I think I've found myself in a similar situation. my amp on a Klipsch sub-12 appears to seen its last movie. I'm thinking of taking the driver out and constructing a sonosub. were you ever able to find the Klipsch driver properties for modeling?
Okay, so it's been 5 years and I just finally took the base plate off to finish it. The sub was mostly hidden and sounds good, so I never got around to finishing the base plate. Since I'll be moving this year, I won't be doing a theater again as it hardly ever got used. I sold off a good bit of my stuff, including my SVS subs but I am hanging on to this as I'll need at least one sub in the living room and I think this one looks so much better and performed just a good as the SVS I had.
Anyway, I actually work with someone from this board that had some DuraTex left over from his builds and since I didn't need a bunch, I 'borrowed' some from him. It took a few more coats than I wanted, but getting the stuff to stick to the drywall spackle from a few filled holes and getting a good finish took a little bit of time.
The tube volume is a bit big compared to the volume of the RW-12d box, go easy on the sub until you find its limits, especially with the default subsonic filter on the Bash 300 which is 17.7 hz.][/QUOTE]
[IIRC, the volume difference between this and the RW-12d box is ~1cu/ft. Curiousity has me wondering what'll do in this box. The original one chuffed and creaked too much. I always go easy on things until I get a good feel of them.][/QUOTE]
Hello Jason, Mike P,,
Please pardon my digression and I know this thread has been long in the making (and a very lovely job too!) but I would want to know more about the worries when box volume is larger than usual. Is it overexcursion with bottoming out? If so can't WinISD predict this on the cone excursion plot? What about EBS and LLT designs? Is low tuning sufficient protection or do you have to worry about how far you can go on the amp?
Thank you Toffkanda. I can't say for sure, but I'd imagine the larger the box, the more cone movement you'll get for a given amount of power. As far as WinISD, I didn't have any data on the driver, so I winged it a bit. But with the data, it should be able to predict subwoofer behavior. The BASH amp I use has an ~18hz HPF and the tune is between 19-20hz, which does help with keeping the woofer from getting out of control below the tuning point.
Excellent build, exquisite finishing! This is one of the most profitable outcomes I've seen, my criteria for profitability being as low an extension in as small a volume as possible with reasonable SPL and musicality achieved in the process. That's a novice talking!
I didn't think an old 13 pound 12 inch driver in a 4cuft enclosure could go flat to 14 hz. I thought you needed sophisticated drivers for that. Personally I have a great bias for ported low extension.
Your DIY Sub provokes envy.
Thank you again. I was pretty focused on making it look good as well as sound good. Since I'll be moving and giving up a theater, I will move this into a living room setting in the new house and need my wife to approve of a sub sitting in the living room. I will be going from 3 subs to 1, which will be tough, but I'll get over it if I can get it place well. I did have high hopes from the sub driver seeing how it performed in a less than stellar box from Klipsch (plastic creaking and LOTS of port chuff), but was really happy that it turned out as well as it did. If I ever get my hands on a driver from an RT-12d, I might swap that in and see how it does. I did finally weigh it last night... It came in at 52lbs.
I do realize these days that this isn't a "big" sub, but it really fits my liking (I'm more of a music guy). I was happy with three subs performing on this level. I've heard theaters with massive subs that would make shut doors sound like their repeatedly getting slammed shut and did not like it. That said, this is plenty big enough and the quality of bass is quite good.
My sub turns out to be about the same height as an SVS PC12-Plus, so in light of moving, I was able to get a box for it to more easily transport it.
Just a comparison shot of a sub my dad and I build a little over 20 years ago. Not really a "sub", but it does put out some good bass and we copied a Bose Accoustimass module (measured a clear model in stores) and made it bigger with bigger drivers. About 5 years ago, I cut out the back, upgraded the drivers, the port, and put a plate amp on it.
"I did finally weigh it last night... It came in at 52lbs.
I do realize these days that this isn't a "big" sub, but it really fits my liking (I'm more of a music guy). I was happy with three subs performing on this level. I've heard theaters with massive subs that would make shut doors sound like their repeatedly getting slammed shut and did not like it. That said, this is plenty big enough and the quality of bass is quite good"
52 pounds! I worked with a pair of 12 inch drivers recently each 31 pounds unpacked. Yours is an admirably lightweight sub. I live in a world where its seen as crazy to build a 16cuft soundbox. People are only truly amazed when small boxes do great things. Then again the general perception of good bass is the punchy 40-80hz range. For me I tend towards drivers suitable for flat FR down to 20hz (with a bit of infrasonics) in boxes of around 2cuft. A sonosub is a small footprint setup. It would have been beautiful if you could have two in your new home for smoother room response and a little bit more SPL.