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Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
Have two of these subs. Was wondering if anyone knew of some drivers that would work in these enclosures. I would iike to hear from illka since he seems to be very knowledgeable and i can't send him any pms since I'm new.Thank You
JJ
 

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This looks like a DIY subwoofers type post. Moving the thread.

Would also suggest posting specifics of the enclosure...internal volume (measurements), bracing, port dimensions, available amp power. A budget would be good. Any goals for SPL and/or extension? That sort of thing.

-Brent
 
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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Sorry i don't have any of those numbers for a production sub. Don't know where to find them either. Was just trying to get some help from a very knowledgable forum. Does anyone have any ideas? Not looking to spend alot.
Thanks
JJ
 

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If you've got the sub cabinets then you just need a tape measure for physical dimensions. Without knowing the cabinet volume and tuning, there's no rational way to pick a suitable driver. The other questions don't require any specifics about the Hsu at all, just your own goals and committment to the project. "not a lot" is a relative term. Some on here will drop $300 on an SDX15 and not blink. That exceeds my personal utility value...the most I've spent for a driver is $125, I think.

-Brent
 
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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Sorry thought you were looking for internal volume. Measures 23 1/8 " across and 19 5/8 " high. Most i would want to spend would be around 125 per driver. Appreciate any help.
Thanks
JJ
 

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Sorry thought you were looking for internal volume. Measures 23 1/8 " across and 19 5/8 " high. Most i would want to spend would be around 125 per driver. Appreciate any help.
Thanks
JJ
We do need the internal volume. External dimensions can give us a rough estimate if you know what the wall thickness is. Even for that, you need LxWxH...you only gave us WxH. You need to remove the driver and/or amp to measure the wall thickness...sometimes the driver baffle is thicker than the other walls. More accurate is to pull the driver/amp and take internal measurements. This will allow you to see if there are any internal braces that are also subtracting from the overall gross volume...measurements of these would be great as well...the more data, the better the solution. If you have a digital camera, take some photos while inside and post 'em up. Finally, measure the port(s?) diameter and length...with that information and the internal dimensions, we can determine the tuning frequency of the cabinet.

Is this a powered sub? If so, Hsu may have included some custom EQ that may not play nice with a replacement driver.

-Brent
 
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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
It is a circular sub. Pretty much a sonotube. So there will be no bracing. I will try and take it apart a little later to get some pics and measure the port.
Thanks
JJ

Ps I contacted Hsu and they recommended the driver from the VTF-3. Little to much money for me.
 
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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
Anybody have any ideas? Was just looking to upgrade since the drivers are a little on the old side.
Thanks
JJ
 

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Hey JJ. I'm in the process of "upgrading" my HRSW12V sub also. What I did was replace the original driver with one of Brian Ding's (Rythmik audio) 12" non-servo drivers he had on sale ($for 129). It is based on the TC-1000, and is recommended for 3-4 cubic ft vented enclosures. He has all the T&S specs on his site, see under "LT" kits. I replaced the 150 watt plate amp with a Mackie FR1400 pro amp (bridged). I was using a BFD on the original setup, am going to try a Behringer DCX2496, I have laying around, in it place, so as to set up a subsonic filter(at 20 Hz).

I played around with Win ISD pro to get an idea of the tuning frequency, but this is my first attempt at this, kind of a primer to building a "from scratch" sonosub. I got a tune of 22Hz, but Brian stated to me in an email that he too owned this sub at one time, and measured it at 20Hz. It comes with a 4"OD sonotube port, 14" long. I debated whether to go to a 3"er to reduce the tune, but decieded not to. We use this sub "nearfield" behind our couch, I didn't want to hear the port noise. I bought two of these non-servo drivers from Rythmik, the plan is to later build a second taller/skinnier sono , to be placed in the front of our room.

A word of caution here, HSU had mounted/sealed the original driver with silicon, I pretty much destroyed it in the process of removing it :(

The original driver is mount on only a 3/4" bottom board, mortised down to 1/2". I added an extra inner and outer ring of 3/4" MDF, mortised to a new thickness of 1 3/4". This decreased the internal volume some. As per Brian's web site, I replaced the random pieces of fiberglass HSU installed with 2" Polyfil Nu-foam, glued on with 3M-spray glue, on the curved sides only. Due to the extra outer MDF bracing, I had to increase the feet length to maintain a 2 1/2” sub to floor height. All I did there was use the “donut holes” of MDF cut with a 2” hole saw. Cut some all-thread rod to 3” long, and used two hole cutouts with each existing foot. Painted all new exposed MDF flat black. I upgraded the binding post with some that can be tightened with a nut-driver (used the existing mount cup), and replaced the wiring to 12 awg.

I plan on setting it all up this week.

An easier upgrade would be for you to just buy one of his 12" servo kits, which includes the plate amp.
 
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