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Discussion Starter #1
This can be very long winded so I will first put the question itself, then more detail as needed to answer:

In an LLT sono with an 8" flared port, how much will it effect the tune to run a 1" piece of wood accross the mouth of the port deep inside the tube?


I adapted a flair from HVAC and some mistakes forced me to attach the port to it while the tube was on its side, not the port was not a perfect fit to the flair and the flair fit inside the port leaving a very small direct contact area.

To make it worse this was done on its side so some parts of the port are angled away from the contact point and gravity will tend to stress them more. I simply CANT have anything fail!

So to be safe I figure I will run a 1" tall thick and wide piece of wood that is 18" long along oposites sides of the sonotube and used wood glue to make sure there is plenty of surface area without using larger wood that would be effected by the curve of the tube. Then use glue blocks and attach them to these parallel pieces of wood and finally place a piece of the same wood along these wood blocks with wood glue and put it so it adds just slight preassure or support to the port. This would also brace the tube slightly.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
A picture is near impossible because the angles are so slightly off (photographically speaking) and the tube is hard to get into at the right angle.

Here is a BAD 2d drawing...

The flair goes into the port and gets better contact on one side than the other BUT the entire overalled area is under an inch and the contact area is just at the very end of that. Most of the liquid nails is on inside where the contact does not occur but was put on heavily in hopes that it would harden almost like a bridge.

Across the bottom of the port I want to put a piece of wood from one side to the other that will slightly tough the port so that if anything beging to give way it will not move and the air seal will remain because the adhesive on the flair/port wont get a chance to pull apart. I also considered running wire from one side to the other using the same idea of gluing wood anchors to each side. This might be more risky though because of vibration causing it to make noises...
 

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Discussion Starter #4
More info:

The wood on both sides and in the middle is 1" tall and deep so it would have 13 or so inches of contact area on the tubes and only block 1 inch of the port
 

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Discussion Starter #6
I really am not capable of doing that, that would involve cutting the right angles into the backs of the vertical bars on the tube I think...

Would a wire going across be stable enough without restricting flow?

Is there some other way to make sure the braces make clean contact to the tub despite not being run across the middle (the only way they will be truely flush to the tube?
 

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I really am not capable of doing that, that would involve cutting the right angles into the backs of the vertical bars on the tube I think...
I don't know what you mean. Your pic shows a one piece brace running from side to side across the port intake. Use the same brace and glue it to the side of the port tube.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
The first pics are from the one that was worse... I am HORRIBLE with DIY stuff, none of my cuts were right. Both the pieces going across were too long and got forced in. This made the tube start deforming into an oval so I had to put something going the other way to offset it. The first close up shows the pressure point of one on the pieces (1x1 - the other is a 2x4...) where there is a ton of pressure but not much contact info and a TON of Pl Premium polyurethane construction adhesive. The seond closup shows what was suppose to be a cross brace was was too loose so there is is a ton of glue again/

On the other tube the fit was much closer to the 2x4. It was slightly loose but had enough contact area and pressure plus this port seemed to be in stronger.

Finally is a pic from what I tried to describe about how I bridged the two pieces near the flair but you cant really see the twist or imbalance that caused my concern...
 

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Don't add the 1" strip across the mouth of the port, that would be a really bad decision. What you already have should be fine, just let the adhesive cure.

You really shouldn't even need any supports for the port - I'm not using anything. If you had a tight fit between the port and the holes in the top endcap, a very small amount of caulk would go a really long way.

PS - you really should have added some poly batting or fiberglass batting around the port to help cancel any standing waves.
 
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