushed the edges of the housing down to where I could put the screws holding it all together back in. There was significant tension on the bolt, with the larger hex head end standing on the chip and the tip of the screw fitting against the metal housing (bolt standing on its head on top of the chip). It took a little pressure to get the screws back in, which was good, as it used the housing like a large spring pushing down on the bolt, which put a great deal of pressure on the chip. Simple solution if this is the problem.
The result is that the set fired up the first time and has run fine since. I don't know how long it will work, but I will run it and see. I have the other board, if anyone needs one. Keeping it will cost me an extra $50 on top of its cost, as it does have a core value and we normally send them back for credit. It will be worth it to have a new board on hand if my solution fails, or if another client needs one.
The part number for the digital board for this set is BP94-02084A. This is for the HLR6167WAX/XAA, L64C chassis type. You need to verify all of the suffixes on the service model and the chassis number to get the right board for Samsung sets, particularly these. There were many production changes and versions of these sets and some differences in the boards. Some even reportedly need to have the analog and digital boards changed together for some reason, but this one does not.
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
121 - 140 of 293 Posts
They use microswitches on the analog inputs, not sure about HDMI. It could be bad switches, or it could be a communication problem. These sets behave strangely when the digital board problems start showing up. It is very difficult to troubleshoot them because of the way the boards are located. You can take them out of the shields to get to them to trace signals but it requires a longer DVI cable to set them up to work. You would also need a scope to trace the signals.
It has been one week and so far so good. Here's hoping for two.My Samsung 56" DLP started acting up with the plaid green screen last week and eventually wouldn't turn on. I came across these forums trying to find a fix. After reading the troubles with the pressure hack, I decided to skip it and try reflowing the solder as shown in the second video in the link Jason1976 posted. So far it has been working for a couple hours and after several power ups. I didn't have a tea candle so I used a large bottle cap. I will give an update later on if it continues to work or not; hopefully it will.
Thats good that it worked this long. I never had a chance to try it. how long did it burn? I wish I would of found the video before trying to reflow the solder using a heat gun. I over heated the one I have.It has been one week and so far so good. Here's hoping for two.
http://www.ifitjams.com/2008/08/reflowing-solder-under-bga-processors.html
If this works thats a big saveings over buying a new board.
this next web page shows you more info but they are showing you on an apple ibook. but it's the same idea.
http://geektechnique.org/projectlab/726/diy-obsolete-ibook-logic- board-repair
It burned about 3 minutes before I blew it out. My bottle cap had a much smaller surface area than the tea candle so the flame was not nearly as large as in the video; 4 inches high at most.
I just don't see how you can get enough heat to it to melt the solder with this method.
Do you still have your old digital board to give it a try. I know the metal would get very hot and hot fast.I just don't see how you can get enough heat to it to melt the solder with this method.
one way to find out. do a test without it on a chip and see if the metal is hot enough to melt solder, or find an old chip that was removed off of a board and put solder under the chip and try this to see if it melts the solder.
Hi. I have an HRL5067W and it died about 1 month after my extended warranty ended! doh! I have since bought a new (Samsung...again) LCD TV. I tried my hardest not to get Samsung again but the picture quality looked best.
Anyway, I have a gigantic piece of junk just sitting in my dining room. Couldn't even sell it for 100 bucks as is. Repair shop says a new digital board, installed, would cost me 450. Not too bad really...but if I can get it for 188, I'll go that route. Thinking I may do that.
It's great to see someone else with the same EXACT problems I had. First, my TV would have trouble turning back on...this occurred right after a small power surge we had. I had a surge protector, so basically the set lost power "suddenly". Somehow, this caused the problem....like it got in some in between state and was confused. Anyway, I had to plug and unplug the TV many times to get it to turn back on. It would work for several days, until the power went out again...doh! Then, I started getting the green and pink "plaide" lines. As others have stated, there were less lines when watching over the air HD channels...only small sporadic colored "squares". At first the DVD player worked...but even that went bad eventually.
I think I will attemp to buy and replace this board myself. From what I can gather, I need to take many pictures to remember what wires go where, and also transfer TV settings internally in case the screen gets flipped. Any other words of wisdom from those who have done this? I really appreciate this thread, thanks a million! Samsung should be ashamed of themselves for selling us all lemons!
I guess first I need to be sure it is the digital board, and not DMD? How do I know?
Today I plugged in the air antenna...and the HD channels looked fine! But, any S video or A/V cable (video game) inputs have the green lines. I'm gonna try to use HDMI from my video camera and see if it displays correctly or not. Will do tomorrow. Then, can somebody tell me exactly what part is bad for sure?
