I can't really comment, but I will say that if you're using MDF, I recommend gluing a square of thin ply where the driver cutout will be. This helps nuts contact the flesh of the wood and dig in without grinding the MDF right off.
Hurricane Nuts ot T-Nuts?
Can anyone tell me which works best? I bought both, not sure which to use.
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I used T-nuts on my sub build and my recommendation for them is this: Make the speaker cutout as small as possible to allow the most edge margin for the fastener holes as possible. Using the ply scraps is a good idea, too (I didn't use it, wish I did). MDF tears out very easily and both types of nuts require larger holes. The pieces of ply can even extend beyond the edge of the driver cutout as long as they don't interfere with the speaker.
Forgot to mention that I'm using baltic birch plywood for my encloser.
I've only used T-nuts with no issues. Proper installation is essential. Whether you use Huriccane nuts or T-nuts, always run the bolt through them first to make sure none are cross threaded. You don't want to find that out after they have been installed.
For T-nuts I drill the pilot hole slightly smaller then the shank of the T-nut. this ensures a tight fit. Some people use a construction adhesive on the flange when they install them, I use hot glue around the perimeter of the flange after they are installed. Be careful not to get any glue on the threads. Test the threads again after the nuts have been installed to make sure the threads are "clean".
For T-nuts I drill the pilot hole slightly smaller then the shank of the T-nut. this ensures a tight fit. Some people use a construction adhesive on the flange when they install them, I use hot glue around the perimeter of the flange after they are installed. Be careful not to get any glue on the threads. Test the threads again after the nuts have been installed to make sure the threads are "clean".
I would go with t-nuts if installed properly but they do need to be precisely laid out. I always double or triple my baffel so i can up the screw size and length and opt out of using either, i've never had an issue with just useing screws.:T
I am with bambino on the use of just using screws. I have used both t-nuts and hurricane nuts but unless you are planning on removing them a lot I don't see the hastle of using them over screws.
Thanks for the tips everyone!
With hardwood ply, there is no real benefit to use threaded inserts. A good woodscrew/deck screw into the ply provides a strong/durable attachment. With MDF, of course, threaded inserts are very useful.
Chris
Chris
Good to know, another good thread to bookmark!
I've used hurricane nuts, and found them to be troublesome to install, although the held well afterwards. The large flange interfered with the speaker, and I had to cut the flange of every nut after they were installed. To be sure they wouldn't move, I glued them into the holes, and kept the bolts in during cutting. Oh yes, the holes have to be cut exactly to size sides of the holes. Otherwise they either won't go in or they are too loose.
I have seen T-nuts used commercially. One trick is to put heavy duty staples over the nut flanges so they don't back out of the holes.
Both T-nuts and hurricane nuts work OK if you can lay down your enclosure and drop the woofer in on top. if you are using an infinite baffle that is too large to move, and you have to mount a heavy speaker basket on edge, then any rear-mounted nut has a tendency to cross-thread because the load is on the front of the baffle, and the nut is on the rear and you have a cantelevered load. A better method is to front-mount the screw insert behind the speaker flange.
I have seen T-nuts used commercially. One trick is to put heavy duty staples over the nut flanges so they don't back out of the holes.
Both T-nuts and hurricane nuts work OK if you can lay down your enclosure and drop the woofer in on top. if you are using an infinite baffle that is too large to move, and you have to mount a heavy speaker basket on edge, then any rear-mounted nut has a tendency to cross-thread because the load is on the front of the baffle, and the nut is on the rear and you have a cantelevered load. A better method is to front-mount the screw insert behind the speaker flange.
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