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Discussion Starter #1
Hello

After months of reading on this forum and weeks of working with Graham Perkins (another Graham Perkins design) I have started to build 4 IXL 18.2.2 10 cubic foot subs tuned down to 15hz. I have all the parts with the exception of the 2 Berhinger EP4000's. These subs are to replace one 12 inch Polk Audio sub. My speakers are DIY Jim Holtz Statements, full size, mini's and center.

All parts are cut, internal port is painted, it took forever to square up and round over the cutouts for the internal bracing.

I plan to start assembling them tomorrow, Tuesday.

Gregg
 

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Gregg,

Great to see the build on here. That brace cutting is amazing mate. Really impressed.

This is going to be very interesting indeed when they are in the room.

Great stuff.

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Nice build! Did you cut the bracing on a CNC router? It looks phenomenal! Just curious how you pulled that off!

Don
I was not kidding when I said it took forever to cut the holes in the bracing, 30 hours or so, once the first one is done it gets easier. First I rough cut the hole with a jig saw, than I made templates out of one inch strips I ripped on the table saw, used a 4 inch machinist square to make the template cut outs square. I used double sided tape to hold the template in place until I got lazy, than I just screwed the template on. After that I used a router with a flush trim bearing bit and just followed the template. At that point the holes are square, I removed the template and used a 3/8 roundover bit in my router to finish it off.
I do really appreciate the compliment, thank you.

Gregg
 

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GPHammer said:
I was not kidding when I said it took forever to cut the holes in the bracing, 30 hours or so, once the first one is done it gets easier. First I rough cut the hole with a jig saw, than I made templates out of one inch strips I ripped on the table saw, used a 4 inch machinist square to make the template cut outs square. I used double sided tape to hold the template in place until I got lazy, than I just screwed the template on. After that I used a router with a flush trim bearing bit and just followed the template. At that point the holes are square, I removed the template and used a 3/8 roundover bit in my router to finish it off.
I do really appreciate the compliment, thank you.

Gregg
I must say kudos to you!!! I don't think I have that much patience in my whole body! I almost threw something tonight just clamping, gluing, and screwing 2 pieces of baffle together! Only 5 more double baffles to go! I think I have several nights of frustration ahead of me :(

Again, very nice craftsmanship and I can't wait to see some progress pics. If the rest of the build looks half as good as your bracing, I bet we are all in for a treat.

Don
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Well I got a little more complete the last 2 nights, glued all bracing, installed T-nuts for the woofers and mounted the front baffles on 2 of the cabinets. I am building from the front to the back because I pre cut all my wood I want the errors to be at the back of the speakers.

And Don, I have been known to throw a tool or two in my time. At my age now, I just put the tools down and go in the house.

I plan to install 2 inch pyramid foam as I go, does anybody put the foam on the bracing or just the top, back and side of the cabinet.

Gregg
 

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Looks REALLY nice. :T Just curious, but why did you cut the back baffle so short? Are you integrating the port to the rear?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Looks REALLY nice. :T Just curious, but why did you cut the back baffle so short? Are you integrating the port to the rear?
Sorry Tony, I should have included a picture of the build drawing from Graham, it would have made more sense. By the way, nice paint job on your sub, please do not go far, I am sure I will have some questions for you. The Statement speakers I built last fall are still unfinished, you did a wonderful job.

Gregg
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Looking great! What type of glue did you use?

Don
I use Lepage yellow carpenter's glue or TiteBond II yellow glue, the Lepage has a higher initial tack and sets in about 20 minutes, the TiteBond II sets in about 30 minutes, than you can remove the clamps. Both very good glues.

Gregg
 

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GPHammer said:
I use Lepage yellow carpenter's glue or TiteBond II yellow glue, the Lepage has a higher initial tack and sets in about 20 minutes, the TiteBond II sets in about 30 minutes, than you can remove the clamps. Both very good glues.

Gregg
Cool. I have been using Titebond III for everything and it seems to work well. It takes even longer to set up, about an hour or so... But it is supposed to be the strongest of the Titebond water based wood glues. I just have to clamp a little longer.

Don
 

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Thanks GP. It was my first HT build and I learned a lot. I will be around, I'm subscribed to your thread and really look forward to seeing your progress. It makes since now that you posted the sketchup. That Graham guy knows what he's doing. :)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Well I managed to get some more done on the subs. I have been installing the acoustic insulation as I go along. This is my third speaker build but the first time I was smart enough to install the insulation as I go.

I still have to cut a hole in the back panel for the binding posts, install the back panel, install the top, install wire for speaker, install last side panel and they should be complete.

I also picked up some Tremclad Hammered Black spray paint and will do a test finish on some MDF to see how I can get it to look. After seeing Tony's pictures of his sub, I have changed my mind on how I want my sub to look, Tony's are pretty impressive.

Gregg
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Well I finally completed the 4 cabinets for the subs, they are very heavy so I built wheelers to move them around my garage.

Next step is the finishing, my original plan was black fronts and veneered sides until I seen Tony's (Stuck Pixel) build thread, now I will try and go all black. All tips are welcome. I noticed Tony used wood filler (not sure what type) as opposed to bondo, I may also try the wood filler method.

GP
 

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