Anyway, I have a gigantic piece of junk just sitting in my dining room. Couldn't even sell it for 100 bucks as is. Repair shop says a new digital board, installed, would cost me 450. Not too bad really...but if I can get it for 188, I'll go that route. Thinking I may do that.
It's great to see someone else with the same EXACT problems I had. First, my TV would have trouble turning back on...this occurred right after a small power surge we had. I had a surge protector, so basically the set lost power "suddenly". Somehow, this caused the problem....like it got in some in between state and was confused. Anyway, I had to plug and unplug the TV many times to get it to turn back on. It would work for several days, until the power went out again...doh! Then, I started getting the green and pink "plaide" lines. As others have stated, there were less lines when watching over the air HD channels...only small sporadic colored "squares". At first the DVD player worked...but even that went bad eventually.
I think I will attemp to buy and replace this board myself. From what I can gather, I need to take many pictures to remember what wires go where, and also transfer TV settings internally in case the screen gets flipped. Any other words of wisdom from those who have done this? I really appreciate this thread, thanks a million! Samsung should be ashamed of themselves for selling us all lemons!
I guess first I need to be sure it is the digital board, and not DMD? How do I know?
Today I plugged in the air antenna...and the HD channels looked fine! But, any S video or A/V cable (video game) inputs have the green lines. I'm gonna try to use HDMI from my video camera and see if it displays correctly or not. Will do tomorrow. Then, can somebody tell me exactly what part is bad for sure?
you may want to try the remelt the solder trick useing a metal soda cap or a tea light candel with rubbing alcahal and give that a try. if that works you won't need a new digital board. a few people had good luck and say they end up burning it 3 times and it works.Hi. I have an HRL5067W and it died about 1 month after my extended warranty ended! doh! I have since bought a new (Samsung...again) LCD TV. I tried my hardest not to get Samsung again but the picture quality looked best.
Anyway, I have a gigantic piece of junk just sitting in my dining room. Couldn't even sell it for 100 bucks as is. Repair shop says a new digital board, installed, would cost me 450. Not too bad really...but if I can get it for 188, I'll go that route. Thinking I may do that.
It's great to see someone else with the same EXACT problems I had. First, my TV would have trouble turning back on...this occurred right after a small power surge we had. I had a surge protector, so basically the set lost power "suddenly". Somehow, this caused the problem....like it got in some in between state and was confused. Anyway, I had to plug and unplug the TV many times to get it to turn back on. It would work for several days, until the power went out again...doh! Then, I started getting the green and pink "plaide" lines. As others have stated, there were less lines when watching over the air HD channels...only small sporadic colored "squares". At first the DVD player worked...but even that went bad eventually.
I think I will attemp to buy and replace this board myself. From what I can gather, I need to take many pictures to remember what wires go where, and also transfer TV settings internally in case the screen gets flipped. Any other words of wisdom from those who have done this? I really appreciate this thread, thanks a million! Samsung should be ashamed of themselves for selling us all lemons!
I guess first I need to be sure it is the digital board, and not DMD? How do I know?
Today I plugged in the air antenna...and the HD channels looked fine! But, any S video or A/V cable (video game) inputs have the green lines. I'm gonna try to use HDMI from my video camera and see if it displays correctly or not. Will do tomorrow. Then, can somebody tell me exactly what part is bad for sure?
Thanks Jason, I'll consider that.
Ok, I have tested everything. Here is what I found...
1) DirecTV through S video, Component DVD, and A/V video games all have green lines on the screen.
2) Over the air antenna HD channels looks pretty good...sometimes has some quality issues.
3) Replay through my HD Camcorder using HDMI looks MOSTLY fine, but there are green squares across the bottom 2 inches of the screen.
4) The TV sometimes has trouble turning on.
Is this enough to determine for sure what I need replaced, if I go that route?
Ok, I have tested everything. Here is what I found...
1) DirecTV through S video, Component DVD, and A/V video games all have green lines on the screen.
2) Over the air antenna HD channels looks pretty good...sometimes has some quality issues.
3) Replay through my HD Camcorder using HDMI looks MOSTLY fine, but there are green squares across the bottom 2 inches of the screen.
4) The TV sometimes has trouble turning on.
Is this enough to determine for sure what I need replaced, if I go that route?
everything you said are normaly issues with the dnie chip on the digital board. ether replace the digital board or try to remelt the solder. the board can be bought from samsungparts.com and i think it should be part number bp94-02084a but you should open your tv and make sure the part number matches. It's the same issue most of us have had with this model of tv. fairly common issue.Thanks Jason, I'll consider that.
Ok, I have tested everything. Here is what I found...
1) DirecTV through S video, Component DVD, and A/V video games all have green lines on the screen.
2) Over the air antenna HD channels looks pretty good...sometimes has some quality issues.
