say my tatse is as deep as possible. I am adamant that I do NOT do sealed. If I built an LLT, I am under the impression that if I tuned super low, the sub will always be at least as good as sealed up above port help.... so why not at least go LLT, if not tuning to the lowest expected music frequency.It varies greatly by personal taste and sheer randomness of people but a lot of music subs are sealed with a QTC of around 7 for moderately deep response, low group delay and a shallow roll off.
Something like that would be fine for most music, if you really want to rock out to some techno or rap or want really loud low bass a ported low tuned build may be preferable.
A lot of music dosn't have content below 40Hz. The low e on an electric bass is around 41Hz. Classical instruments can reach into the upper 20s and the pipe organ and synthesizer can reach into the mid teens.
My current sub is flat in room to about 21Hz and it does well even on pipe organ music. Pick a tuning based on what you listen to.
assuming space is not a factorIn this particular scenario the only reason to build a smaller enclosure for one would either be, if you wanted one in a smaller enclosure for space reasons, or if you wanted to tune the other enclosure higher for increased spl in a higher frequency range but with those subs that would probably just be overkill in the upper bass region.
this is what I am looking to hear. I would like to someday do an SLLT and maybe tune to 10Hz, but, if I want really loud and strong 40Hz-80Hz as well, how many drivers will I need to match a smaller 40Hz tune alignment?Most sub builds here are for HT, I use my HT subs for music as well and love the sound of them. I have a pair of IXL-18's in 12 cu. ft. tuned to 16 hz and a pair of Atlas 15's in 10 cu. ft. tuned to 18 hz. I listen mostly to pop/rock and find the bass rich and effortless. It's just my personal preference.
Let's find out.So pretty much all build logs here are HT... nothing for just music... yet everyone is satisfied with their music output as well?
you made my night! Thank you Mike!
thanks for your input... I think the whole idea to tuning higher for music is to get a bigger hump in the 30's, but I am willing to sacrifice it to reach deeper when it is there. I just over build using more cone area so I can still get massive 30's, but when it drops below that, it just gets even betterIf I had $1000 to spend on subs I'd try an IB using like 6 Exodus Audio DPL-15s or something, because I want to see what all the fuss is about when it comes to IB, its supposed to be awesome.
And this is all for music, if I wanted something to perform some HT duty I'd just build the biggest baddes LLT that my budget would accomodate.
I like the way you put it... that has been my argument for years on tuning low in-carActually yeah. When I first learned about the LLT I assumed it was a bloated flappy ht sub that would not be good for music. But the more I've read and learned it seems that unless you just don't need low end extension or can't afford a large box there is no reason not to use a LLT, (or EBS alignment as it is usually called in smaller speakers) for woofers because above the tuning frequency they act just like sealed drivers in terms of response and excursion, they just play much lower than the alternative. Near and at tuning there is some group delay and port noise but those are frequencies that you simply otherwise would not have had, so it is probably a compromise worth making. So there really doesn't seem to be any reason not to build one of these, unless you just want something different for the sake of different, or can't get a fridge sized box past the wife.