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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I am having a very difficult time finding a dimmer that is compatible with dimmable LED lighting and can be controlled via IR remote, so I can control them with my Harmony remote. I would think this would be easy to find, but I have not been able to find anything that does this for under $100 for a single switch.

Essentially I want this (BUT compatible with LED lights which the below is not):
http://www.lutron.com/en-US/Product...immers-Switches/MaestroIRDimmer/Overview.aspx

Has such a thing just not been invented yet, short of spending more than $100 and getting a home automation system?

If there is no such thing, is there at least a switch that will be able to switch LED lights on/off (no dimming) via my Harmony remote (IR remote).

I am wondering if I just have to go to incandescent lights so I can use the Lutron switch.
 

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LED lights use so little power that making a dimmer that works using a LED load is almost impossible without some more complex circuitry using DMX control like they use in professional stage lighting.
What works really well with the dimmer you linked to above (I use them) is to put one 25watt incandescent bulb somewhere in the loop, this will put enough load on the circuit to dim the lights fully and eliminate the flickering you usually get.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
I might just stick the incandescent in the attic. When it burns out, I assume I will have to replace it, right? Or will it still do its job of making the LED lights dimmable on that Lutron switch even when burnt out?
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
LED lights use so little power that making a dimmer that works using a LED load is almost impossible without some more complex circuitry using DMX control like they use in professional stage lighting.
What works really well with the dimmer you linked to above (I use them) is to put one 25watt incandescent bulb somewhere in the loop, this will put enough load on the circuit to dim the lights fully and eliminate the flickering you usually get.
After posting the above, I thought of another question, so I will summarize them both below:

1. Does it have to be 25 watt, or can I go higher (for instance if I want a 75 watt incandescent in the attic above my home theater).
2. If the light burns out, do I have to replace it to keep the LED lights dimmable function working correctly on the Lutron switch?
 

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1. Does it have to be 25 watt, or can I go higher (for instance if I want a 75 watt incandescent in the attic above my home theater).
it can be any wattage but the point of going with LED is to save power so a refrigerator bulb (usually 15-25watts) would be ideal.
2. If the light burns out, do I have to replace it to keep the LED lights dimmable function working correctly on the Lutron switch?
No, if the bulb burns out you would have to replace it.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Why not go with Caseta or Hue and switch out the harmony for iRule or Roomie?
I just Googled iRule and Roomie, now I see they are Andriod or iPhone remote apps. I like the concept in theory, but in reality I want a physical remote to control everything instead of using my phone. Is there a physical remote (and not just a game controller, an actual remote with all the needed buttons, etc...) that I can synce up with either the iRule or Roomie? If yes, then maybe that would be an option I would consider.
 

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LED lights use so little power that making a dimmer that works using a LED load is almost impossible without some more complex circuitry using DMX control like they use in professional stage lighting.
What works really well with the dimmer you linked to above (I use them) is to put one 25watt incandescent bulb somewhere in the loop, this will put enough load on the circuit to dim the lights fully and eliminate the flickering you usually get.
That doesn't always work, but if it does it is a good solution.:T:T
 

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I might just stick the incandescent in the attic. When it burns out, I assume I will have to replace it, right? Or will it still do its job of making the LED lights dimmable on that Lutron switch even when burnt out?
I have my LED lights dimmed by normal Insteon switches (not for LEDs), and I set their lower dim level to just before they start to flicker. Some LEDs will allow me to dim down to about 30%, and others will allow me to dim down to about 15% (with the Leviton switch being the exception). Insteon switches require a hub though. In our MB we have a standard Leviton wall dimmer switch, and it will dim down to almost off.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
There are so many options, it's great. Keep the suggestions coming...

So between the Lutron switch and the Insteon switch which one wins on price and which one wins on performance?
 

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Using the Lutron dimmer you originally linked to that I use I can go anywhere between just a faint glow to fully on and anywhere in between the only thing is that the 0-50% range is much quicker than the rest to full on so in reality at 50% on the dimmer my lights are probably at 75% on.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
Using the Lutron dimmer you originally linked to that I use I can go anywhere between just a faint glow to fully on and anywhere in between the only thing is that the 0-50% range is much quicker than the rest to full on so in reality at 50% on the dimmer my lights are probably at 75% on.
That is pretty good performance to go to almost off. I wonder if it is possible with the Harmony (or any other remote) to program it to fade to black and come back on smoothly? Or is the remote not that smart?
 

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Ive programmed the remote into my Harmony 1100 and no issues at all.
 
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