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Discussion Starter #1
Hello Guy's, Brand new member here and probably just as confused if not more so than a lot of newbies so help out with opinions here please!

I happen to have a pair of cherry JL Audio 15" W-6's that were part of a system with practically no prior use in a classic car that have been put away for some years. I know when I bought these they were the top of the line JL subs ( PRE W-7 days) that JL offered. As I progress into playing with setting up a HT system on a very limited budget after looking at the pricing on different componants making use of what I already own could go a long way into setting up a better sounding system with limited dollars.

The speakers right now are mounted in a sealed seperated box that meet the specs that JL Adio recommends for these speakers. My questions are many but would I be okay to stay with the sealed box for HT use or be better served to put together a ported box?

The room size will be about 17'x14' and used 80% for HT use. The sealed box size as per JL currently is 1.25' ft, the recommended ported enclosure size 2.25ft with two 3"x21.2" ports.

The specs on the W-6's are, Fs 16.3 Hz, Qts 0.312, Qms 7.817, Vas 10.88ft, Xmas 0.420 in,
Efficiency(1W/1m) 87.9db, Sd 131.0 in, nominal impedance dual 6 ohm, Pt 400 watts.

Will probably from reading what seems like 1000's of post to different forums go with something along the line of a Behringer amp and if needed a smart box and or EQ set up. I guess will these subs be a good choice to use for HT and how best to utilze them for the best performance?

Thanks in advance for all help and opinions!
 

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The recommended sealed and ported sizes for car audio are completely different from what is required for HT. Car audio relies on the extreme amount of cabin gain to boost the low end, Ht applications have room gain to boost the low end but at a much lesser degree.
The 15w6 has a Xmax of 10.7 mm, to best utilize the sub in a HT application ported would be the way to go. The sub in 5 cu.ft. tuned to 19 hz would reach Xmax with 275 watts. A high pass filter would be required at 16 hz to protect the sub from over excursion at the lower frequencies. Porting would be one 4 inch diameter flared port 16.75 inches long.

JL 15w6.JPG
 

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Discussion Starter #3
So correct me if I am wrong but what I am reading here is that the sub would have to be in a HUGE enclosure and then be very limited in its operational range to minimize the risk of damage from over excursion.
So actual bottom line would be these W-6's really are more suited for automotive use and do not really do very well on the crossover to HT, would this be a fair assesment?
 

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A 5 cu.ft. enclosure would be approximately a 22 inch cube, far from being considered huge. The sub would not be limited in its operational range if the appropriate measures are taken to protect the sub. (high pass filter). With roon gain one sub is capable of 112 db at 20 hz and lower, which is good performance from a sub with limited Xmax and power handling. There are better subs out there if you want a higher level of performance, click on the link in my signature to see what people have been building.
 

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Okay, makes more sense to me now. I told you I was a confused newby! lol!

I guess the reason I had thought huge was that the diminsions for the 1.25' sealed enclosure was like 18"x16"x11.5" and I was figuring to get a 5 cubic foot would be 4 times that measurement. Two- 22" cubes would be a much more reasonable.

So basically what LP and HP cutoffs would be best to use for this set up? Also would something like the Behringer 2500 be a good choice as far as an amp to power these?

I guess really what I am looking for is the capability to get the effects from like the depth charges in movies like u-571 or the effects from movies like WOTW or Blackhawk down at something like the levels you would find in an average theater and I realize that there are better options available for the right amount of dollars.

So since I already have the W-6's as far as a performance versus a cost factor and all I would need to do is purchase the amp and build the boxes would the outcome likely give satisfactory results? I do appreciate you taking the time and effort to give your insight as well! Thanks!
 

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Never used a 15" W6 but I did build a large ported enclosure for a 15-W4 and it sounded great. I believe you will happy with the sound of the W6's. The other option is to sale them on ebay and get a more up to date woofer. "Back in my car audio days the W6 was a BAD **** WOOFER. :) Brings back memories.