3) Replay through my HD Camcorder using HDMI looks MOSTLY fine, but there are green squares across the bottom 2 inches of the screen.
4) The TV sometimes has trouble turning on.
Is this enough to determine for sure what I need replaced, if I go that route?
Last night I did the "candle tin and alcohol" trick, put it back together, and to my surprise, it worked! I went to bed, got up this morning, and tested it again (still on the living room floor), still worked! Now, I just moved it back into our bedroom, hooked it up, and it DOES NOT WORK!! How depressing. I almost wonder if unplugging it to many times has something to do with it. I may take it apart in the bedroom again and see if that does the trick. sigh.
how many times did you burn it? it may not of burned long enough. the one person said they let it burning 3 mins. even that one web page about the apple computer said they had to burn it 3 times in a row until it worked. I am wondering if it melted the solder when it was on your floor and when you were moving it rebroke. it may of not of remelted fully if it wasn't let burn long enough.
if all else fails you can just order the board from samsungparts.com
if all else fails you can just order the board from samsungparts.com
I just don't believe this technique will get enough heat to the solder to reflow it. You have to get the chip very hot and an alcohol flame in this setup just won't be enough. If you can't melt solder on the chip you certainly won't reflow that which is underneath with the board sinking heat.
True...I was sceptical whether or not it got hot enough. For this go around I did not put any "weight" in the tin, because I was afraid that if it did melt, too much weight could cause horizonatal spreading of the solder and short circuit the chip. Then again, maybe there was too little weight. I really need a heat gun to do this. I DID, however, also use an old socket to put pressure on the chip after I was done with it. So maybe THAT is what helped it work at first, then it got loose again when I moved it?
Speaking of all this...how confident are we that this particular chip is the problem? Is it just an educated guess? Also, I don't understand why all my analog stuff does not work, if this is a digital board problem...
Speaking of all this...how confident are we that this particular chip is the problem? Is it just an educated guess? Also, I don't understand why all my analog stuff does not work, if this is a digital board problem...
I just tried it with a chip removed from a board and put solder under it and it never melted the solder. so this idea wont work. I saw a listing on ebay were someone says they rebake boards for xbox I wonder if he would rebake these boards for us. look at Item number: 170384404841 they offer reflow of xbox 360. I wonder if they can reflow our boards too.I just don't believe this technique will get enough heat to the solder to reflow it. You have to get the chip very hot and an alcohol flame in this setup just won't be enough. If you can't melt solder on the chip you certainly won't reflow that which is underneath with the board sinking heat.
some of us had it were our tv's wouldn't even turn on after the issue got to bad. just the lamp light would flash. after putting pressure on this chip our tv's would turn on again and worked about a week then we started to get the green plaid look again. I removed the pressure off mine and it wouldnt turn on again. then i put the pressure back and it turned on again.True...I was sceptical whether or not it got hot enough. For this go around I did not put any "weight" in the tin, because I was afraid that if it did melt, too much weight could cause horizonatal spreading of the solder and short circuit the chip. Then again, maybe there was too little weight. I really need a heat gun to do this. I DID, however, also use an old socket to put pressure on the chip after I was done with it. So maybe THAT is what helped it work at first, then it got loose again when I moved it?
Speaking of all this...how confident are we that this particular chip is the problem? Is it just an educated guess? Also, I don't understand why all my analog stuff does not work, if this is a digital board problem...
Jason...I sent that XBOX reflowing guy a message, we'll see what he says about it.
I remember I had an "iron" from an old car dashboard repair kit, that was like a soldering iron, but the bottom was round and flat, about the size of a nickel. I wonder if it would get hot enough if I rubbed that on to of the chip...
I remember I had an "iron" from an old car dashboard repair kit, that was like a soldering iron, but the bottom was round and flat, about the size of a nickel. I wonder if it would get hot enough if I rubbed that on to of the chip...
first of all you would have to see if it gets hot enough to melt solder if it doesn't then no way it would work. I hope that ebay guy gets back to us. there is a great need for this kind of repair with this tv. if he can do it for around 45 dollars with shipping it would be a big savings over getting a new digital board.
The part I don't understand is why the non-digital inputs are also scrambled if this is a digital board issue....does this chip control those as well? THe XBOX guys says it's extra to reball microprocessors...I wonder how the DNIe chip ranks (how many pins does it have?).
121 - 140 of 293 Posts
- Status
- Not open for further replies.
Home Theater Forum and Systems
A forum community dedicated to home theater owners and enthusiasts. Come join the discussion about home audio/video, home theaters, troubleshooting, projects, DIY’s, product reviews and more!
Full Forum Listing
Top Contributors this Month
View All
RobKnapp
12 Replies
briannarichardson2
5 Replies
Da Wiz
4 Replies
Recommended Communities
