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Discussion Starter #1
I've just been turned onto the idea of building a new sub another member, that I met on another forum. He turned me onto this site. Building the sub cabinet, not much of an issue. The actual design, however is another question. Any information would greatly be appreciated. For example, cabinet material, driver size and maybe manufacturer, if it is important, amp size. etc...Room size approximately 1250 cu ft. Onkyo 606. I sit about 12' away from where my sub is located after doing sub crawl. I would almost to be shaking in my chair when it really low. I have 6 kids a wife and three dogs, so I am slightly budgeted.
Again any advice would be greatly appreciated.

Mike
 

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Glad you've decided to take the plunge! There are a few things that affect the final design of your sub, namely size and budget. How much room do you have for the sub?

WinISD is a free modeling program you can download and play with to get an idea for the modeling process. There's a great beginners guide here.
 

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Hi Mike. I'm glad you posted here. Your post 'over there' had DIY written all over it. Now that you're asking the smart guys the questions, you will get the right answers.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I appreciate it guys. Getting ready to go to work this a.m. Will be back about 6:00 p.m. US central
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I was viewing some of the info from WinISD, there are a lot of terminology that is very greek to me. I do have dimensions, for the sub. But kind of at a lost from there. I guess it would be okay to use a good cabinet grade plywood for the cabinet.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
My current sub is 12"x12"x12". It is about 1' off of the wall. If the sub can be closer to the wall then I can make it deeper. I can make it about 16" wide and possible 24" tall. The depth is my concern, because of room setup I can bring front of sub any further out.If being close to the wall would not be an issue, then I could go another 12" deeper minus allowance for the amp.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Re: Proper alignment

I think I would be hard pressed to get a two foot cube, at this time. This would be a big box. I currently have the sub on one side of my tv. It sounded about the same on one side as it did the other, during sub crawl. The side I choose put less objects between the sub and my seating position. For my 11'x 14' room this just seems too large. Possible 1.5'W x 1.5D x 2'H

My next question would be if it is best to have a down firing, or front firing? Is one better than another? If one went with smaller drivers could you have two in one cabinet and have the same impact? Just thinking.
Mike
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Re: Proper alignment

Next question. I am hoping that I am at the right place for the best info. What is wrong with a driver that has a freq range of 18hz to 800hz. Is an Xmax of 14mm good? What other technical info would I need to be concerned with as far as the driver is concerned?

For some reason I have it into my thinking that I am going to build my subwoofer. One thing at a time. If I can get the right driver figure out, then I can move on to the next phase, or is this backwards.

I would think the order would be;
1) driver
2) amplification
3) cabinet design

But Ive never done this before, so I really don't know. I was hoping I was going to learn some things, that I could really use

Thanks to all
Mike
 

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Possible 1.5'W x 1.5D x 2'H
That would be 3.5 cu.ft. internal volume, definitely doable with the right sub and amp combination.

would be if it is best to have a down firing, or front firing?
Not much difference under most circumstances. Down firing would require an additional 4 inch for the legs, and you are height limited with your stated box size.

What is wrong with a driver that has a freq range of 18hz to 800hz?
The low Fs is good for sub duty, the high 800 hz isn't required for sub duty when it's crossed over at 80 hz.

Is an Xmax of 14mm good?
Depending on the circumstances. A large woofer in a small room would give good results. A smaller woofer in a large room would be lacking, especially for the 20 hz and lower frequencies where large amounts of air movement is required in a HT application.

I would think the order would be;
1) driver
2) amplification
3) cabinet design
1 Budget.
2.Driver determines cabinet size. Cabinet size determines driver.
3. Amp
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Hello, Mike P
Consider a 15"driver with an Xmax of 14 Freq range of18-800hz with capabilities of 500W to 1000W max. Okay I get the fact that the freq range from lets say 100hz to 800hz will never be used. Would this be a good driver?
I have what I think is a small room, 11x14x8. Is 15" what would be considered a good driver.
Budget is not really an option, because this is DIY and you or I don't necessarily need all funds at one time.
I understand that driver influences cabinet and cabinet influences driver. Now what? I am thinking $200 or less for a driver. $200-$400 for amp, lower would be better. Best bang for buck, isn't that what it really boils down to, unless we all have an expendable amount of cash? The cabinet itself I am guessing >$200.
 

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13 ply 3/4" Baltic birch plywood is best if you can find it. If you are considering a 15" driver in a ported enclosure, you will need about twice the volume that you are talking about now. Think taller for the sub size.

For such a small room, going sealed (no port), will allow a much smaller enclosure and a much easier build. :sweat:
 

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Discussion Starter #15
For such a small room, going sealed (no port), will allow a much smaller enclosure and a much easier build.
If I go with a smaller sealed enclosure will I get the earth shaking lows that I am looking for. I don't need to go with a 15" driver I am just looking for the earth shaking lows, and it doesn't matter to me how I get there. Still looking for advice in choosing the right driver.
 

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If I go with a smaller sealed enclosure will I get the earth shaking lows that I am looking for. I don't need to go with a 15" driver I am just looking for the earth shaking lows, and it doesn't matter to me how I get there. Still looking for advice in choosing the right driver.
Id recommend taking a look at this http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/diy-subwoofers/9265-members-diy-subwoofer-database.html database and maybe see if any of those designs (in the 12" range probably) appeal to you.
 

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Mach 5 Audio IXL-12.2.2 would provide what you're looking for in the stated cabinet size, and costs $192 shipping included. It will work in a ported application in a 2.5 cu.ft. box. You would have a make a slot port to vent it. The port, sub and bracing would take up another one cu.ft., total internal volume wiould be 3.5 cu.ft. I don't have access to WinISD at the moment, it might be a couple of days until I do. There are possibly other subs that would work, when I get access to WinISD we'll do some modeling and see what your options are. Hang in there! :T
 

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How about using a 12" driver and a couple of 15" passive radiators with a ~ 3.5 cubic ft external volume cubical enclosure? More money since you need to buy the PR's but the most bass from the smallest box.
 

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I'm sorry to get off topic, but every time I see this thread the tune from "I want a new drug" pops into my head. Perhaps we could create a theme song for the forum that plays when someone logs in...I want a new sub, one that does what it should, one that won't crack or pop, one that goes real low...
 

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Perhaps we could create a theme song for the forum
I think you just did. Though the reference may be a little distrurbing it is quite accurate. We all seem to crave lower lows, no matter what our current sub is.
 
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