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HLR6167WAX/XAA Digital board problems

181711 Views 292 Replies 42 Participants Last post by  lcaillo
This set started having problems with tiling when cold, going green with patterns of lines, and other patterns of distorted images. It would clear up when run for a couple of hours. At the time, the digital board was on backorder, and in order to get the client up and running, I pulled the digital board from my personal set and installed it. This worked, assuring me that the digital board was the problem. I transferred the bad board to my set, and it had the same issues. After using it a while longer, it began having other symptoms, including locking up with no pix and turning off. Eventually, the set would start the lamp, never have any video nor any sound, then shut down after about a minute. It remained that way for a couple of months while I waited on a board.

Along the way, I have heard from a couple of sites, including Jason1976 here, that the problem may be connections on the DNIE chip on the digital board, near the DVI connector at the back side of the board. Apparently people were having success applying pressure to this chip. It is a BGA type (Ball Grid Array) that has pins underneath that contact points on the board. This is becoming common with high density ICs where external pin connections require larger size chips, tighter spacing, and geometries that are not efficient for the design of the chip. There are good reasons to use BGA, but they can be difficult to solder properly. Apparently, Samsung has had some issues with this chip.

One solution is to try to re-flow the slder. I don't suggest this for anyone without the right equipment. It is very easy to heat the wrong parts or overheat the chip, board, or related parts.

So I decided to experiment. I received the new board that had been on backorder, but figured I would play with the bad one as an experiment. The board is encased in a metal housing with holes. I looked in my shop for something that might fit between the chip and housing to put some pressure on the chip. I found a small bolt that happened to be just a litte too long to fit between the chip and the metal housing above it. I fitted it in, then pushed the edges of the housing down to where I could put the screws holding it all together back in. There was significant tension on the bolt, with the larger hex head end standing on the chip and the tip of the screw fitting against the metal housing (bolt standing on its head on top of the chip). It took a little pressure to get the screws back in, which was good, as it used the housing like a large spring pushing down on the bolt, which put a great deal of pressure on the chip. Simple solution if this is the problem.

The result is that the set fired up the first time and has run fine since. I don't know how long it will work, but I will run it and see. I have the other board, if anyone needs one. Keeping it will cost me an extra $50 on top of its cost, as it does have a core value and we normally send them back for credit. It will be worth it to have a new board on hand if my solution fails, or if another client needs one.

The part number for the digital board for this set is BP94-02084A. This is for the HLR6167WAX/XAA, L64C chassis type. You need to verify all of the suffixes on the service model and the chassis number to get the right board for Samsung sets, particularly these. There were many production changes and versions of these sets and some differences in the boards. Some even reportedly need to have the analog and digital boards changed together for some reason, but this one does not.
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I am guessing it has over 200 pins. what happens is this is the chip that send the video to the dmd board. the antalog board hooks to the digital board. people had have luck putting pressure on the chip but after so long the issue comes back.
Add me to the tried and failed hacker list. I first replaced the bulb. I could see that the light was coming on from behind but no pic. That's when I googled up this thread and got all excited. BTW, the old bulb was broken when I removed it so at least I didn't buy something I didn't need. Its over 3 years old. I have the 50" model with the digital board that is listed so many times in this thread as a potential problem. After installing the pressure fix I now get a picture (HDMI input) for 5-10 seconds, it then freezes then shuts down. It will restart automatically in just a few seconds. The on/off switch has no effects. I had to unplug the set (ugh) to shut it down. One thing worth noteing is that I used a tuner cleaner aresol on the back of the digital board at the DNI chip connections. Maybe this was not a good idea. I'm going to "lick my calve over" as we say in the south and try to get it going while I'm waiting on a new board. The other option is to remove the back cover, take the set to the front yard, lay it on its face and plant flowers in it. My thanks to all those who have posted here.
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I"m going to try this guy out. This is what he said:

I said:
Dear jdelectronone,

I have a digital board for a Samsung DLP 50" TV. I think the problem is the DNIe chip which may need to be reseated. I tried the "candle tin and alcohol" trick but it did not get hot enough to melt the solder under the chip. Would you perform this service on this board? Thanks.

- corepuncher

He responded:
You can send it to us, we would charge $25.00 and return shipping . Please include your contact information and a general description of what needs to be done and what you have done . Thank You !
- jdelectronone
I received kind of the same email back from him. "

Yes we do this for $25.00 and return shipping. Just include your contact info and general desciption of the problem and what you need done .
Thank You !


- jdelectronone "

I went ahead and ask him for contact info. but then i saw his address in the listing

JD ELECTRONICS
203 W MAIN
OWOSSO MI 48867

but I would still like to have a phone number in case of issues. so i did a search online and found this info.

http://jdelectronicsinc.com/

[email protected]

203 W Main St
Owosso, MI 48867-2913
(989) 729-6381
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I am unclear whether he will simply reflow the solder or actually re-ball it? Also, I wonder if there are any other chips on that board that need to be overhauled? Watch us get the DNIe chip fixed, and it still does not work! :eek:
I am guessing he is just going to reflow it. you could call and ask the price to have it reballed. I beleave thats the only chip on the board that uses the BGA chip. and they are known to have issues with solder. looks as if he has the right stuff to reflow the solder. I am guessing your tv should work great after he reflows the solder.

