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Discussion Starter #1
Are there any tried and true ixl-18 mk2 sealed cabinet plans available? I'll be making two of them :) I'll be using an inuke6000dsp, so no need for amp cutouts... Having a hard time finding plans that don't require a degree in rocket science :(

Thanks!
 

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Not exactly hard to make a simple sealed cabinet. Use butt joints and use the enclosure volume calculator on here and it should be easy from there.

What do you need or what are you looking for?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I see all kinds of plans for ported subs, but few for sealed.

As a noob, it'd be good to get it right the first time. It's be awesome to know the best kind of caulk/glue for sealing, measurements for the box cuts, how to do bracing, what to use inside the sub as insulation, what finish do I choose... I just want to get it right... twice. Is the Inuke 6000 too much/too little? Will this sound better than my ported SVS PB-12nsd, or am I wasting time/money chasing something that is going to be disappointing? People seem very happy with the ISF's, and 18" seems pretty awesome. Just making sure I am making the right decision.
 

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For beginner PL Pro adhesive is what you want to glue everything up. PL expands when it dries and can fill gaps up to 8mm. SO if you cuts aren't perfect this will make things looks perfect.

I use a straight 40" metal ruler for most of my measuring. I have quite a few tape measures but dont like how the very end bit that grabs the edge can move slightly on most of them. So I trust the straight ruler.

If you are designing your sub and place the sub in a .8 or higher enclosure you may add some stuffing. BUT if you design or enclosure for a .7 alignment then you shouldn't need stuffing. Most of the time if your stuffing a woofer in an enclosure that is way to small for it then you should add stuffing. Other wise you dont need any.

An Inuke 6000 is perfect for a pair of 18's. Sometimes you need even more wattage. BUT if you design the sub for an optimal enclosure then you should only need what the Inuke can deliver.

While a 12" ported cabinet will be comparable to some sealed 15's it usually wont have a chance against any 18" sealed. When it comes to which one can move more air the 18's sealed win hands down. No contest.

The SVS PB can offer these numbers:
16hz 93.3db 103db
20hz 103.2db 106.8db
25hz 105db 110.1db
31.5hz 105.9db 113db
40hz 106.4db 115db
50hz 107.3db 116db
All the ones in red are simulated responses for the IXL using WinISD. The IXL only needs about 850watts to hit Xmax at 10hz. With electronic roll offs and other variables it is best to have as much wattage as you have for each 18.

The IXL was in a 3.8cuft enclosure for the simulation. Hope this helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I changed my mind... scored a 24" sonotube ;)

Now I need to figure out tuning, port size and height :( I wonder if Sonotubes can be sealed?
 

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Yes they can be sealed. Just measure the volume of the tube minus the volume of the bracing and speaker. I've seen a handful of nice sonotube builds on here, use the search function to begin your research.

Good luck and show us some pics of your project!
 

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I have quite a few tape measures but dont like how the very end bit that grabs the edge can move slightly on most of them. So I trust the straight ruler.
If I get what you mean by "moves slightly", the hook at the end is designed to slide. It should slide the exactly the thickness of the hook. That way measurements taken with the hook butted up against something is the same as when taken with it hooked over an edge.
 

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Ya I understood that after using them but just preferred the straight ruler myself. Unless I am doing cuts that dont matter as much. BUT I do a lot of horn designs and have gotten used to using a straight edge a LOT.

And welcome to the forum. :wave:
 
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