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Discussion Starter #21
looking good so far,so do you think this made a vast improvment,compared to the factory box? i have one and if the wife wont let me spend money on a new sub i want to build a different box for mine.:T
I was thinking about this the other day... If you still have the RW-12d, you could probably make this work out pretty well. Since it has the digital controls on top, you could internally mount the amp and mount the digital control on the top giving you full control. You'll have to find a place on the bottom to extend the LFE input and power, but it would be a complete powered sub with a cool, functional display on top.

I'm not sure what the HPF is set at on the Klipsch amp, but I'd imagine it is low enough to work well.

Just a thought...
 

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I was thinking about this the other day... If you still have the RW-12d, you could probably make this work out pretty well. Since it has the digital controls on top, you could internally mount the amp and mount the digital control on the top giving you full control. You'll have to find a place on the bottom to extend the LFE input and power, but it would be a complete powered sub with a cool, functional display on top.

I'm not sure what the HPF is set at on the Klipsch amp, but I'd imagine it is low enough to work well.

Just a thought...
i also was thinkin about that but,so i can extend just speaker wire,doing a seprate box for the amp and control, puttin it closer to my rec so i can adjust it with my harmony.:D. but it's on hold till i can find a place around me that carries sono, and wantin a pj setup first.
 

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That will look awesome with the legs anodized the same color. Too bad the driver will be hidden from view. Because between the legs, the nice looking endcap, and the good looks of the driver it's going to look like something you would want to show off!
 

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Discussion Starter #27
That will look awesome with the legs anodized the same color. Too bad the driver will be hidden from view. Because between the legs, the nice looking endcap, and the good looks of the driver it's going to look like something you would want to show off!
Thanks, I know it's going to be hidden, but I gotta do something with the end cap, right? :) I've had several people here locally tell me I should keep the legs silver... Decisions....


Got the wood stained and poly'd. I'm going to give it a few days to set up and then glue the ends and throw some weight on them.





And the part that that looks nice, but won't be seen... :(

 

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Discussion Starter #29 (Edited)
I've got a little more forward progress on the sub. The end caps are done and one is installed. I sanded down the spiral overlapping on the exterior of the tube the put on 5 coats of polyurethane to seal and strengthen the tube. The exterior actually turned out very nice and will be easy to cover in fabric now without anything showing through.

I currently have it drying from applying polyurethane to the interior of th tube. I wanted to seal it from any moisture/humidity and the added strength is nice. I'll likely do 5 coats here as well. I tried pulling of the plastic lining inside, but it wasn't coming off very easy and it wanted to pull more and more paper with it as I went along. I was able to get it off on one end, but for the other end, I just sanded it off as it was easier.

Here are a few pics:

Before sanding and coating.



After.



As of now.











I took this pic to reference size :)

 

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Discussion Starter #30
Now I got that I have the interior of the tube all sealed up and the end caps glued on. Both my 1/2" plywood boards (top/bottome) didn't exactly center up with the MDF and I knew it would give me some more work when I got to this point.

Because I'm trying to make this look like my SVS, I only want to put a single layer of velvet on the sub and want it to be smooth. Since the endcaps both over hang one direction 1/16" (or less), I need some type of filler that will adhere to the polyurethane finish and glue, does anyone have recommendations for this? All I want to do is build it up and smooth it out into the tube so you wan't notice anything when the sock is on. I should have done like SVS and made the caps just slightly smaller than the OD of the tube and center it... I'd be only needing the sock at that point if I had.

I tried to use the glue to smooth it out... But that didn't turn out like I hoped.

As always, I love pics:










When I build another one, it'll be much faster, I've figured it all out now.
 

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looking good still watching and waiting, hurry up!!!!!!! j/k cant wait to hear listenin impressions after its all sealed up and done. looking for sono around my area now but not having any luck.
 

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Ooh! I'm going to rip off your idea! (I hope that''s okay)

I have a Klipsch RW-12D with a bad power supply. Plugged into a 220-110V transformer which was plugged into a German outlet with hot and neutral reversed (German plugs can go either way). Not sure how it matters, but it does apparently. Anyhow, I was hoping the OAudio amp would be a 1:1 swap as far as the mounting holes are concerned... it is not.

Soooooo... sure, I could get a piece of wood, fit it into the larger hole where the Klipsch amp went, cut a hole in it, and make it fit... but I want to DIY some 15" TCSound drivers into a LLT sonotube, and this would be great practice! (Never did a DIY sub before...)

Eagerly anticipating the finished product and measurements! :T
 

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Discussion Starter #34
Ooh! I'm going to rip off your idea! (I hope that''s okay)

I have a Klipsch RW-12D with a bad power supply. Plugged into a 220-110V transformer which was plugged into a German outlet with hot and neutral reversed (German plugs can go either way). Not sure how it matters, but it does apparently. Anyhow, I was hoping the OAudio amp would be a 1:1 swap as far as the mounting holes are concerned... it is not.

