Thanks for the info. I will try it before I change the board.
I think I found a way to fix the digital board. hlr5067w
when you take the cover off the digital board you see a chip close to the dvi output on the board. with my tv I put a ball of foil on there making sure it doesn't short out against anything eles. it has to be big enough so when you push the case back on it cashes down iand t sqeezes the chip down. ( kind of like the xbox 360 x clamp repair) after doing this my tv powers on. this maybe the reason why some people get the green screen if this chip has broken solder joints under it. pushing it down will make it get contact again and may fix your issue. I know before i did this my tv would just flash lamp and the lamp in the back was lighting up but nothing on my screen would come on. please do this at your own risk. if more of you have luck doing this maybe we can come up with some kind of heat sink that can be put onto the chip that will sqeeze when the cover is put back on. I would be willing to pay 15 to 20 dollars for a heatsink that would fix the digital board.
ps the chip inside says dnie and looks like a computer video card chip or motherboard chipset.
Update: please check out http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/samsung/20791-hlr6167wax-xaa-digital-board-problems.html for a better fix then the foil.
ps the chip inside says dnie and looks like a computer video card chip or motherboard chipset.
Update: please check out http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/samsung/20791-hlr6167wax-xaa-digital-board-problems.html for a better fix then the foil.
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it has to be tight. I had to push down on the cover when putting the screws back into the dvi and vga jacks I am guessing it has to be tight. I took more photos of the tv being turned on. will be posting them soon. I also showed what I did. I opened mine back up and used a heatsink and foil. I was afraid that the foil may sqeeze down more and short something out. I am thinking maybe if we could get something that isnt conductive to put under the board it may help keep the board more level and make it press down more level on the chip. making it easyer to install the screws and maybe make it more stable. I was also thinking maybe we could use the vent holes in the top to screw a heat sink or something into place. I wouldnt even know were to find a heatsink that size and that tall.
6
I am guessing that chip gets to warm and the solder melts away from one of the connections or just brakes from it heating up and expanding and when it cools then it shrinking.
before doing this the tv would not fully turn on. the tv would sit and the lamp light on the front of the unit would just flash.
this is the idea I came up with it would press on the chip like the xbox 360 x clamp. you would need 4 screws but I only showed one on the photo shop. I woudln't even know were to go to have someone make something like this. of course the screw holes would have to match up with the vent holes in the top cover. you guys are welcome to make it better and if someone can make them. YOU BETTER SEND ME ONE! and if you sell them I should make so many %. i am sure this would cost a lot less then replacing the board. the lowest price i found was 235 with a 50 dollar core charge. I found others that wanted 269 dollars for this board.
a common Ring of Death xbox fix is to re-solder the pins. Heat gun or solder pencil. Not sure how accessible the pins are but it might be worth a try.
rick
rick
the pins are under the chip and they do not go the hole way threw to the other side. a heat gun may work to remelt the solder but I would be afraid of burning up the chip.
Notice that there are no pins around this chip like most typically have. The pins are underneath and press against the lands on the board. The lands are tinned, allong with the pins on the chip, and when the chip is applied the whole board is heated to complete the solder connection. This kind of chip is called a BGA, or Ball Grid Array. They are used to get shorter connections to the components in the IC and to increase the area possible for connections into chips. The downside is the problem of making good connections, which apparently happens rather often.
I really do not suggest anything conductive like the foil. If it touches the board you could have real problems.
yeah. thats what I was thinking thats why I used a heat sink under it. I am trying to think of something eles that may work. I also didn't want to use anything that could catch on fire.
there is a machine shop up the road but I have no idea how much they would charge to make that clamp. I would have to get messurements for size. the lid and the crews would hole the plates in place and wouldnt let anything short out. all I know is if i remove this the tv dies again. I think these chips are a common area of failer.
I may take mine back apart and wrap the foil in black electrical tape. I want to be on the safe side. after the top is pushed down the foil doesn't move.
there is a machine shop up the road but I have no idea how much they would charge to make that clamp. I would have to get messurements for size. the lid and the crews would hole the plates in place and wouldnt let anything short out. all I know is if i remove this the tv dies again. I think these chips are a common area of failer.
I may take mine back apart and wrap the foil in black electrical tape. I want to be on the safe side. after the top is pushed down the foil doesn't move.
Why not just cut a small block of wood the right size to fit between the cover and the chip?
wasn't sure if there was a chance that the wood may catch fire.
has anyone eles had any luck doing this?
has anyone eles had any luck doing this?
