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Never knew that. What does he say about not stacking them? Putting them in different locations for example.

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As far as I know he has never said not to. He just always member to place them stacked in a corner primarily a back corner away from openings. That way you get the 3D pulsar effect that he designed.
 

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Well, if there's a function that's built in to the design, you might as well do what you can. I'm not super familiar with KK's designs so I don't know about the 3D pulsar thing.


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I've been watching more and more movies and the subs deliver fantastically. I get the tactile feeling at MLP like never before. I just can't go to loud because I get a pop sound but only from time to time depending on the material and only happens with audyssey engaged.
I had the same issue with one sub and thought two would take care of that but I guess not.
I'm thinking audyssey is boosting something somehow.
I do have the Onkyo 805 and that could be the issue since it's old without DEQ compared to a newer receiver that has DEQ.



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I ran REW because one of my dxd 12012 had less output then the other I figured one fuse was bad. Each dxd had 2 amps and 2 fuses. The fuses are ok because I checked them.
Ken asked me to hear the subs for 2 sounds as each amp powers on and off I should be able to hear 2 sounds. With the bad sub I only hear 1 thump not like the other that has 2 thumps.
Having said that can one amp be bad since I only hear one thump even if the fuses are ok?
Again per Ken I should be able to hear 2 thumps as the subs power on and off.
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You can absolutely have a bad amp with a good fuse. There's a whole lot that can go wrong when amplifying a signal.
 

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I checked the cables from the amp to the drivers and they were connected. I even played music and both drivers were vibrating.

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If you have been inside the amp to check the cables you should have been able to check the internal fuses.
Did you do this?
 

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Now Ken mentioned that a fuse can look good but still be bad. Has anyone experienced this before?

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Now Ken mentioned that a fuse can look good but still be bad. Has anyone experienced this before?
I have. To know for sure you need to check it with a meter because the wire can appear intact, when in reality it's not.
 

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I have. To know for sure you need to check it with a meter because the wire can appear intact, when in reality it's not.
From what I've read using ohm meter I need to place the meter on the highest setting of 200m and with the fuse taken out measure the fuse, correct?

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From what I've read using ohm meter I need to place the meter on the highest setting of 200m and with the fuse taken out measure the fuse, correct?
Most meters have a setting for continuity, sometimes called a diode test. It usually has an audio tone when you have a complete circuit. That's what I use on my Fluke.
 

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Most meters have a setting for continuity, sometimes called a diode test. It usually has an audio tone when you have a complete circuit. That's what I use on my Fluke.
I did continuity and it beeped and the numbers fluctuated really fast up and down.

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Not sure why the numbers would fluctuate, but you won't hear a beep on an open circuit so the fuse is good.
I checked the wires again and nothing is loose. I contacted the amp manufacturer and waiting to hear back.

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Ok guys, I recently bought a second dxd-12012 to get the 3D effect. I placed them stacked and ran REW. Sure enough the new sub had a much better output. I did the test combined and separate. In fact the newer one has better output than when it was combined.
I did the test by turning the subs on and off to hear each amp come on and off as each sub has 2 amps.
Anyhow it turned out all this time one of the subs driver wasn't on because the amp was not working. Fuses all look good too.
When I had the one sub it always lost output and I blamed it on room size. Having the second one to compare I have really missed out all this time. Thankfully the amp is going to be serviced.

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