I would guess ether the color wheel or balast.
HLS4266 Problems
I have had this set for 3 years.
3 weeks ago, the picture suddenly got bad in that the colors were not overlayed correctly. I turned the set off and it would not turn back on. After trying for several minutes, the set would eventually stop trying and light the 3 LEDs on the front.
Reading the manual indicated that means that the bulb needs to be replaced. I purchased a new bulb and housing (verified correct part number) and installed it.
The set tried to turn the bulb on, failed and tried again. It succeeded in firing the bulb and the set came on. The picture was perfect.
After a few hours, the set made some sort of sound, and everything powered off. Trying to restart the set resulted in it trying to fire and eventually settling on the blinking 3 LEDs.
I contacted the vendor who I bought the bulb from and returned it. Today they informed me that the bulb tested perfectly and that something else was wrong.
Any ideas?
Thanks, John
3 weeks ago, the picture suddenly got bad in that the colors were not overlayed correctly. I turned the set off and it would not turn back on. After trying for several minutes, the set would eventually stop trying and light the 3 LEDs on the front.
Reading the manual indicated that means that the bulb needs to be replaced. I purchased a new bulb and housing (verified correct part number) and installed it.
The set tried to turn the bulb on, failed and tried again. It succeeded in firing the bulb and the set came on. The picture was perfect.
After a few hours, the set made some sort of sound, and everything powered off. Trying to restart the set resulted in it trying to fire and eventually settling on the blinking 3 LEDs.
I contacted the vendor who I bought the bulb from and returned it. Today they informed me that the bulb tested perfectly and that something else was wrong.
Any ideas?
Thanks, John
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
Well this sucks.
I replaced the ballast almost 2 weeks ago and everything worked great until today.
Same thing happened. Watching the TV, suddenly it goes off and will not turn on again. 3 LEDs blinking.
So this thing has a new bulb AND a new ballast.
Any ideas? I am ready to take it to the landfill.
J
I replaced the ballast almost 2 weeks ago and everything worked great until today.
Same thing happened. Watching the TV, suddenly it goes off and will not turn on again. 3 LEDs blinking.
So this thing has a new bulb AND a new ballast.
Any ideas? I am ready to take it to the landfill.
J
Where did you buy the lamp and where did you get the ballast? Have you looked for swollen caps in the power supply?
I got the lamp from Discount Merchant and the ballast from another online retailer (receipt at home).
I have not looked for swolen caps. Where do I look?
I did not reset the bulb life counter. Do I need to do that too?
I have not looked for swolen caps. Where do I look?
I did not reset the bulb life counter. Do I need to do that too?
Was the ballast new or used, and was it the right one for that lamp? You have to be careful with some combinations in samsung sets.
The ballast was new. I determined that it was the correct ballast on the web. The bulb was also the correct one for my set.
How did you determine that they were correct and matched? Did the information come from Samsung directly?
Not Samsung directly, but I found the part number on Samsung authorized part stores (I cross referenced it from several sites) and then searched on the part number to find stock.
Which sources did you use? Please provide some specific information. If you want help, be specific. Samsung has been notorious for changing production in these sets and there were several lamp/ballast combinations used, some which are not compatible.
Give the entire service model number with all suffixes, the part number for the lamp specifiec on the set, the same for the ballast if it is present, the chassis version number, the part numbers and suppliers that you used, and any other information that you can think of that you used in the process. I will be happy to try to sort out what you have, but I cannot keep probing for information.
Give the entire service model number with all suffixes, the part number for the lamp specifiec on the set, the same for the ballast if it is present, the chassis version number, the part numbers and suppliers that you used, and any other information that you can think of that you used in the process. I will be happy to try to sort out what you have, but I cannot keep probing for information.
I am sorry. I am not trying to be evasive. I tried to post a link before and it told me I did not have enough posts...Which sources did you use? Please provide some specific information. If you want help, be specific. Samsung has been notorious for changing production in these sets and there were several lamp/ballast combinations used, some which are not compatible.
Give the entire service model number with all suffixes, the part number for the lamp specifiec on the set, the same for the ballast if it is present, the chassis version number, the part numbers and suppliers that you used, and any other information that you can think of that you used in the process. I will be happy to try to sort out what you have, but I cannot keep probing for information.
The model of my set is HLS4266/XAA
The lamp part number is BP96-01472A. I bought it from www.discount-merchant.com. I remember it because it has a banner add on another forum (I can list the name, but not sure if that would violate the user agreement here).
The ballast model is BP47-00037A which has an alternate part number of BP47-00033A. As I said, I don't remember the merchant and will post the information when I get home.
Summary of the whole chain of events...
I was watching the set with my son. Suddenly the color went strange. Almost like the old projection TV's where you needed to line up the guns. I saw that and turned the set off. It would not power back on. After a period of trying the 3 LEDs would blink.
I looked in the manual and it suggested replacing the bulb. I got online with my model number and determined the bulb part number and then searched for it. I found it at Discount Merchant and purchased it. When it arrived, I replaced it, keeping the old bulb and housing.
After 4 (or so) hours, the TV turned itself off and would not turn on again. It sounded like it was trying to fire the bulb but failed and eventually got to 3 blinking LEDs. I contacted Discount Merchant and they had me return the bulb under warranty. It tested NTF and was declared a working bulb so they returned it to me again.
I posted this problem on this site and one other site and determined that I needed to try the ballast. The other suggestion was that the color wheel was bad, but I did not hear a whiring sound, but a clicking sound so I went with the ballast.