The thread below may be helpful, as it details my version of the pressure on the chip fix, along with the part numbers for that set.
http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ax-xaa-digital-board-problems.html#post184935
http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ax-xaa-digital-board-problems.html#post184935
[Note this reply is also in the linked post 20791-hlr6167wax-xaa-digital-board-problems from lcaillo.]
Thanks much for posting the details on this fix. Great stuff and I hope this works for me.
I'm wanting to try this on my HLR5067WAX/XAA and would appreciate some basic guidance. I opened the large back panel and I think the board I'm looking for is the one with the digital input connectors on it (VGA, HDMI, anynet, g-link, and digital audio out (optical)) as this has a sticker with part bp-94-02084a on it. Had to take off the gray connector plate on the left when looking from the back of the TV and it's at the bottom of that area. Can you please confirm this is the right board to target?
What is the best approach to free the board? Remove the whole chassis with the top board on it with all the analog connectors on it too? There are LOTS of connectors to the top board from other parts of the TV that would have to be removed. But when I try and slide out just the lower digital board there are multiple connectors between it and the top board (analog board I assume) that are connected in the back and hard to reach to free just the digital board. If I need to unplug all the connectors to the top board, so be it, but there were so many I had to stop and ask if I'm crazy.
So far, I unscrewed the big white DVI looking connector on the right side of it to free it up to pull out. I also removed a black small cable from the top of the vertical part of the housing and had to unscrew a gray fan box that was on the board above preventing me from pulling out the housing. As I started pulling I noticed a multi-pin ribbon connector between the top and bottom board and unplugged it only to find there were many more similar connections. I then went to remove the whole chassis but need confirmation that's the best way.
Any detail around removing and getting to the digital board would be appreciated.
Tito
Thanks much for posting the details on this fix. Great stuff and I hope this works for me.
I'm wanting to try this on my HLR5067WAX/XAA and would appreciate some basic guidance. I opened the large back panel and I think the board I'm looking for is the one with the digital input connectors on it (VGA, HDMI, anynet, g-link, and digital audio out (optical)) as this has a sticker with part bp-94-02084a on it. Had to take off the gray connector plate on the left when looking from the back of the TV and it's at the bottom of that area. Can you please confirm this is the right board to target?
What is the best approach to free the board? Remove the whole chassis with the top board on it with all the analog connectors on it too? There are LOTS of connectors to the top board from other parts of the TV that would have to be removed. But when I try and slide out just the lower digital board there are multiple connectors between it and the top board (analog board I assume) that are connected in the back and hard to reach to free just the digital board. If I need to unplug all the connectors to the top board, so be it, but there were so many I had to stop and ask if I'm crazy.
So far, I unscrewed the big white DVI looking connector on the right side of it to free it up to pull out. I also removed a black small cable from the top of the vertical part of the housing and had to unscrew a gray fan box that was on the board above preventing me from pulling out the housing. As I started pulling I noticed a multi-pin ribbon connector between the top and bottom board and unplugged it only to find there were many more similar connections. I then went to remove the whole chassis but need confirmation that's the best way.
Any detail around removing and getting to the digital board would be appreciated.
Tito
thank you. I like lcaillo's idea to put pressure on the chip. glad it's working for you.
First I would like to say thanks to everyone who has contributed to this topic. Your efforts are truly appreciated. I found this forum a few days ago. I have owned 4 Samsung DLP's, I currently own 3.
I'm having the same chip problem with my HL-R5067w. I have an order in for a replacent board. I started searching the web for "BGA chip" repair and found another possible fix. Not sure I want to take this on but I wanted to share with the forum.
I can't post links yet. Search the following for 2 videos:
reflowing-solder-under-bga-processors
I'm having the same chip problem with my HL-R5067w. I have an order in for a replacent board. I started searching the web for "BGA chip" repair and found another possible fix. Not sure I want to take this on but I wanted to share with the forum.
I can't post links yet. Search the following for 2 videos:
reflowing-solder-under-bga-processors
Just be very careful trying to reflow BGA chips. Temperature is very critical, and it is hard to control it without the right equipment.
http://www.ifitjams.com/2008/08/reflowing-solder-under-bga-processors.html here is that video he is talking about but be careful like lcaillo said.Just be very careful trying to reflow BGA chips. Temperature is very critical, and it is hard to control it without the right equipment.
Is reballing or reworking the a BGA chip something a local electronics repair shop can accomplish?
I did find a company - Circuit Technology Center in MA. that specializes in BGA rework.
I did find a company - Circuit Technology Center in MA. that specializes in BGA rework.
I do not know. you could call around and ask.
1 - 20 of 22 Posts
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