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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Are cardboard sub enclosures any good for home theater? I'm new to DIY speakers but a cardboard enclosure seems so simple to build that I'm willing to do the job but I need some tips despite that. I need help to build an enclosure for the Dayton Audio RSS210HF-4. The specs suggest a 1.76 ft3 enclosure and I can get that volume from a 10 inch diameter, 48 inch long cardboard tube or close. I got that number from the volume calculator available in this website. I used a thickness of .25 inch because I don't know the real thickness of the tube but that number seems pretty close to me. I need help with that as well. Is there any member with experience in such project that can give me some tips?
 

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When you say "cardboard" do you mean a "Sonotube" Otherwise I have this picture of a sub on the side of a cardboard fridge box that I dont think would work well lol...

 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
When you say "cardboard" do you mean a "Sonotube" Otherwise I have this picture of a sub on the side of a cardboard fridge box that I dont think would work well lol...

I mean a Quikrete tube which are the ones that Lowe's carries. But those are very similar to Sonotube anyway. You don't think they'll sound good?
 

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When you say "cardboard" do you mean a "Sonotube" Otherwise I have this picture of a sub on the side of a cardboard fridge box that I dont think would work well lol...
Maybe a couple fridge boxes together for an LLT/IB! Rofl! ...maybe my next DIY will sport Kenmore veneer!
Yes concrete tubes work great. I've used them as well as SVS, and many, many other DIY guys. Make sure you use fiberglass insulation for damping. I tried batting once and it didn't quite do the job, but still not bad. "Egg crate" foam is good too.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Maybe a couple fridge boxes together for an LLT/IB! Rofl! ...maybe my next DIY will sport Kenmore veneer!
Yes concrete tubes work great. I've used them as well as SVS, and many, many other DIY guys. Make sure you use fiberglass insulation for damping. I tried batting once and it didn't quite do the job, but still not bad. "Egg crate" foam is good too.
Can you give me more details like bracing, port size, etc... Do you have some pics?
 

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I mean a Quikrete tube which are the ones that Lowe's carries. But those are very similar to Sonotube anyway. You don't think they'll sound good?
Didn't say that. I think it will sound good if the math is right.

Maybe a couple fridge boxes together for an LLT/IB! Rofl! ...maybe my next DIY will sport Kenmore veneer!
Yes concrete tubes work great. I've used them as well as SVS, and many, many other DIY guys. Make sure you use fiberglass insulation for damping. I tried batting once and it didn't quite do the job, but still not bad. "Egg crate" foam is good too.

I agree. SVS and other companies do similar subs for a reason.
 

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Hi big Louis, I'm gonna get busy for awhile here but can say 2 MDF pieces at 3/4" for the driver baffle. (1.5" total). Single 3/4 is ok for port baffle. I'm guessing by the part number, you're using a 10" driver, in which case you'll need a 12" tube. I use a free program called sonosub to model with. Together with winisd, you should be able to calculate very accurately. I simple google search will find both easily. Later tonight, I can model based on the t/s parameters, and would be glad to do so. ...unless someone beats me to it. My useful pics are somewhere but I'll share these for now. Gotta go, I'll drop in later.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Hi big Louis, I'm gonna get busy for awhile here but can say 2 MDF pieces at 3/4" for the driver baffle. (1.5" total). Single 3/4 is ok for port baffle. I'm guessing by the part number, you're using a 10" driver, in which case you'll need a 12" tube. I use a free program called sonosub to model with. Together with winisd, you should be able to calculate very accurately. I simple google search will find both easily. Later tonight, I can model based on the t/s parameters, and would be glad to do so. ...unless someone beats me to it. My useful pics are somewhere but I'll share these for now. Gotta go, I'll drop in later.
That project looks good. Simple enough for a newbie to build, effective and looks good once carpeted. Actually the model number I mentioned belongs to the 8" version of the sub. Is just that I live in a apt and a bigger driver is a waste of resources because I can't play the sub too loud because of the neighbors. Maybe it won't go as deep as a bigger sub but I'll have to live with that.

That design would work for me but I plan to make some modifications. For the front baffle I was thinking to add three pieces. One the size of the inner hole of the tube so it fits inside letting me use some screws from the outside walls of the tube to hold the baffle in place. That piece would be 3/4" in thickness and should have a hole to fit the sub. The other two I was thinking to make them about 14" in diameter so they overlap the diameter of the tube because I plan to add a base using round dowels to make the sub down-firing. The tube is 10" in diameter so the outer baffle pieces will have a 2" overlap, that would give me enough space to use 1" or 1 1/4" dowels for the base, cutted at maybe about 4" long. The first piece of the outer baffle I plan to cut a hole to fit the sub as well. That piece could be 1/2" in thickness. The second piece will have a hole the size of the outer frame of the sub so it looks recessed and flush, plus the holes of the dowels so they rest over the first piece of the outer baffle. That piece can also be 1/2" in thickness. That way the glue will bond strong. The base itself can be round and made using the same technique for the dowel holes. I can also screw the dowels from the inside of the baffle. Maybe I should cut a hole to the base so I it fits my hand just in case that I have to remove the sub. For the port baffle I can use the same technique so the port looks recessed as well.

