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Yes and no.

There should be an open space in between the driver and the opening into the horn. As in a empty space 24.5 mm deep by 1090.32 cm^2. Then off of this empty space you punch your hole into the horn and voila, you get you beginning. This beginning has to be the very start of the horn, it cannot tap it from any other point along the horn path.
 

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You win the golden cookie award.

Any flavor you like. I'll email it to you :D
 

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Discussion Starter #88
ha thats good news, i can follow instructions....lol
Do I have to move it up though 12mm the thickness of the panel?
 

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You are worrying about a half inch path length!

Not a problem. You might even get a 1/4 hertz lower tuning!

Yes sleepy and silly!

I get up early. Work hard and go to bed.
 

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If you put duct take on all those holes around the bends it might work! :D

I just had to do it!

Looks very well thought out.

What are you going to put over the mouths? You could make a grate similar to those used on hardwood floors. Or if you are up on supplies you could get a steel grate.

Because mid movie, with special effects, T-rex and all one of those mouths might just swallow a chair or two! :yikes:

I would pay lots of money to watch that.

:rofl2:
 

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Keep in mind that those graceful curves need only be approximated with angled reflectors. In a bass horn an angled reflector is actually preferred over a curve. you don't want to be reproducing midrange frequencies out of a bass horn, and the flat reflectors help to knock them down acting as a natural filter.

And I complement you on the nice compact fold. Nice to see someone thinking in terms different from what is normally offered. The snail folds do not give a person to much room for proper flare expansion. This type of fold will get you a better sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
Yes agreed on the reflectors. Do you recommend using insulation or sound dampening in the corners and inside the rear chamber?

Hope to get revision 2 drawn up today.

Also thinking again on those flanking subs, I will probably use the dual driver version at the front for the LCR channels and use the single version for the surround channels.

Thought being better transient response and a better match to the sensitivity of the 4pi main speakers
 

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The dual driver configuration can be done with either woofer mounted on both sides of the beginning of the horn. Same as you did for the ULF horn, but on both sides.

As for the Pi speaker keeping up, I'm not so sure. A direct radiator never has the same type of sound.

If you have already purschased the Pi speakers then great. They are pretty good speakers.

If you are going to purchase the Pi's, there are other ways of doing it.

Specifically doing it in a manner that will be much more dynamic.

Depends on your woodworking skills. And the time you have available.
 

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How many channels of your MiniDSP are used in this setup?
 

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DO more complex horns scare you?

No insult intended in the next question.

Do you have the woodworking chops to build cabinets?
 
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