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The only issue with walls inside of walls, lgl, is that this type of build can eat up a lot of floor space and quickly. Sure it does what it does, but is it what you require for the best isolation based on your budget.

And take that low ceiling height into consideration...it only gets lower from here

Adding mass to the upper floor area is a good thing and can reduce sound penetration from upstairs to downstairs, and vice-versa. That should get on your radar screen first no matter what you do.

Have you taken any sound measurements around the house, inside/outside to determine what it is you are up against as far as noise levels go?

Another blip on the radar screen just appeared


You have an idea of what you want I can tell, so plan out all the steps before you take them is my suggestion.

 

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What would come out of measurements Ted, is knowledge. Knowledge that you are up against a specific noise level. That in itself allows others that can help, like you, to know with better accuracy what the build will require.


Just for the record, 75% of statistics are made up on the spot

 

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I would spend 100 dollars to save 100 dollars, yes sir. HT rooms are indulgent to begin with, so waste is subjective.

Also, I will not attempt to measure what is in the head of another human being, too many unknowns. So you are on your own

 

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Thanks Lgl, it may not be a test but it helps those looking on who are not as insightful.

 

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The issue with any speaker that can generate enough pressure to rattle plates is that it had to rattle the structure to rattle the plates

Ted will be the first to say that before a build starts you should add additional mass to any and all areas that are part of the exterior leaf if possible. The interior leaf will not be effective enough to completely isolate the heavy rumblings of a sub woofer if this attention is not granted.

Is that not a fair assessment Mr. White? Windows, doors, that overhead floor and possibly the chimney should have a good look into before, if this were me, the build actually began.


Just trying to help you have the best you can Lgl.

 

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That's what I was meaning several posts ago. You're still going to hear the low bass, since it just isn't practical to build partitions whose resonance point is extremely low. Too much air cavity depth and mass is needed.

I am a bit confused on what it is you are saying then.

I saw a guy(Lgl) that is doing a remodel on an existing ht...there is a reason people do this And at least part of that reason is house rattling not in the basement...in the upstairs area. But we did not know this for sure until the ground shaking subs were mentioned, after the measurement comments.

Your preaching to the choir. It is the easy answer to mention doing a room in room construction, it can be the most effective weapon against low frequency energy. But all parts of the build must be entertained as being interactive with this wall system or it is just another wall that isolates but does not address the specific issue/problem that seems to be the current concern.


In a nutshell, that is all I am saying

 

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That is an area that may need some thought. I don't know if I would give up a whole couch to the sub even if the couch could do the job but it needs decoupling to reduce the structure borne vibration.

It may be as simple a thing as volume reduction.

 

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You cannot turn down the volume?


It's your hearing your talking about losing...not if, but when.

 

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So this is a 1/2" total thickness product? If so, I really recommend to increase the mass by adding a thick sheet of drywall behind that finished material.

If I may ask, what would be the difference between 2: 1/2" and one thick sheet? I mean, what is the difference in terms that I can understand as a builder of rooms.

Granted I wouldn't put the MDF on the inside of the room, but it is treatable It would be better situated as the first layer, but that's just from what I know.

 

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If damped.

This report:
http://www.cmhc-schl.gc.ca/publications/en/rh-pr/tech/02-108.html
that is the conclusion of this data:
http://irc.nrc-cnrc.gc.ca/pubs/ir/ir761/ir761.pdf
reads that, based on the research, 13mm fire rated is recommended....if available.

 

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Thanks for the verification. I think the National Research Council of Canada is a gold mine of information for audio related builds for people that choose to use it.