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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have recently been experiencing similar shutdown issues with my HLS6187W I purchased at the beginning of 2007. They started about a week after a power outage. My components are plugged into a surge protector (without a UPS) but I was not using the cable protector at the time. I have replaced the lamp and attempted all of the “safe” troubleshoots: grounded myself and carefully vacuumed the components I could reach, reseated the lamp, made sure the blue switch was down, left the TV unplugged for over 24 hours, performed a service menu factory reset, performed a hard restart, invoked my local shaman, etc.

I have noticed that it doesn’t always behave in the same way after I turn it on and it shuts itself of in 15 to 30 to 45 to 60 minutes. Sometimes when I fire it up and it turns off, I will just get a blank screen, lamp on, DMD fan on, no flashing lights. Typically when it shuts down I hear the ballast whine (I never noticed this sound when the TV was working properly), the screen goes blank, the lamp turns off, the DMD fan turns off and the 3 flashing lights do their thing. The colorwheel seems to spin down and up normally. I cannot tell if the lamp fan is working properly but I get no check fan #2 messages. Occasionally I will hear something that sounds like a spinning component struggling/rubbing a bit but this is not consistent (the DMD fan appears to be working perfectly). I also will see the screen almost indiscernibly brighten/flash intermittently, typically a few minutes before it shuts down. I’ve also been experiencing a loud *BBZZZRRRAAPPP* sound. This usually happens within minutes of turning the set on and seems to coincide with my Marantz receiver feeding the cable signal to the TV. I haven’t checked to see if this noise happens with my PS3 feed, but it also switches via HDMI through my receiver (the TV has shut down when I am using the PS3).

I’m wondering if the power outage could have wreaked all this havoc or if it is just a coincidence. Did lack of cooling following the outage damage multiple components? Why would a colorwheel issue shut down the TV after 60 minutes? Is my replacement lamp faulty? I’ve put the old lamp back in (7k+ hours) and both the old and new have the same effect). I’ve been reading so many posts with similar issues that my head is swimming. To me it seems like it would have to be an overheating issue because it takes a while for the TV to shut down. During troubleshooting I have been cooling the unit down with an external fan after it shuts down.

I just recently removed the lamp, fired up the TV and noticed the ballast board light/whine as wkmaylish had described (which is what led me to this thread). When I did this the green lamp light flashed. I have not pulled the board to see if it has a swollen cap. I’m seriously considering ordering a new TV but I would like to be able to fix this if it doesn’t end up being too cost prohibitive. I’m not sure whether I trust LCD or plasma technology just yet : ) I’m thinking my best bet at this point is to pull the ballast board, inspect it and check the lamp fan, but it would be nice to have some experts weigh in. I suppose this could also be a power supply issue. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
 

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Your post was moved to a discrete thread to maintain forum organization. The thread that you had posted in was not even discussing the same model. It is always best to start a new thread for a new problem.

It is unlikely that a power outage has anything to do with your problems. Other than looking for swollen caps, I am not sure what pulling the ballast will do for you. When the set shuts of, are you getting any indication on the LEDs on the front?
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
My apologies Icaillo. Thank you for setting me up in the appropriate section and thanks for the quick response.

I was thinking that removing the ballast would allow me to locate and observe the lamp fan. I was planning on downloading the service manual before I started any component removal.

When the set shuts off I am getting the 3 blinking lights and I also experience a whine from the ballast. This is not something I hear when I shut it down manually. Is it possible that when the lamp heats up, the gap widens enough between the lamp and ballast to shut down the lamp?

Ocassionally, the screen will go blank, but the lamp and DMD fan stay on (with no lights on the front). The set will either stay in this state or eventually it will shutdown as stated above. This leads me to believe that it may be a different issue. If the lamp is still on shouldn't I be receiving a picture on the screen?
 

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If you get the 3 LEDs flashing when it shuts down the first thing to try is another lamp. The other condition with no pix and the lamp lit sounds like what mine did with a bad digital board. A bad fan will normally give you a fan error.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Thanks again for the follow up. I have replaced the lamp with an identical model, so I'm pretty sure this is not the issue.

