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Discussion Starter #1
So, I played around with the SW proclassic satin extra white. First off, this is the best flowing water based paint I have ever seen. After a couple minutes from being rolled on some sintra boards, it flows out as well as any solvent based paint. It's really that good. Does anyone else get hotspotting with it?
 

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I'm working on a larger, 2ft sample on sintra. My first test was on a smaller piece of canvas. While I can't say it was a hotspot due to the size, but I could move around the room and catch a shine on the surface. Maybe it was the fabric 's weave helping this...that's why I'm making up a larger, smoother panel.
 

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SW ProClassic in satin finish (the flattest finish it comes in) is close to the "tipping point" for hot spotting due to surface gloss. I didn't see any hot spotting when I tested it, but then my PJ isn't situated so that I view the screen at the incident angle where the screen would produce the brightest hot spot.

I also don't know how consistent SW is in their paint finishes from lot to lot so that could be a problem as well.

The best solution if one wants to use SW paints and has a problem with hot spotting with SWPC would be to get a quart of SW Duration in matte finish the same color and then mix them together until the hot spot goes away (or simply just use the Duration to begin with and sacrifice the bit of gain the ProClassic provides). I know SW paints are expensive, but keep in mind that the screen you are making is as good as, or better, than, a commercial screen and still comes in at a fraction of the cost.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
The duration is a good paint, to be sure, but this proclassic is phenomenal. Its probably the best handling paint I have ever used. I wish it came in a lower sheen.
 

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Now you guys got me second guessing myself. I decided to go with the SW unique gray in the satin for my W7000. I still haven't painted yet, but I'm reading more and more about hot spotting with this paint. I'm beginning to think I should just go ahead and mix with the duration matte before I go to the trouble of painting.

My projector is almost dead on with the center of the screen about 13.5 feet away so I think I should just go ahead and mix? As far as the mix goes, Harp mentioned using the same color, but with this projector should I mix with something lighter as I will use the 3d? If so, what would you think as far as color and proportion?

The room is light controlled, but pretty small. The walls are a dark red, but have white trim (I am going to tone the trim down some). The projector lights up the room pretty good. Screen size is 103".

Would appreciate your thoughts on this. By the way, I'm currently using BW which I was happy with, but seeing some grain in the whites with the W7000.

Donnie
 

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Discussion Starter #7
What surface are you painting? I think you might get a hot spot with duration satin in unique gray. Even the duration matte still had a bit of sheen to it.. It definately isn't dead flat.
 

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Yeah, I was thinking the mix with duration matte as mentioned above. The substrate is still up in the air, but I imagine will do the same as I've always done and stretch duck canvas over a frame and spray. I've never had a problem with texture with the duck canvas as it is pretty fine weave and after a couple coats of primer and a light sanding, the surface is smooth.

The thing with the SW pro classic satin, is that it has been recommended for a while and just recently there have been reports of hot spotting. So, that is concerning to me, as I don't want to do this twice. I'm hoping that maybe a 1:1 mix(or whatever) with the duration matte will take care of the issue.

Anyway, I probably won't do anything until after Christmas so I will be watching and seeing if others have issues.

Donnie
 

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Now you guys got me second guessing myself. I decided to go with the SW unique gray in the satin for my W7000. I still haven't painted yet, but I'm reading more and more about hot spotting with this paint. I'm beginning to think I should just go ahead and mix with the duration matte before I go to the trouble of painting.

My projector is almost dead on with the center of the screen about 13.5 feet away so I think I should just go ahead and mix? As far as the mix goes, Harp mentioned using the same color, but with this projector should I mix with something lighter as I will use the 3d? If so, what would you think as far as color and proportion?

The room is light controlled, but pretty small. The walls are a dark red, but have white trim (I am going to tone the trim down some). The projector lights up the room pretty good. Screen size is 103".

Would appreciate your thoughts on this. By the way, I'm currently using BW which I was happy with, but seeing some grain in the whites with the W7000.

Donnie
Were you happy with the image brightness in 3D with your BW™ screen? The answer below assumes not.

Going by the data in the review of the W7000 at projectorcentral I think you are going to have a problem using anything but a white screen while watching 3D. With your screen size and projection distance you are only going to get about 10 fc of image brightness in 3D. With a screen with a gain of 1.0 this would produce 10 fL and is still a bit below the lower end of suggested image brightness (12 fL), but I think it should still be very watchable; but any type of gray screen would drop the brightness even further unless you want to go with a reflectively enhanced mix. Our screen mixes introduce very few negative artifacts during viewing, but people sensitive to them can notice them (although I don't recall anyone seeing any with our Cream&Sugar™ Ultra mix).