What do you think about my ideas so far?
 

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Hey Louis, I like your ideas so far. I secured my baffles with wood glue, and s finish stapler. I think this is how SVS does it too by your description, I'm seeing something like this:

It's one of my favorite designs.
Here's mine with my real SVS.

So I did a quick bit of homework and it looks like PE says that driver likes a 1.67cuft enclosure, at 24hz. I modeled in both programs I have and came up with this:
Basically a 4' X 10" sub with a 3" X 16" port. 1.84 cuft. 24.1hz. According to winisd, the -3db point is 21hz.
I'll try tomorrow with a 12" tube. That way it wouldn't need to be so tall. Do you have any plans for power? The last one I made was with a 6.5" driver from an htib. I had some 8"tube leftover from a cat tower I built. Tuned it at 30hz, sounds pretty good considering...
Hopefully you'll have a home of your own someday, and no neighbors to worry about.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Hey Louis, I like your ideas so far. I secured my baffles with wood glue, and s finish stapler. I think this is how SVS does it too by your description, I'm seeing something like this:

It's one of my favorite designs.
Here's mine with my real SVS.

So I did a quick bit of homework and it looks like PE says that driver likes a 1.67cuft enclosure, at 24hz. I modeled in both programs I have and came up with this:
Basically a 4' X 10" sub with a 3" X 16" port. 1.84 cuft. 24.1hz. According to winisd, the -3db point is 21hz.
I'll try tomorrow with a 12" tube. That way it wouldn't need to be so tall. Do you have any plans for power? The last one I made was with a 6.5" driver from an htib. I had some 8"tube leftover from a cat tower I built. Tuned it at 30hz, sounds pretty good considering...
Hopefully you'll have a home of your own someday, and no neighbors to worry about.
That's exactly what I'm talking about. I'll go and buy some tools and materials tomorrow. I feel so excited about this. These projects are supposed to be fun and that's exactly how I feel about this. I need some advice to cut the pieces of MDF of the diameter I need. I found a hole cutter in Amazon (hole cutter) but it won't cut anything bigger than 11 7/8" so I'm a little short trying to cut a 14" diameter circle. I don't have any tools for this so tomorrow I'll go to Walmart and get the Black & Decker Matrix. The Matrix is a battery drill with different attachments so you can have everything in one tool. I saw it for about $90 including drill and jig saw attachments. There's a router attachment available for about $40. Do you think I'll be all right with the Matrix? Do you know of any better hole cutter than the Amazon one?
 

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Just saw the matrix for the first time. Looks pretty cool! Amazon cutter should work well too, but it's smaller than what you want. If you didn't do the larger piece, and made it just to fit the tube it'd be great. I think most guys use a circle jig and a router. This I'd ideal, but obviously more expensive. My friend owns a car audio shop so I have his guys cut my stuff on his router table. If you know, or have a local custom audio shop, they might cut for you. Maybe even a cabinet maker. It might be cheaper than buying tools, but you'll still have the satisfaction of assy, and finishing. You can also cut jigsaw style, but get ready to sand out some edges. If you went the way of not using the larger round piece, you can use hurricane nuts on the back of the baffle to mount the base plate depending on the diameter of the dowels.(could do this either way) Fwiw though, if you made it like the white one(or similar)in the pic I posted, it would be unique, and awesome too.
Btw, you need to put up pics of progress. It's just protocol! ...and we won't believe you if you don't! Lol
Glad your excited. That's how it should be.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
Just saw the matrix for the first time. Looks pretty cool! Amazon cutter should work well too, but it's smaller than what you want. If you didn't do the larger piece, and made it just to fit the tube it'd be great. I think most guys use a circle jig and a router. This I'd ideal, but obviously more expensive. My friend owns a car audio shop so I have his guys cut my stuff on his router table. If you know, or have a local custom audio shop, they might cut for you. Maybe even a cabinet maker. It might be cheaper than buying tools, but you'll still have the satisfaction of assy, and finishing. You can also cut jigsaw style, but get ready to sand out some edges. If you went the way of not using the larger round piece, you can use hurricane nuts on the back of the baffle to mount the base plate depending on the diameter of the dowels.(could do this either way) Fwiw though, if you made it like the white one(or similar)in the pic I posted, it would be unique, and awesome too.
Btw, you need to put up pics of progress. It's just protocol! ...and we won't believe you if you don't! Lol
Glad your excited. That's how it should be.
Hurricane nuts didn't came to my mind. I can also use a square piece of MDF as the base so there's no need to cut the larger circle. That way I can use the circle cutter from Amazon for all my round pieces of MDF. Yeah this idea is much better. Hurricane nuts and square base are the way to go. Thanks for the idea.
 
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