I followed step by step instructions with pictures from another forum site and replaced the ballast. Upon visual inspections, the two ballasts looked identical. After replacing the ballast I reinstalled the old bulb (key info that is different from above. The new bulb is not in the set right now) and the set worked from December 18 until today when my wife was watching it. It powered off and would not power back on, just ending with 3 blinking lights.
I contacted a Samsung repair shop in town and the guy suggested that the color wheel was bad and was causing the set to shut off. He will look at it tomorrow and give me an estimate of the repair cost. Unfortunately the estimate is a service call and cost $65 so I am not sure I want to keep throwing money into this set.
That is the best recollection I have right now. Thank you for your time and help. John
There is no problem with posting the names of other forums or of vendors. As long as your post are factual and do not violate our rules, more information is better.
If you do not hear the color wheel come up to speed, the lamp will not start. The ight engine does not provide a lamp enable signal until the color wheel is spinning. You need to determine if it is indeed spinning or not. The sound is very distinct and will sound like the speed increases then backs off slightly then speeds up again as the servo takes control. If not, then you may have a color wheel problem.
If you do not hear the color wheel come up to speed, the lamp will not start. The ight engine does not provide a lamp enable signal until the color wheel is spinning. You need to determine if it is indeed spinning or not. The sound is very distinct and will sound like the speed increases then backs off slightly then speeds up again as the servo takes control. If not, then you may have a color wheel problem.
Thanks.
I got a lot of info from http://www.fixyourdlp.com/ and the diagnostic steps I followed and the step by step ballast instructions are http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/samsung/bp47-00033a.php
I will listen for the color wheel and post tonight that info along with the company I bought the ballast from.
John
I got a lot of info from http://www.fixyourdlp.com/ and the diagnostic steps I followed and the step by step ballast instructions are http://guides.fixyourdlp.com/samsung/bp47-00033a.php
I will listen for the color wheel and post tonight that info along with the company I bought the ballast from.
John
That site has posts from non-techs as well as techs. Some of the information there is very much wrong, some simply lacks the context to make it useful. You can count on what you get here as being correct if it comes from me. I check the posts by others carefully to try to catch mis-information or add context that make it make sense.
There is much bad advice out there with respect to DIY repair. There are far too many assumptions made and far too little information for most of it to be useful. When you come here, you will find that I may seem demanding and intolerant, but it is necessary to maintain a useful and reliable site. The moderators and admins here work very hard to keep the bar high.
There is much bad advice out there with respect to DIY repair. There are far too many assumptions made and far too little information for most of it to be useful. When you come here, you will find that I may seem demanding and intolerant, but it is necessary to maintain a useful and reliable site. The moderators and admins here work very hard to keep the bar high.
OK, so I tried it out tonight.
I can hear the color wheel start up. I get the tone that indicates the lamp is starting up but the picture never shows up. I can hear the color wheel going and some other tones (hard to explain... computer sounds).
I swaped lamps again and no change. So it currently has the new bulb and the new ballast.
I can hear the color wheel start up. I get the tone that indicates the lamp is starting up but the picture never shows up. I can hear the color wheel going and some other tones (hard to explain... computer sounds).
I swaped lamps again and no change. So it currently has the new bulb and the new ballast.
I would find out if your ballast has a warranty. I am guessing the new part went bad since your lamp never comes on. It also could be a bad DMD board but I am guessing it's your new part. Like the one time I bought a new fuel pump from the auto parts store and it was a bad part that only lasted a week. Plus I dont think It's a new part you bought since they don't make your model anymore. I am guessing It's a refurbished part. If they only replaced the parts that were bad they may of missed another failing part that tested good.OK, so I tried it out tonight.
I can hear the color wheel start up. I get the tone that indicates the lamp is starting up but the picture never shows up. I can hear the color wheel going and some other tones (hard to explain... computer sounds).
I swaped lamps again and no change. So it currently has the new bulb and the new ballast.
Does the lamp actually start up?
I assume no because no picture shows up and eventually the 3 LEDs blink.Does the lamp actually start up?
I had a similar problem on my hls5086w 3 blinking leds lamp not lit and could hear the wheel spin, I removed the color wheel and the wheel would spin with little effort by hand, had a look at the Hall effect sensor (wheel RPM sensor) which is attached to the color wheel housing and found the wire insulation had melted back and the wire was exposed and frayed and some strands were shorted. Probable cause heat from the lamp. Replacing color wheel with housing fixed the problem.
Another update.
I took the TV in for a diagnosis and estimate. The diagnosis came back that the TV needs a new color wheel. The estimate is $320.
At this point I am not going to put another $320 into this TV. I can buy another 42" 1080p LCD for $600 so why keep pouring $ into this one.
My plan is to retrieve the TV and try to replace the color wheel myself. I have checked www.samsungparts.com and when I put my model number I get this part number BP96-01579A. I can buy one on eBay for $49 new, shipped. I can then try to replace it myself.
I have come to this conclusion because I have replaced 2 of the 4 parts that could cause this problem and it has not resolved it. The service shop thinks it is the 3rd, but what confidence can I have?
Any suggestions?
Thanks, John
I took the TV in for a diagnosis and estimate. The diagnosis came back that the TV needs a new color wheel. The estimate is $320.
At this point I am not going to put another $320 into this TV. I can buy another 42" 1080p LCD for $600 so why keep pouring $ into this one.
My plan is to retrieve the TV and try to replace the color wheel myself. I have checked www.samsungparts.com and when I put my model number I get this part number BP96-01579A. I can buy one on eBay for $49 new, shipped. I can then try to replace it myself.
I have come to this conclusion because I have replaced 2 of the 4 parts that could cause this problem and it has not resolved it. The service shop thinks it is the 3rd, but what confidence can I have?
Any suggestions?
Thanks, John
1 - 20 of 26 Posts
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