Matt
 

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Low pass would be 80 hz from the receiver. Behringer amps don't have a built in high pass so you'll have to get an add on unit like the Reckhorn B1. As for which model of amp to get, that will depend if this is as far as you want to go with subs or if you might want to upgrade the subs in the future.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Mike, As far as whether or not to be wanting to upgrade the subs in the future is something I really cannot give an honest answer to at this point until I see whether or not I am able to achieve the desired results with the W-6's. If that achieved goal can be met then I would see no need to upgrade further. I have always been one that as long as it works for me and I am happy then all is well. , I even like the old Cerwin Vega home speakers but maybe we best leave that one alone! lol!

I personally would rather run an amp that gives me ample headroom that I am not constantly stressing during normal daily operation to meet its goals as I seem to have found over the years that the equipment ran at say 65- 70% of rated output usually has a much longer lifespan and you stay into a cleaner power output as well.

From what I am hearing here, I think I will give building a couple of boxes for the JL's a shot. Since I already have the subs then what do I have to lose other than some time and a few sheets of mdf.

So by using the criteria of really no idea about the future upgrade potentials but I will need to purchase an amp regardless what would you suggest that would fit my current needs but still leave some room for some later upgrade if needed?
 

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Not to argue with Mike, but I see a 4" port as a bit small for this sub. Maybe at his volumes it won't really matter though.

This sub is very sensitive and easy to drive. Impressive output at 300w considering.
 

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I am not a huge fan of the EP-2500 but they do get used a lot. :) I suggest looking at a Crown XLS. :R
Once you get past the 4" port lengths become problematic. If it were me I would use a 4" port flared at both end.

Matt
 

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I am not a huge fan of the EP-2500 but they do get used a lot. :) I suggest looking at a Crown XLS. :R
Once you get past the 4" port lengths become problematic. If it were me I would use a 4" port flared at both end.

Matt
Folding a port is really not a difficult task. Though a slot port is a bit more complex. I find them to be very effective with many subs. plus they gve you a nice place to put a 4" sheet of rockwool close to the driver. Since you can mount a brace across the port. Plus you don't need to buy any port material since you can make it yourself.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Thanks for all the input here so far, As previously stated I have decided to give these drivers a go and see what they are capable of doing. Now when it comes to designing the best box for this application I do not have a clue so if any of you fine guru's here that have such knowledge find yourself to be bored please feel free to tell me what to build and the correct layout. I can't design it but I can follow the layout and put it together pretty well!

Normally my listening volumns will be on the side of loud enough to bring out the details of the track and to sound somewhat as if you were there. I have been known on occasion to crank it as well if that makes any difference. I will be incorporating a lot of stuff I already have as I sort of cobble this system together on the cheap using some componants which I already have available, for now anyway.

The front mains will be a set of floor standing speakers with 12" woofers and the rear surrounds will be a matched set (as far as make and series) with 10" woofers both set to tweeters at ear level. As far as the reciever sort of leaning towards a new last years model Yamaha 863 and will probably use either an Adcom 455 or Sony 55es to power the front mains and use the reciever amps for the center and surrounds.

Do not really even know but thought maybe having some idea of the basic set up for the rest of the system may help with choosing the best tuning ratio or curve for the subs.

As far as the amp is concerned I realize that the Behringer amp is not at the same level as the crown but it seems that many people are pleased with their performance on a cost to performance ratio. Aren't the crown amps quite a bit more expensive?

Thanks again for all the help, even us poor guys like to get the best sound available within our budget.
 

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It's easier than you think to design a box. Here's a link to the calculators that you'll need.

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/enclosure-volume-calculator/

Make one length (inside measurement) of the box 21 inches to allow enough room from the end of the port to the panel of the sub.

Behringer amps do the job well for subs. Don't forget you will need a high pass filter.
 

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I had a 15W6 in my car years ago and loved it. I used it in a sealed box in my car and music sounded great with it.

I would suggest going ahead and building a box for it because it wouldn't cost that much. 1 or 2 sheets of mdf will set you back less than $30 each. Add in the glue and ports and you may be up to $80 or $100 total for both. You'll like what you hear from them. If you want more, we can feed you more (options).
 
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