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Horn Sub Input Please - Build In Progress!

73368 Views 260 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  iconrl
I am in the process of layout/design of my new theater room. I am going to be using PI 4 Speakers for LCR, and PI 1 Speakers for Surrounds. I designed a set of OD Horn Speakers to compliment the LCR and surround speakers as flanking subs to tame room modes. So the frequency range is 50-200hz

Since this is my 1st attempt at Hornresp and Sketchup, I am looking for input on my design and folding before proceeding further. So there will be 7 total of these flanking subs the front 3 will be under the PI 4's and the 4rears will be under the surrounds in a column configuration. The will be driven with 20 watts RMS.

I will be using a miniDSP 10x10hd, and the plan is to cross the flanking subs, with there respective mains, as well as matrix the LFE channel to theses subs as well for frequencies above 50hz, and then use the Low LFE subs for everything under 50-60hz.

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That is a very generous offer. I will let you know.

Could these also be used for my flanking subs 50-60hz fc in around 150l or so or would the 8" be better?

Personally here is the way I would reason it out.

The cost is similar and the performance with a twelve versus and eight is three to one on the surface of the drivers in a comparison.

Buying more of one type of driver will get you a better price to.

So that is something else to consider.
Agreed the 12 is better but in combination with the 2 ulf subs I need to fit three flanking subs. Can these be scaled down to under 150l for a fc of 60hz?


This is the four boxes simmed in 1 Pi.

That is pretty much what you will get if you measure in your room.

With very modest room gain this setup will be much more than flat. It will be in the unobtainium league.

Nice thing to is that in the dimensions you gave me all of the ULF horns will be close enough together that the mouths will couple together acting as one large horn mouth.

Fun in the sun.

I have just a few recordings that would break china in that setup!
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Yes, in fact you should do the subs to 50 hertz.

The greatest areas of bang and slam in music are 64 to 120 hertz, be it rock, movies or even enormous pipe organs that is the band where the biggest transients are found.

Give this a little whirl.

Dead flat in multiples of four.

Wavelength of sound at 60 hertz is seventeen feet.

So if the boxes are within that distance from each other they will sum.

Let the games begin.

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Games for sure....That would be some insane output with SEVEN sets of those in the room, and yes all within 17ft of each other. Maybe we should scale that back to one driver be flanking sub......or not. ummm that would total 20 12" drivers in the room, wonder what kind of discount PE will give on that. HA!
On second thought, know anyone that makes a 1/2 watt amp?
Picky picky.

Some people are so hard to please. First they want efficiency and then I give it to them. THen they don't want efficiency!

Make ups my Mind!

As you wish:

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Ha. Thanks I will give that a whirl and let you know. The dual driver would be awesome for 30 ft seating distance...but not sure about 10 lol.

Question though I never modeled or folded with throat area/volume. Just wondering how to interpret those numbers.

Question though I never modeled or folded with throat area/volume. Just wondering how to interpret those numbers?
Well tis the secret in the sauce my friend.

When you do midrange horns you have to get even more finely balanced.

OK how to interpret the results.

I did the same manifold on all the horns. A square area 13" x 13" x 1". Lets you set your driver in place and gives you enough room for X-Mechanical. Personally I make a throat mounting plate. That is the 13" square piece with a hole cut out of it to accept the driver from the rear side of the plate. You can use screws if you are looking to save money. Number ten or twelve with a pilot hole the size of the screww shaft less the threads will help you get a good tight fit.

Again if you are on a budget. I have built many boxes out of OSB makes for a very strong box if you use the speaker builders secret weapon.

So you are doing offset horns. I designed the midbass so that the mouth could be done in a 15 inch wide enclosure. So if you do it with 1/2" material you are laughing.

The compression chamber is a part of the horn. You make the 13" x 13" x 1" box and cut out a hole the size of the S1 on this, and from here you start your horn. the hole is roughly 4 5/8" square.

Hornresp will give you inches on any hi-lighted number if you press F-6.
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Perfect. Thank you. I will get these folded up within the next week and let you know!
Just one thing to ask.

Please share this.

My guess is that alot of people are looking at this thread. You may have started a monster!
Yeah it is a possibility. Find out once its built, and my house falls down.
When I fold the riser sub can both drivers be in the same rear chamber with the volume doubled. Or would it be best to have them in their own chamber??
A half watt amp could be a current boosted op amp.

Or a really loud MP3 player.

Or if you are really determined yell into the wires at one end and hope for the best:D
Single enclosures sir. You want all of them to have their own spring. The rear enclosure keeps the system efficient. It has been sized with enough care that it should behave itself.
Note taken no problem they will be in there own.
Quick question how come the ULF subs where modeled as ND and not OD alignment?
Quick answer. Because I chose to.

Nd is a field where you can change the number and position of the driver.

Switching the simulation to OD everything looks like it has gone down the toilet.

But worry not.

The way things work in real life on the low end only are not as bad as it may seem.

If you are at all worried, the way you make this completely to design is start off the horn with a square profile off of the manifold and expand until you are wide enough to support the height of the riser with the full width of the horn taking up all the space.

Again if these are buried under the riser OSB is plenty good enough. There are pictures on this website of a large scale horn I did out of 7/16" OSB that was strong enough for me to walk all over with no flex at all.

Bracing is your best friend no matter what you use for material.

And the secret weapon of the box builder is PL Premium.

That and a nail gun.
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