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Discussion Starter #1
Pictured below is the basis of a sub enclosure I am planning to put together shortly. It will be approximately 5.4cf (net) with a 10x3 slot port roughly 30" long (20-21Hz tuning) for a Shiva-X.

This enclosure will mount behind the wall that my plasma hangs (box will be in garage) and fire between the studs as shown (I did not show the layers of drywall). The drywall will have openings for the woofer & port to fire thru and be covered with grills. Please note that the "top" & "bottom" are not shown in the drawing.

The port will extend from the main box to fit flush with the drywall (and fit into the notch you see on the right side of the box).

Likewise, the Shiva-X will sit on a baffle that extends from the main box to fit flush with the drywall (and fit into the notch you see on the left side of the box). The walls will be effectively 1" thick & the baffle will be effectively 1.5" thick.

My question is about the process of laminating the 1/2" MDF (for sides, back, top, & bottom) and the 3/4" MDF (for the "baffle" facing you). I plan to just use Titebond.
== Is that a decent bonding solution?
== Will it dry effectively at the center of the sheets?
== How long should I give it to dry?




Please ignore the extra lines around the cutout for the port. Their shown only for an idea I have & don't want to confuse this discussion more with that idea.
 

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In the past, I had good luck by scuffing the MDF surfaces to be adhered with 80-100 grit sandpaper then applying Tightbond with a roller to get an even coverage. The scuffing will create dust that you have to remove from the surfaces to ensure good glue contact. I laminated the small pieces that I had by either using clamps or in an experiment jacked a car up and then setting it down on the laminations (Bubba is alive and well in my garage).

Anyway I think that the biggest issue for the large pieces that you are bonding will be getting a continuous clamping across the faces. Ideally I think a vacuum bag would be the best solution, but realistically any amount of weight that will eliminate any "bowing" in the pieces to be laminated will work. I let my stuff dry for a week in clamps, in Texas during summer, and didnt notice any tackiness when machining the parts.

DQ
 

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I'm not sure about an infinite baffle build with Shiva-X. I hope you've checked that out before going with the IB build.

2nd I'm not a big fan of 1/2" mdf for a sub box. I suggest 3/4" MDF.

For lamination contact cement and a router are your best bet. Though you can use the titebond iron on method as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Isiberian: I think you missed a few details in my post. Not IB, 5.4cf (net), ported. For "lamination" are you thinking of veneer? I'm talking about two layers of 1/2" or 3/4" MDF with some sort of bonding agent between them...making 1" & 1.5" walls.
 

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any wood glue will work just fine. Polyurethane needs moisture to cure and is notoriously messy because it expands as it dries. Spread the glue out evenly, and smack them together. If your clamping really wide pieces than sandwich them between 2 x4 's on edge. Even better if you can sand the 2x4's so that they are slightly convex on one edge..when you clamp them together then they will flatten out and exert even pressure across the surface. You don't need a super amount of force, just enough so the surfaces touch evenly. And yes, scuff the hell out of the boards first. A tack cloth ($1 at any hardware store) is the most effective way to get the dust off before gluing.

One last thing....if you haven't purchased the MDF already spend the extra $3-$5 and buy non-toxic or low VOC MDF. The MDF at home improvement stores off gasses formaldehyde, which is a linked to cancer, asthma and other fun stuff. Call around to a wood supply store, they should have it.

Have fun and WEAR A MASK WHEN CUTTING/SANDING MDF!! It gets EVERYWHERE.
 
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