In 2D mode your PJ actually requires some form of brightness mitigation as it is too bright (a N8 screen such as SW 'Unique Gray' would work well), but the BenQ 3D glasses only transmit 28% of the light striking them which pretty much necessitates a white screen for your screen size.

The screen I would recommend would be:
For a premixed paint:
2D - an N8 neutral gray.
3D - a white screen.

For a DIY screen mix:
C&S™ Ultra which comes in about N9 and would be a good compromise for both 2D and 3D modes.
 

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I just watched my first 3D movie with my Epson 5020, thought I'd add a few thoughts.

First, PJs should have a second ECO mode now, lowering the power even further. The output requirement differences between 2D and 3D are greater than what's available in many PJs.

I'm hitting my 138" Glidden White screen with 1700 lumens in 3D, and it's just a little dim. How much? I'm not sure, haven't got the whole measuring 3D down yet. I'm guessing I could comfortably use another 600 lumens.

With your screens, you could have plenty of power for 3D with a white screen. A bit too much for 2D. I think you have to decide which is more important to you. I great 3D is most important, go white. Get used to watching super bright 2D, or maybe turn on a light. If 3D will only be an occasional oddity, go with a gray like Glidden Veil.

Basically, what Harp said. :)

If you're worried about the SW hotspotting, go Glidden Diamond 450 Velvet Matte. It'll make your 3D brighter as well...
 

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donosan,

the whole thing with the 3D glasses and the normal 2D mode viewing is natively a little bit compicated per se when you opt for a gray screen. Bottom line is that you have to compromise something in order to gain elsewhere. So, i fully agree with Don and Nak about this matter.

Firstly, i would like to say a few words about your projector since 4 weeks ago i had the opportunity to take real good look at it.

7000 is a very bright projector, and when i say bright, i mean over a 1000 calibrated lumens. That amount of light explains also the grain you saw on the BW screen. If you haven't done a calibration yet, that suggests you are hitting your screen with an enormous amount of light (over 1500 lumens). My mate's screen is a white one with a gain of 1 and a size of 106 inches, so pretty much cover your case (103'' screen).

After calibration, we got something like this:






As you can see in 100 IRE we got 62,23 nits or 18,16 FLs. Well, for some people might be good such amount of light, but for me is a bit too much and with a light controlled room it gets even brighter.

To make the long story short, if it wasn't for the 3D, i would suggest an N7 paint for this projector (to help its weak point aka black levels). But since we are talking 2D and 3D, i would suggest to pick a nice N9 like C&S with a ND2 filter (Hoya makes good ones) for your 2D viewing and take it off anytime you want to see 3D content. This option will work quite well for both ways of viewing...
 

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Okay, thanks for the responses. You've given me a couple options to ponder. I do run the projector in economy mode, but noticed that in 3d mode the projector bumps up to normal mode. I also did a basic calibration of the black/white levels.

I think that 3d will not be a regular thing, but like having the option. I did watch Spiderman with my grandson in 3d and was less than satisfied with the out of box settings on the BW. I didn't want to fiddle with the setting while watching, but went back later and watched some scenes and adjusted brightness/contrast settings and came up with a much better picture.

At this point, I'll think seriously about the C&S which I understand is a simple mix. I also already have an ND2 filter I can try if needed.

Thanks for all the very helpful responses. I'll go see if I can find the C&S formula and check it out!

Donnie
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Just as an aside, I have found a work around for the hotspot issue with proclassic. By mixing some liquitex ultramatte(super loaded thick gel medium made for adding to artists acrylics to flaten the sheen) with floetrol until you get the same consistency as the proclassic. Adding this in small amounts until you get the sheen you want. I was able to add it until I got dead flat without affecting the awesome handling of the proclassic. I might use this to roll over my matte white in the unique gray shade. This is the best non-enhanced rolling paint I've come across. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
And if at all possible, always lay the screen substrate flat for optimal results with this mix. I haven't tested in on a vertical surface. I would tread lightly if painting vertically to avoid sagging and runs.
 

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Okay, thanks for the responses. You've given me a couple options to ponder. I do run the projector in economy mode, but noticed that in 3d mode the projector bumps up to normal mode. I also did a basic calibration of the black/white levels.
Donnie
I dont own a 5020 but I do own an 8700.
I found that for every single input, and mode, and source format, my 8700 had settings for each.

Does the 5020 automatically force Normal for 3d?
 
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