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Discussion Starter #1
So I have the screen mounted on pegboard just like the little video suggests. The question is...Do I mount it to the wall first, then project an image, THEN put on the velvet tape? Or... Do I mark off a 16:9 rectangle (8x4.5) on the screen THEN velvet tape it and then hang it?

If you've done this, I'd appreciate your feedback.

Thanks!
 

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I made the screen complete before hanging it back when I used a laminate - including the velvet border. Snd then I hung it. If you calculate and measure properly you shouldn't have to use much, if any, lens shift. :T
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Update: Measured, taped and then hung. Worked perfectly! Any idea what is the best way to clean it up?
 

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Yes, clean the screen. Sorry I wasn't more clear. I used Windex but I guess I'll just use a clean, damp cloth from now on.

Man, I can't believe the difference in picture between this new formica screen and the old goo screen. Just beautiful and bright!
 

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Rancho5 - Just wondering how the laminate over pegboard solution is working out?

I've read some posts noting various mounting methods for laminate not working out in the long run - most seem to be wood frames that have expanded/contracted due to humidity changes - thus creating waves or bows in the the laminate. But I would think that if the laminate is glued down uniformly to something like pegboard - which is HDF (high denisty fibreboard) or hardboard - that it would be akin to a countertop. Obviously laminate doesn't bow or wave on countertops...

Although labelled as "overkill" - it seems to be a "solid" (no pun intended) solution.

MechMan - you noted "back when I used laminate" - how long ago was that and can you comment/summarize on what approach you used and how it held up.

Thanks all
 

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post some pics. this is a diy forum. :bigsmile:

also, do you have any issues with hotspotting and such? is your laminate a recent buy?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
OK, it's been nine months since the laminate screen was hung. As you recall it was glued to pegboard then hung.

Issue: There is a rather distinctive vertical "line" visible in the laminate where the pegboard butts together behind it. Initially when I first built it, I was a little concerned with that issue, but figured that the strength of the glue would hold it sufficiently, and there would be no flexing. I was incorrect. I am planning to cut plywood to size, then use liquid nails to fasten the pegboard to the plywood. Because the plywood will be in two pieces, I will probably use thin metal brackets along the seams to make it "as one".

I will actually cut the plywood a little shy on every side to allow for light to bypass the edges. There is already velvet tape on the laminate screen and on the wall behind left from my initial goo screen so there is plenty to absorb any errant light that might be present because of the screen popping out the width of the plywood.

No hotspotting and the laminate was purchased at HD, special order for like $80.00
 

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Issue: There is a rather distinctive vertical "line" visible in the laminate where the pegboard butts together behind it. Initially when I first built it, I was a little concerned with that issue, but figured that the strength of the glue would hold it sufficiently, and there would be no flexing.
Question: did you use anything like brackets or a "joiner" board BEHIND the pegboard - to hold the 2 pieces together? Wondering if that would do the trick vs another full sheet of plywood? I read somewhere that using 3M tape across the seam on the back and pulling/stretching it works also - like a butterfly bandage - but while that may hold the 2 pieces together where the edges but - still sounds like there could be movement frontwards or backwards - the issue that creates the line.

Thanks for the feedback - that has been a concern of mine also so appreciate you sharing your experience.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
I did not use a joiner board, and I did read about the tape thing but just couldn't see how tape could hold up for years of use. Should have had more faith in it I guess.

I have thought about using a thinner piece of wood to back up the pegboard, like the pegboard stuff without the holes, but I don't want to run into the same thing over again, so I will just over-engineer it like I should have done in the first place and use a piece of plywood, or at the very least OSB.
 

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...so I will just over-engineer it like I should have done in the first place and use a piece of plywood, or at the very least OSB.
I hear ya. And the pegboard solution was referenced as "overkill" as it was!. The lack of that support piece was nagging at me - so while I don't envy you having to redo yours - very good to hear this now.

Only thing I'd be cautious about is the plywood warping/twisting. If you have it mounted in multiple spots (top and bottom) then probably ok, but I did read a few posts where plywood backers warped/bowed - granted, I don't think there was a hardboard "middle" layer.

So far (subject to learning more) - I'm planning to use a strip (2x4?) across almost the entire top and bottom and attach 4 or 6 french cleat mounts to the 2x4's (one towards each corner and likely one in the middle - top and bottom to hold the entire screen rigid. This will also give me some "depth" behind the screen so it appears to float off the wall. need to keep reading though before I settle on that design.

Thanks for the good info and good luck with the support/enhancement - let me know how it turns out.
 
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