Also, I turned it on last night and there was a steady buzzing for 15 minutes (picture looked great) and the screen turned off, no lights, DMD fan running for about 30 seconds until I heard a click, the ballast whine, the 3 lights flash and the fan turn off.

I have a couple of questions before I turn the repair over to a local shop that was highly recommended by a buddy of mine.

From your experience is a steady buzzing, grinding or whining noise always mechanical or can it be electrical (related to the power supply, a capacitor or circuit board)?

I found a replacement for the DMD board online--part #BP94-02269A (it also lists BP41-00273B) for $107. This is cheaper than anywhere else (it usually lists for around $300). Should I be suspicious of this low price and what would be the difference between the 2 part numbers if they can be used interchangeably?

I figured it would be nice to save a little dough on parts if I am going to be paying for labor (although replacing the DMD board seems like a fairly easy replacement).

Thank you,
Jeff
 

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Thanks again for the follow up. I have replaced the lamp with an identical model, so I'm pretty sure this is not the issue.

Also, I turned it on last night and there was a steady buzzing for 15 minutes (picture looked great) and the screen turned off, no lights, DMD fan running for about 30 seconds until I heard a click, the ballast whine, the 3 lights flash and the fan turn off.

I have a couple of questions before I turn the repair over to a local shop that was highly recommended by a buddy of mine.

From your experience is a steady buzzing, grinding or whining noise always mechanical or can it be electrical (related to the power supply, a capacitor or circuit board)?

I found a replacement for the DMD board online--part #BP94-02269A (it also lists BP41-00273B) for $107. This is cheaper than anywhere else (it usually lists for around $300). Should I be suspicious of this low price and what would be the difference between the 2 part numbers if they can be used interchangeably?

I figured it would be nice to save a little dough on parts if I am going to be paying for labor (although replacing the DMD board seems like a fairly easy replacement).

Thank you,
Jeff
Buzzing can be either. It is something that requires hearing it and being there to track down. I am always skeptical of any outliers in price. If you would be more specific about the vendor I can give my opinion if I have any experience with them. Why do you suspect a DMD board?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
I originally thought this was a ballast issue, but your previous response "...no pix and the lamp lit sounds like what mine did with a bad digital board..." leads me to believe the DMD board may be an issue (unless we're talking about something completely different : ).

Unfortunately I am not allowed to post links yet so I cannot give you the site where I found the replacement DMD (BP94-02269A).

From what I understand after reading a master tech post on a different site, the DMD and ballast "communicate" with each other when the TV is powered on:

1. If the colorwheel and temp sensor are okay, the DMD sends a signal to ignite the ballast which turns on the lamp.

2. If the lamp lights properly, the ballast then sends a signal to the DMD to send video to the screen. If the DMD does not receive a signal from the ballast then the TV will shut down with 3 blinking lights.

If the boot sequence above is correct, it seems to me that the ballast may be having issues maintaining proper voltage, which is signaling the DMD to cut video and then ultimately power down the TV. The one thing that throws this theory into question is the fact that the ballast is whining (as if attempting to fire the lamp), when the TV shuts down and gives the 3 blinking lights indication.

If a faulty DMD is cutting the video, would this necessarily cause the ballast to shut off the lamp, which in turn tells the DMD to shut down the TV? I'm just wondering if the ballast whine is a dead giveaway to an expert like you or if it is incidental to an abnormal shutdown?

As I've mentioned before, I am also experiencing a loud, short "electrical" buzz when the TV starts up and receives the video signal input (DMD issue giveaway?). I apologize for another lengthy post as I'm sure you sift through tons of these.
 

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The DMD board is the one on the light engine that interfaces with the DMD chip. The digital board is one of the two large boards on the left looking at the set from the rear.

You don't have to post links to name the vendor. You can also use the post padding threads to increase your post count.

The signaling from the ballast only tells the system that current is flowing. If you hear a whine from the ballast it is likely the firing of the high voltage pulses to start the arc, or perhaps a noisy fan if it is sustained. Not sure what the buzz you are describing related to video might be. Evaluating such things is where experience and having the set in front of you is necessary.
 
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