the only issue is he doesn't have a tv there to test the boards to make sure they are working. but if he reflows it and it's still not working I am sure he will take it back and ether reball it or reflow it again. since he is offering a 90 day warranty on the xbox 360's

I am guessing he will reflow anything you need reflowed. you just have to email him or call him for a price. If you have good luck with him let us know.
I wonder why the alcohol method hasn't worked for you guys. My HLR5667WX/XAA has been working good so far for almost 2 weeks now and hopefully much longer. Instead of a candle tin, I used a bottle cap from a Bertolli Olive Oil bottle and it fit on the chip just right. Make sure you use high % alcohol also. 70% worked for me but I read that 91% burns hotter since less energy is spent burning off water water. The alcohol can burn anywhere from 600ºC-900ºC which I think should be enough to heat the metal bottle cap to 300º (the temperature needed to reflow solder as mentioned in one of the videos).
Alcohol burning can be over 1000 degrees but that is at the tip of the flame. At the container it is probably half that or lower, and the heat transfer to the chip is not very efficient. Refow machines use directed hot air or infrared heaters to get the chip hot enough, evenly.
I still think it's worth playing that guy in MI to reflow them for 25 dollars plus shipping.

I just thought of something with my test with the tea light candel that didn't work. the tea lights are not all level on the bottom. they have the 4 little humps that keep it from staying flat. maybe thats why it didn't work. but I still think It would be better if it was done by someone with a machine to do it.
Do we have a link for that service and do we know what kind of equipment he uses? It may be worth a sticky.
I live in MI and have been angry about this problem for a while. When I first found this thread a couple of months ago, there weren't that many posts and much new information has surfaced since then. I had to buy a new TV at the time because we could not be without one for a long time. I still have the Samsung sitting on the floor in my living room, waiting for a fix... Like the way people want to put themselves into suspended animation, so a few hundred years later, when there is a cure for their ailment, they can be fixed. :)

I will have to look into this guy that is here in MI also. Shipping would not be too much, since I am in the same state... And it would be a of a lot cheaper and easier than replacing the entire board, where carrying the settings completely over is a real concern for me. It also used to be that the boards were on backorder, and took forever to get -- sounds like maybe that part has improved?
I live in MI and have been angry about this problem for a while. When I first found this thread a couple of months ago, there weren't that many posts and much new information has surfaced since then. I had to buy a new TV at the time because we could not be without one for a long time. I still have the Samsung sitting on the floor in my living room, waiting for a fix... Like the way people want to put themselves into suspended animation, so a few hundred years later, when there is a cure for their ailment, they can be fixed. :)

I will have to look into this guy that is here in MI also. Shipping would not be too much, since I am in the same state... And it would be a of a lot cheaper and easier than replacing the entire board, where carrying the settings completely over is a real concern for me. It also used to be that the boards were on backorder, and took forever to get -- sounds like maybe that part has improved?
try the guy that is in your state. to bad he isn't close enough for you to drive it to him. you could of maybe had it done same day. let us know how it goes and how it works.
Do we have a link for that service and do we know what kind of equipment he uses? It may be worth a sticky.
from what he told me he is using the stuff the has in the photos in his ebay listing. looks like he has the equipment to do it right.
Yeah Jason posted a link: http://jdelectronicsinc.com/

I wonder...if we could get a discount or a re-balling for that same price if we told him up front we could send him a lot of business.

Anyway, I'm going to try him. I just don't know if I should get it reflowed, or pay to have the chip totally reballed?
Yeah Jason posted a link: http://jdelectronicsinc.com/

I wonder...if we could get a discount or a re-balling for that same price if we told him up front we could send him a lot of business.

Anyway, I'm going to try him. I just don't know if I should get it reflowed, or pay to have the chip totally reballed?
His web page talks about the xbox 360 since they are known to have the same kind of solder issues. all of my brothers kids had to have their xbox repaired for this issue but they were all under warranty from microsoft. that makes 4 xbox 360 with this issue. in one family. microsoft extened the warranty for this issue to 3 years. if you look at his ebay feedback he has a lot of good feedback.
Yeah Jason posted a link: http://jdelectronicsinc.com/

I wonder...if we could get a discount or a re-balling for that same price if we told him up front we could send him a lot of business.

Anyway, I'm going to try him. I just don't know if I should get it reflowed, or pay to have the chip totally reballed?
How much does he charge?
he said 25 dollars plus he charges for return shipping. I am not sure if you include a return shipping lable then I am guessing it would just be the flat 25 dollars.
I asked him about reball. He said that reflow takes care of most of the problems he's seen, rarely reball...but it costs $85.00 if you need to do it. So, 25.00 to reflow, 85.00 to reball, 10.00 shipping. Will send in my board tomorrow, and report back once I get it back.
I think that the price is very reasonable.
Hello all,

Put me in the camp that ordered a new digital board and thus far has fixed my problem. I had tried the pressure trick with little success, though one day the set started working again and did so for a few days. I was concerned about unintended consequences with the reflowing trick so did not try it. The new board was installed only last week but viewing has been flawless thus far.

I also want to say thanks to everyone for their participation in the forums. Sad to say, but forums are often the only source for solutions to problems. And I'm talking not just TVs but also software, etc. So again, thanks to all for your participation, and thank goodness for sites that hosts such forums.

Butch
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