Soooooo... sure, I could get a piece of wood, fit it into the larger hole where the Klipsch amp went, cut a hole in it, and make it fit... but I want to DIY some 15" TCSound drivers into a LLT sonotube, and this would be great practice! (Never did a DIY sub before...)

Eagerly anticipating the finished product and measurements! :T
I think you'll like the sub MUCH better in a Sonosub build compared to the old port chuffing/creaking box.


Awesome build and very nice job!!!
Thank you. I'm currently filling some spots and sanding them down to ensure the fabric on the outside looks smooth and uniform when I put it on.
 

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:eek: That looks awesome! You should put a $2999.95 price tag on it and tell everybody that's how much you paid for it, as it looks like something from a boutique store!

Some questions for you... where did you source the grill and the port? I could use something like that to get mine to look professional. I have a kid who is just over a year old, so I definitely want to put something over the top... I can't imagine what a collection of toys dropped inside the enclosure would do to the driver... :blink: My other fear is having a toy or something find it's way underneath the driver. I wonder if there is a way to surround the bottom of the sub... Perhaps make it with 8 legs, and stretch some speaker grill around it? :ponder:
 

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Discussion Starter #37 (Edited)
:eek: That looks awesome! You should put a $2999.95 price tag on it and tell everybody that's how much you paid for it, as it looks like something from a boutique store!

Some questions for you... where did you source the grill and the port? I could use something like that to get mine to look professional. I have a kid who is just over a year old, so I definitely want to put something over the top... I can't imagine what a collection of toys dropped inside the enclosure would do to the driver... :blink: My other fear is having a toy or something find it's way underneath the driver. I wonder if there is a way to surround the bottom of the sub... Perhaps make it with 8 legs, and stretch some speaker grill around it? :ponder:
Haha, thanks. I'm trying to make it look like something you'd buy.

I got both the grille and port from Parts-Express. The grille is actually the same as SVS uses and I just happened to come across it when browsing the site. You can find the grille at http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=269-972. They have smaller sizes as well. The port is made by Precision Port and can be found at http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=268-352. They also have different diameters available.

As far as protecting the bottom where the sub is, you might try this: http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/sealed-subwoofer-build-projects/43162-sealed-sono-3.html
 

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Still looking better every time I come back here. Looks very professional! Glad that driver worked out better in the sonotube too. I've always wondered what a decent Klipsch sub driver would do in a DIY enclosure. I almost pulled the trigger on one of the 12" Klipsch buyout drivers Parts Express had on sale for a while. They were drivers for the subs that come with thier THX Ultra II set up. I just couldn't justify the $200 price tag for a 12" sub that may not perform well out of it's home though.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Still looking better every time I come back here. Looks very professional! Glad that driver worked out better in the sonotube too. I've always wondered what a decent Klipsch sub driver would do in a DIY enclosure. I almost pulled the trigger on one of the 12" Klipsch buyout drivers Parts Express had on sale for a while. They were drivers for the subs that come with thier THX Ultra II set up. I just couldn't justify the $200 price tag for a 12" sub that may not perform well out of it's home though.
Thank you for the compliment!

I had high hopes for the driver, but was prepared to make it work with another driver if it didn't. My buddy and I gave it some work today and I really am impressed. When actually owned the RW-12d, I don't think I ever made the driver move as much as I've pushed this today. I'm still a little amazed at the excursion this driver has. With the RW-12d, when you really started making the driver move, it was always accompanied by other unwanted noises that made you think you were going to blow the sub.

I ran a CD of test tones I downloaded off of one of the acoustic panel sites (forget which one at the moment) which consists of 10hz on up... I played 10hz - 50hz tones through it many times today and at 15hz, it REALLY starts shaking things... ABSOLUTELY SHAKING things. Not only everything in the room (11.5' x 25'), but I went up stairs and over a room (not above the sub) and things on the granite dining room table were rattling, no joke. I think it might have been shaking things on the second floor as well.

I need to run this side-by-side with one of my SVS... My buddy seems to think that the Klipsch sono will give it a run for its money... He actually thinks it *might* be a tad better (I surprised him with the "Skadoosh" scene:)). I'll pick up an external sound card for my netbook and compare with REW.

I will have to say that although I didn't know any specs on the driver, I modeled it using the specs from an older Infinity Kappa Perfect 12.1 subwoofer as, aside from the basket, it seemed to be similar. It seems to have worked. I also think I'll do fine with a 300w BASH, so I'll order another as this one is currently on loan from one of my other subs.

I've been testing it in another room (minus the kid) without the other subs to break it in and get a feel for it. It's still missing the sock and grille... And the base plate needs finished, but I like it! I really need to play with sub positioning as right now, this subs sounds better in this room I have it in by itself, than my 2x SVS or 2x SVS + this sub in my theater (rooms are pretty much the same dimension).

 

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Very nice! Glad to hear it is performing well, and hopefully I can get the same results.

Realtraps.com is the website that has the sweeps CD, if anybody is interested. Just be careful playing sine waves at high volumes for prolonged periods... you could melt the voice coil as sine waves are extremely stressful. If you want to play sine waves at the limits, give the driver breaks so it can cool down...
 
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