Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

1 - 19 of 19 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello. I'm new. Looks like there is a good community here.

I've had an IXL-18.4 for a few years but I've never done anything with it. A couple weeks ago I decided to get off my butt and try my hand at building a sealed box for it. I spoke with Mark at IST and he suggested 4 cu ft and 500-1000 watts. There was some discussion and a little arguing on the issue over on AVS but I ended up finding a good deal on a Dayton SA1000.

The amp hasn't arrived yet but I made a little progress on the box.

My attempt at a sketch. After taking into account the double front baffle, bracing and the displacement of the sub it leaves me with very close to 4 cu ft.



I found a helpful person at Home Depot to make the cuts.



Last night I glued the double front baffle together and two of the side panels together. Then I sketched out the bracing, cut it out (jigsaws are the worst) and glued it together.





 

·
Super Moderator
Joined
·
5,869 Posts
Great start so far. Love the bracing. :T
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Made some more progress this morning. The cardboard templates weren't round anymore so i laid it out.



and cut it out. This was a huge pain to do with a jigsaw. I will definitely find a circle jig the next time I do this.




I wanted to make sure the top, brace, and bottom were all the same size so I clamped them together and sanded them as one unit.





The bolts I have to go with the hurricane nuts are 1.5" long. Should I countersink the nuts into the back of the baffle or should I look for longer bolts?

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
You should be able to counter sink them a 1/4" or so, just enough so the bolt is using all the treads. Make sure the countersink is a bit over sized for ease of installation. After the shanks are installed run a bead of hot glue around the perimeter.
That worked perfectly. Thanks.

I went over to a friend's house. He and his drill press helped me get the mounting holes drilled, the t-nuts counter-sunk and installed.

I glued the top to the brace.


Unwrapped the new amp.


and glued the top/brace assembly to the sides.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
It's looking good. This is the first time I've seen a relief cut into the back side of a baffle, very creative!
Thanks. Yeah, I found that router bit when I was rooting through the storage room for the circle jig so I figured why not.

I could use some input. The plan was to use this in a down-firing configuration. Part of the reason for that was for looks and to avoid needing to build a grill (a bad reason, I know). I want to test it in different configurations to be sure I'm not loosing anything going down-firing but if I change my mind I would end up with the terminal cup on the wrong side.

How do you recommend I run the speaker wire for testing? I was thinking of making a best guess at where the terminal cup will go and drilling a hole just big enough for the wire to pull through and sealing it with caulking.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
683 Posts
How do you recommend I run the speaker wire for testing? I was thinking of making a best guess at where the terminal cup will go and drilling a hole just big enough for the wire to pull through and sealing it with caulking.
I was about to recommend temporarily routing the wiring through the port...except that this is a sealed build! I would just do what you were thinking and put a hole just big enough for the wire for testing, seal it up, test and fill the hole if it's not where you need it.

Nice build! :T
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
683 Posts
Typical builds I've seen here (ported or sealed) have been recommended to use polyfill (approximately 1lb per 1 cu ft I think is the rule of thumb). Polyfill for sealed builds, foam or fiberglass on the walls for ported (though I haven't seen fiberglass as often, which I'm not surprised about).
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
It makes noise! No finish yet but that will come later.

I glued the second to last side on.


The two sides were were a little proud of the middle pieces so I clamped some scrap to the outside to level the sanding block and ground things down.


Glued the last side on.


Smoothed things out.


Added some poly fill and gasket.



Here it is! This won't be it's permanent spot but I couldn't resist hooking it up and making some noise. The one it's replacing is under the amps.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,074 Posts
Nice Job, Evan! I bet it is a big improvement over the old sub. How do you like it so far? Play around with the orientation, but I think you'll find it probably won't make a huge difference in the sound. I'd just check to see if the driver is OK for horizontal (downfiring) mounting and sag won't be an issue, and then just choose the option that suits your room better.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
12 Posts
I used this build as a model for my 18, and it's worked out awesome!

Thanks for posting the pics. Now I just need to get an amp for it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
58 Posts
That looks fantastic, there's some real talent on this forum!
 
1 - 19 of 19 Posts
Top