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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys

I'm new here

I have a Jamo E 6CEN speaker , i have noticed this past year the sound has become dull. My floorstanding speakers Jamo E670 have better sound in the top end. I have been trying to find what tweeter and woofers i can put into it to make it sound better. The part number for the tweeter is 20137 and the woofer is 20638.

The ohm indepence for the whole unit is 6 ohm, but the woofers are 4 ohm . Plus i have noticed in the manual it say 2 woofers , 2 midrange woofers but when i looked its all the same part number . The tweeter i was a bit shocked by when i seen it , it looks like a very cheap tweeter that you find in in $10 speakers

My receiver is Integra 6.8

Mark
 

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Hi Mark,

First, welcome, second, sorry I missed this. Ok, obvious answer is, contact Jamo, see if they stock a replacement tweeter. If not, ask if they can at least supply the specs, so that a suitable replacement can be recommended/selected. The crossover in the speaker is tailored very specifically for that driver and depends on a bunch of parameters beyond the "ohm" rating, which is simply an "average" number of the actual impedance curve. So "dropping in" a random tweeter would be equivalent to throwing a dart at a board....blindfolded.:)
Best of luck.

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hi

Thanks for the reply back , i have got in contact with Jamo here in Australia. A new tweeter would cost $89 , i have asked for the specs but Jamo doesnt give them out etc
 

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Discussion Starter #6
The part numbers are different to the E670, the tweeter in the E670 has a big magnet on the back. The one in the centre is very small and doesn't have a big magnet , Part number for centre one is 20137

I put some pics up when i get home of the crossover etc
 

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Hi Mark, the center tweeter uses a Neodymium magnet vs the Ferrite of the 670. It's actually not "cheaper".:)
Just a much more powerful magnetic material. They wanted the center to be shielded in case it was used with an old CRT TV. Neo does that.
It also appears the wires are soldered to the tabs? If so, they are making this a real pain, because I was going to suggest testing the tweeter, but you would have to desolder...or cut the wires.

cheers
 

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Discussion Starter #9
That explains a fair bit , thanks for explaining it . What kind of tests can i do ? I can easily take the wires off and resolder them
 

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You can use a small 1.5V battery (like AA or AAA here) to test if it is indeed the driver that is dead and not a component on the XO board (which is less likely). Basically connect the battery to the tweeter momentarily and you should hear a low crackle. It won't harm it in any way.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
You can use a small 1.5V battery (like AA or AAA here) to test if it is indeed the driver that is dead and not a component on the XO board (which is less likely). Basically connect the battery to the tweeter momentarily and you should hear a low crackle. It won't harm it in any way.
done the test and the tweeter works
 

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Discussion Starter #14
When you found the center was dull, did you ever swap it out with either L or R speaker (which I presume, are not dull?
Its just single connectors at the back of it

I swapped the left speaker to the center channel and it worked fine :) so i know its not the amp
 

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Well, then there is an issue either with the internal wiring, or the XO board, likely the HF capacitor or a solder joint.
You can perform a continuity test. Might be tough to do with the battery unless you have a battery holder with bare wire extensions.
You could tune the receiver FM radio to an in between stations frequency, where there is only hiss, turn the bass knob all the way down and only use minimum volume required. The tweeter can take low levels of full range signal for short duration without risk of damage.
Connect the tweeter (-) wire tab coming out of the front baffle to the tweeter (-) to establish return path.
Connect a wire from receiver (-) output terminal (playing FM hiss at low level) to speaker in (-) terminal. Connect wire from receiver (+) output terminal direct to tweeter (+). You should hear sound. Once you do (return path confirmed ok), then connect (+) tweeter wire tab coming out of baffle to tweeter.
Touch the + wire from receiver to various points on the circuit, like the tabs on both sides of the capacitor, to see where the failure is located.
Otherwise, take it to an experienced local electronics/speaker builder, to do the above.:)
Good luck!
 

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I have the same speaker and ive fix it :) i can explain to you how to do that but first tell me if you read this because i dont want to write a big explanation for no one to read :)
 
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