Hi i would like to build a 12in sub im fairly good at wood working but pretty much a newbie at tuning and figuring out size. i plan to use a 500w plate amp and would like it to reach down to 20hz is will be for music as well as HT and help with box size and port tuning will be greatly appreciated. the room is a family room kitchen combined so i would have to guess it is 17 X 35 thanks in advance for your response. Woofer recondmendation would also be appreciated and size wise the smallestest i could go and get down to 20hz at least 100db
i would like a do build a 12in sub plz help
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Hi bigdawg, welcome to the Shack!
I'm not a sub guru, but I think you may have trouble getting that much bass in that big a room with a 12" driver. Have you got a driver already, or do you just have one in mind? Have you got a budget to stay in? How big can the box be?
I'm sure someone else will be along to ask better questions and give you some help.
I'm not a sub guru, but I think you may have trouble getting that much bass in that big a room with a 12" driver. Have you got a driver already, or do you just have one in mind? Have you got a budget to stay in? How big can the box be?
I'm sure someone else will be along to ask better questions and give you some help.
A Mach 5 Audio IXL-15 would work nicely in 6 cu.ft. net volume tuned to 18 hz with two 4 inch flared ports 32 inches long. With 500 watts of power you'd get 112 db at 20 hz, plus room gain. The internal volume of the box would need to be 7 cu.ft to account for the displacement of the sub, ports and bracing. If built in a cube, the external dimensions would be around 25 inches. The ports would require the use of 4 inch PVC elbows, about 3 dollars each. The sub is $220 shipping included.
Another option is using a proven linear device, the Infinity Kappa VQ (about $180 a piece). This 12" driver is extremely versatile due to its variable motor - meaning if in the future you want to change alignments it the motor can be easily adjusted by you to work in a variety of enclosures. Along side that, I have already done all the hard work modeling and designing the cabinet along with providing a cut list. I was able to achieve 120-125dB at 20Hz in room 2 meters from the subwoofer (using a bridged EP2500) with no audible distortion what so ever. Along side this I was room limited, a window and the ceiling in my apartment cracked when I was running these high SPL tones that was enough to get me to turn the volume down :bigsmile::hsd:.
Information, a review from another who built this design and a video of these subs in action can be found here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ion/13666-simple-12-kappa-vq-midq-design.html
Information, a review from another who built this design and a video of these subs in action can be found here: http://www.hometheatershack.com/for...ion/13666-simple-12-kappa-vq-midq-design.html
If you really want to use a plate amp make a small separate case for it and place it on your rack or on top of the sub. I would not recommend ever mounting a plate amp on a cabinet as it can possibly limit you in the future if the amp broke or you wanted to upgrade.
As far as I know the best plate amp for the job is the O-audio 500 watt amp, it has infrasonic filter capabilities and a some equalization capabilities as well plus it measures fairly well.
Everyone I know has used the single coil for their builds, but the dual voice coil should work just as well. The main difference being one will be 4 ohm nominal (single) and the other will be either 2 or 8 ohm nominal (double). Other than that some of the T/S parameters are slightly different, but I wouldn't a significant change in performance.
If you do build this be sure to post build pics and impression
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