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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Well, I had a spare driver sitting around from a Klipsch RW-12d and I've always wanted to take a shot at a Sonosub build, so here it starts...

I don't know any real specs on the driver itself, just what the specs were for the complete RW-12d sub and know how it performed as I used to have two of them. I played around with WinISD and Sonotube.exe and came up with something that I think will do well, and if it doesn't (or I blow it), I could drop something like a TC Epic into :). I am trying to make this look as close to my PC12-NSD's as I can. I found that Parts-Express had the same top grill that SVS uses and I'll be wrapping the sub with velvet as well. As for an amp, I was looking at the Oaudio 500w amps installed in a separate box. For now, I'll see how my PE BASH 300S does with it.

I was able to find a concrete place that not only had tubes in stock, but they cut it to order. I can't say I was unhappy about that as they not only cut it to the size I wanted, but the cuts are pretty clean and square! So after picking that up yesterday, I went over to Home Depot and picked up some wood and other items. I picked up a jig today and borrowed a friend's router and went to town.

Final design.






The end caps will be a total of 2". 2 layers of 3/4" MDF and 1 layer of 1/2 Birch plywood. I will install everything using Hurricane Nuts for easy removal of parts if I ever need to modify.








The flush mounted port is a little low, but I expect the gasket will raise it up to look more flush.




It's -9 out right now and was too cold in the day to cut outside, so I cut in the garage... I've had better ideas. My STi looks like it just completed a rally. :)

I do plan to line the walls with some cheap egg crate looking stuff found at Wal-Mart and probably some insulation at the top of the sub around the port. One question I had is what glue is recommended for installing the end caps? I was planning on Liquid Nails, is that a good choice?
 

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I've built a sonosub like this before. Using a beefy OEM polk 8 Ohm driver, and a Klipsch Sub10 amp. Mabey not a great mix of components, but in a smallish room that thing will dig deep! Surprised me actually. Anyway to your question, yes liquid nails seems to be the prefered choice of sonotubers.

It looks like you have provided your Port endcap with a lip to rest on the outer lip of the sonotube, but are you doing the same for the subwoofer endcap? I doubt the wieght of the sonotube, port, and upper endcap would be enough wieght to cause any slipping if the bottom endcap is glues well, but its a thought. Reason I ask is cause from the pics it looks like the bottom cap is just a plug that fits into the sonotube with nothing to support the tubes weight when upright. Also after you get them glued in you can run a bead of caulk around the inside edges where the endcaps meet against the tube wall. Probably overkill in this kinda project, but at least that way you know the only air leaking is coming out the port.

I've heard both ways that lining the inside of your tube with egg crate, poly fill, or others either helps, or makes no difference. The only difference it would make is by the top endcap, but it sounds like you already plan on doing that with insulation. So as far as lining the sides, I say it's fine to try it either way. I lined mine for cause I'm big on overkill. Figured it couldn't hurt.
 

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Skip the eggcrate, it's been said it has no effect. Liquid Nails or any wood glue like Elmers will work well. There should be a transparent release film on the inside of the tube, make sure you peel it off as no glue will stick to it. The tube volume is a bit big compared to the volume of the RW-12d box, go easy on the sub until you find its limits, especially with the default subsonic filter on the Bash 300 which is 17.7 hz.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've built a sonosub like this before. Using a beefy OEM polk 8 Ohm driver, and a Klipsch Sub10 amp. Mabey not a great mix of components, but in a smallish room that thing will dig deep! Surprised me actually. Anyway to your question, yes liquid nails seems to be the prefered choice of sonotubers.
Liquid Nails it is!

