Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

1 - 15 of 15 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
Hello all I am new to this site from over the pond

I have four Kicker CompVR 15" woofers that I took out of my US Truck that was imported. Initially, I figured I would sell them but I thought I might be able to use them for HT woofers.

I am a complete novice to woofers, however have built many things using wood and have almost all the tools I would need to make one. I just need to know more info on where to start (I was thinking ported):

Is one enough? (I have 4..........)
Box size for 1?
Box design? (I was going to make a large footstool for the sofa which had this built into it. Down facing sub and vent)
Amp needed?

Here are the specs of a woofer:

RMS Power Handling: 500W
Voice Coil: Dual 4 ohm
Freq Response: 25-500 Hz
Sensitivity: 89.1 dB
Fs: 20.8
Xmax: 12.5


Thanks in advance
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
155 Posts
I"ll attempt to answer since I was here at one point as well although, I've been out of it awhile and not near as intelligent on the topic as alot of guys here. I went with a owned fosgate on my first (Far from last) build. Since you have the sub, it's a great starting point but, if you catch the bug you will be swapping it out quickly. The big name brand car audio subs are designed (especially kicker) for SPL around 30hz and not much else. Moving to a sub designed for home theater is a huge difference in sound quality.

I'm surprised at the FS you have listed for the kicker. I would have expected much higher. If you obtain the rest of the T/S param's the sub can be modeled with software to determine the ideal box size. For that sub, the cabinet will most likely be very large if you go vented, it will be required for any low end.

As for multiples, I would stick with a single. Seems you enjoy wood working, I"ll bet you will upgrade sooner rather than later and dual subs will just increase material cost and you will be stuck with a very big cabinet if you go ported. Of course sealed is an option at the sacrifice of low end. The other half of that the dual 4 ohm is an issue. Most plate amps will be 4 ohm stable requiring you to wire 2 subs. I'd go with a Dayton or Bash plate amp (Subwoofer Plate Amplifiers - Parts Express) from parts express.

If it were me, simply due to the fact they are 4ohm dvc...I'd attempt to sell them at a deal, purchase a nice 4ohm, 15", HT sub and build from there.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Koopa,

Many thanks in getting back to me. I was toying with the idea of selling them but in the UK with 15 inch subs there is little market so they would be going for peanuts... that said they are wasted just sat in the garage.

I got the Fs rating off a website and since looking at a different one it is stating 26.15 which I assume is more like what it should be due to being for cars. I must say I am on YouTube a lot just trying to understanding all the terms and technical information.

I think as I am making the effort to design this I might sell up and get a proper HT sub. I will investigate more and update.

Many thanks
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
I took my Kicker 08S15L74 from a BP4 in 96 Ranger SuperCab to a T-TQWT ( negative flare tapped horn) for my HT. It's still going strong from 2013. There is thread on diyaudio.com where someone built a TQWP (straight flare tapped horn) for your speaker around the same time frame.

from Handset_20090701083502_218.jpeg
9292624.jpg
from Handset_20120103120908_61.jpg
20190215_214555.jpg
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Thanks for the response. Sorry but what does a BP4 and T-TQWT mean?

So i have had more thoughts and if I decide I use my original kicker but then change it for a HT sub of the same size would I have to make loads of changes or just tweek things to make it suit?

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
BP4 = sealed bandpass = sealed enclosure firing in to a ported enclosure.

T-TQWT = Tapered Tapped Quarter Wave Tube or pipe = negative flare tapped horn.

TQWP = Tapped Quarter Wave Pipe or tube = straight flare tapped horn.

Tapped Horn = series tuned BP6 with positive flare ports = ported enclosure firing into another ported enclosure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
Adjust size for tuning. Low tuning requires a huge port. Tapped horns are 1 big port or the port is the enclosure.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
4 Posts
Discussion Starter #8
For the amp am I right in thinking it needs to be close to 500w as the sub has an DVC RMS of 500w so the amp has to be either a 2 ohm (parallel wired) or 8 ohm (series wired). What will happen if I get a 4 ohm amp?

Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
I'm running my sub amp in dual 4 ohm mono. Each channel is wired to each coil. The amp is getting both LFE signals from the AVR.... 5.2.2 Dolby Atmos.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
8 Posts
Hello all I am new to this site from over the pond

I have four Kicker CompVR 15" woofers that I took out of my US Truck that was imported. Initially, I figured I would sell them but I thought I might be able to use them for HT woofers.

I am a complete novice to woofers, however have built many things using wood and have almost all the tools I would need to make one. I just need to know more info on where to start (I was thinking ported):

Is one enough? (I have 4..........)
Box size for 1?
Box design? (I was going to make a large footstool for the sofa which had this built into it. Down facing sub and vent)
Amp needed?

Here are the specs of a woofer:

RMS Power Handling: 500W
Voice Coil: Dual 4 ohm
Freq Response: 25-500 Hz
Sensitivity: 89.1 dB
Fs: 20.8
Xmax: 12.5


Thanks in advance
The specs you provided aren't really sufficient for building in home subwoofer enclosures. If you can obtain the actual Thiele/Small parameters, then you can easily design any number of different subwoofer enclosures. As far as amps are concerned, when it comes to power, one can never have enough, but what you really need are amps capable of delivering a lot of current. Like the other gentleman mentioned, plate amps are a good way to go, since most of them already have a low pass filter built in.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
19 Posts
I reckon car subs are great for HT. I've done 2 ported Alpine Type R 15" builds...


SWR-1522D

Test%20fit.jpg

and

SWR-1540

Measure.jpg

Recently I built a tapped horn using one of Brian Steeles DIY Subwoofer Box Planners. This works great with an Alpine SWS-15D4 and an old school Celestion AD15H car sub....

Ground plane measurements small.jpg Build interior small.jpg Drivers small.jpg

You should be able to find the Kicker spec sheet which will give you its complete T&S specs.

Plug them into WinISD or similar application and design a box that will work for you. Ported would be a good/simple way to get started. Enjoy!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
270 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
99 Posts
In its simplest form, a tapped horn is 7 board enclosure just like a ported box. Just think, a 7th piece can turn a ported enclosure into a BP6S (series tuned 6th order bandpass horn) with a 6db gain.
 
1 - 15 of 15 Posts
Top