It looks like you have provided your Port endcap with a lip to rest on the outer lip of the sonotube, but are you doing the same for the subwoofer endcap? I doubt the wieght of the sonotube, port, and upper endcap would be enough wieght to cause any slipping if the bottom endcap is glues well, but its a thought. Reason I ask is cause from the pics it looks like the bottom cap is just a plug that fits into the sonotube with nothing to support the tubes weight when upright. Also after you get them glued in you can run a bead of caulk around the inside edges where the endcaps meet against the tube wall. Probably overkill in this kinda project, but at least that way you know the only air leaking is coming out the port.
On both end caps, the 1/2" plywood is the same diameter as the OD on the tube. I did this to not only get a flush mount in the speaker, but for strength one the ends (opposed to MDF taking a hit from a child). I think I will also finish MDF veneer with something fairly dark so when the grill is off, or you look at the driver end, it will look 'higer end'. :) For the most part, I am building this just like my SVS cylinder subs. I saw that mine have plywood on the end of their caps matching the OD of the tube.

All 3 layers of the end cap will be glued together prior to final placement into the tube. For mounting in the tube, I will use the Liquid Nails inside the tube and on the end of the tube. I also plan on caulking the inside corner. I've gotten into a habbit of that with subwoofer builds.

I've heard both ways that lining the inside of your tube with egg crate, poly fill, or others either helps, or makes no difference. The only difference it would make is by the top endcap, but it sounds like you already plan on doing that with insulation. So as far as lining the sides, I say it's fine to try it either way. I lined mine for cause I'm big on overkill. Figured it couldn't hurt.
Skip the eggcrate, it's been said it has no effect. Liquid Nails or any wood glue like Elmers will work well. There should be a transparent release film on the inside of the tube, make sure you peel it off as no glue will stick to it. The tube volume is a bit big compared to the volume of the RW-12d box, go easy on the sub until you find its limits, especially with the default subsonic filter on the Bash 300 which is 17.7 hz.
I picked up some cheap egg crate stuff today, although I could find the tradional egg crate shape, so this has all kinds of weird patterns. Some say it work, others say it doesn't... It was under $10. I will pull the liner off the ID of the tube where the glue will need to contact for the end caps, although I'd imagine Liquid Nails would still stick to it.

IIRC, the volume difference between this and the RW-12d box is ~1cu/ft. Curiousity has me wondering what'll do in this box. The original one chuffed and creaked too much. I always go easy on things until I get a good feel of them. :T
 

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Nice work man. Wish I had a router when I did mine. I love the cones on those subs. wish I had a couple woofers from them to build something. What type of finish are you planing on doing.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
The router (and jig) really help getting things right. I do like the copper colored woofers, so hopefully the sound is what I'm looking for. As for the finish on the end caps, I was thinking something like this... Maybe darker. I would like it dark enough that it doesn't stand out under the grill, but a good enough to look at with the grill off or if someone peaks at the woofer.



For the tube, I was going to have the wife do a copy of the SVS sock with the same material. The base plate and legs will probably go to eD for coating.
 

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On both end caps, the 1/2" plywood is the same diameter as the OD on the tube.
Yeah now that I looked at the picture better I think I can see the lip on it lol. With the lips being flush with the tube I can see how it will look like the SVS's. Keep up the good work, and keep the pics coming! :clap:
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
That is going to look really nice. I love that stain color. Or a Bombay Mahogany. A nice deep dark red.
Thanks, I'm hoping it'll look decent. I originally wasn't planning on staining, but I just think it would look better with a nice dark finish.

Yeah now that I looked at the picture better I think I can see the lip on it lol. With the lips being flush with the tube I can see how it will look like the SVS's. Keep up the good work, and keep the pics coming! :clap:
Thanks! I'll keep posting them here. :) I probably looked at every sono build in this section of the board already.

Got a chance to do a little more work on my build today. I'm going to get the other baffle glued tomorrow and then go use a drill press to drill my holes and install Hurricane Nuts.





With the gasket on the port, it sits just a tad high. Screwing it down should make it flush.


Couldn't find the "egg crate" stuff, but this should work. It's a bit more dense than the old egg crate stuff I have for my blow up matress which I purchased about 8 years ago.



Couple of questions... I know a lot of people use about 6" of fiberglass on the port end, but I really hate that . Anyone know of an alternative that won't be so nasty and is nearly as good. I've been searching the web, but I haven't really found anything.

Also, I've seen some like to dampen the port as well. I have quite a bit of extra Dynamat from a computer build and was wondering if it would be beneficial to stick that on the OD of the port and then wrap with some more of the foam. Any thoughts?
 

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Thats the exact stuff I lined the inside of mine with lol. As far as the end stuffing goes, you may be able to get away with stacking several layers of the same stuff you used for the lining the inside of the tube. Thats what I did, and I have never noticed any unwanted resonances. I just took the top endcap, flipped it over with the port attached facing up in the air. Then cut about 7 or 8 (cant remember exact number) pieces of that matress stuff the same diameter as the inner portionof the endcap. Then I cut a Plus Sign --> "+" shaped hole in the middle of each, and slipped them over the port stacking them against the top of the endcap. The reason I cut a + shape was just so there would be that little bit more friction to hold them at the top instead of slipping down and falling. For overkill I also sprayed some 3M spray adhesive between each layer, and a little on the area of the port where each layer would touch. I pressed them down to where they would be nice and tight against the endacap. Sorry for this novel I'm writing, but I'm big on detail, and I didn't take any pics of that build.

As far as lining the port goes, I've never dealt with Dynamat before. If it were me I would probably just wrap the port tightly with a sheet of felt. As far as how much to use, you might have to ask someone else. I've never lined the outside of a port, but it's something I'm going to do on my next sub build.

Hope this helps!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I did a dry fitment to make sure everything fits nicely (which it does) and fired up the sub as I couldn't wait to hear if this Klipsch driver was worth the work. I can say that it has completely exceeded my expectations. Even with leaks, having the port held in by tape and the sub just resting in place, the sound is clean, smooth and has lots of output.

I ran it for a day in a room by itself and was blown away by the performance. Yesterday a buddy and I moved it into the rear of my theater to play with my two PC12-NSD's and it goes very well with those subs. It not only gave me more bass in my room, but it filled many of the dead spots and moved the sound I've been missing to my seating area.

I'd say this hangs right there with my SVS subs and at roughly $75 so far, I can't complain! I was playing some test tones in the 20-50hz range with all three subs and it sounded weird to talk, found all kinds of new rattles, caused my projector to vibrate and the table above the theater was walking a few things across it. :)





 

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Nice build and well looking, what are you going to do to finish the sonotube? Paint or carpet or other?

Is eggcrate the thing you put on bed to make it more comfortable? I didn't though that such "conventional" material could be used in subwoofer building. Even if Mike said some say that it work other don't for about 5-10$ for one it's hard to not put one inside.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Right now the plan is to finish it with velvet to look just like the SVS subs I have. I'll have to find a way to smooth out the spiral on the exterior as they'll show through just a layer of velvet. I would also like to coat the outside of the tube in something to make it more water resistant.

Yes, the egg crate stuff is just that foam you put on top of a bed to make it more comfortable. The one I picked up for this is more dense than the old one I had from about 8 years ago.
 

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looking good so far,so do you think this made a vast improvment,compared to the factory box? i have one and if the wife wont let me spend money on a new sub i want to build a different box for mine.:T
 

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Discussion Starter #17
looking good so far,so do you think this made a vast improvment,compared to the factory box? i have one and if the wife wont let me spend money on a new sub i want to build a different box for mine.:T
I'll quote my buddy Mike from what he said yesterday...

"That sub makes the old Klipsch package sound like a toy".

IMHO, it is a MAJOR improvement to the original box. I've got another RW-12d woofer, so I'm going to build a second one when this is done, but since I'm finally happy with the sound in my room, it'll go on Craigslist.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I'm nearing the home stretch for getting it put together. I bought 1" x 6' doweling and thought I could cut it to fit, but my saw just won't get the cut square enough for me feel comfortable using for legs.





Here's what I'm using to be able to position the sub just about anywhere I want in the room. It works just as well as I hoped!
 
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