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Hi lgl.

I'm still not sure what the stringers are doing for you other than stiffening surfaces you'l like to have more flexible.

As far as which lumber to use, I would not consider less than 2x6. Your ceiling could sag or worse.
 

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Discussion Starter #102
Hi Ted. Stringers in the walls and roof ensuring that it does not bend when the timber dries,
and because it is stiffer, I've compensated by using thinner studs (2" 3"). The walls are not very stiff.
The walls have different mass and flexibility, the wall behind is not made with stringers and the timber is 2" 4". I hope this structure functions as bass traps with different resonances.
(forgive me if my English is poor:rofl2:)
 

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Discussion Starter #104
Of course I will share my build with the shack, and thanks for your help Ted, it has been a major contribution.
 

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Discussion Starter #105
The floiting joist is finished, stringers is not to make the joist stiffer but to prevent it to bends when they dries. I used 1.5" x 6" timber. All are on the straight line.
tak 001.jpg
tak 002.jpg

Has created a cutting board to cut the insulation, this simplifies the customization.
tak 003.jpg
 

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If you're going to drywall the ceiling you should put it up first before you do the walls. That way the walls drywall gives a little support to the ceiling drywall. After the ceiling then you do the upper wall with full sheets then the lower wall with sheets cut to fit with factory edges always joining another factory edge. That makes taping and mudding a lot easier.

The stringers in the walls are used to stop fire (if one were to occur) from spreading up the wall cavity. They are not necessary if the cavity is filled with mineral wool. 2x4 is standard for stud walls but you can use 2x3s on non supporting walls and even 2x2s on a basement wall like furring strips. Even with spacers in the walls they can still warp. A little bit of warp isn't going to hurt much. The drywall in place with screws will prevent some of that.

Having the spacers in there isn't going to hurt anything. It's just going to make it harder to stuff with insulation.

Just my 2 cents
 

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Discussion Starter #107
If you're going to drywall the ceiling you should put it up first before you do the walls. That way the walls drywall gives a little support to the ceiling drywall. After the ceiling then you do the upper wall with full sheets then the lower wall with sheets cut to fit with factory edges always joining another factory edge. That makes taping and mudding a lot easier.

The stringers in the walls are used to stop fire (if one were to occur) from spreading up the wall cavity. They are not necessary if the cavity is filled with mineral wool. 2x4 is standard for stud walls but you can use 2x3s on non supporting walls and even 2x2s on a basement wall like furring strips. Even with spacers in the walls they can still warp. A little bit of warp isn't going to hurt much. The drywall in place with screws will prevent some of that.

Having the spacers in there isn't going to hurt anything. It's just going to make it harder to stuff with insulation.

Just my 2 cents
Thanks, i will follow your recommendation, and there is much work to cut the insulation.
lglura
 

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Discussion Starter #108
tak.jpg
Got the package with Green Glue yesterday, hope it's worth the price, it was very expensive:spend:
 

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Thanks, i will follow your recommendation, and there is much work to cut the insulation.
lglura
Best cutter is a long serrated blade (ie: Ginsu knife) or a fine toothed saw.

Wear gloves a mask and a long sleeved shirt and maybe even goggles if putting cut pieces overhead. They say Rockwool is less itchy than fiberglass but I found it worse. I should have taped my sleeves over my gloves. I had to take a cool shower afterward to get rid of the itch.
 

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Discussion Starter #111
I use a big razor knife, it is clean edges when cut, but I need to replace the blade frequently.
 

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Discussion Starter #112
nye kinorom.jpg
Drywalls finished and sealed off, the doors are mounted on both walls.
I've found to my disappointment that this is not a soundproof room, therefore, is the name of the thread misleading. The room is very much better than before, but not soundproof, low frequencies can still sound between floors.
 

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Discussion Starter #113
I find that Green Glue beginning to work, low-frequency noise from the floor above is more reduced for each day
:T:T:T
 

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Anymore updates lgl?

And I was wondering if anyone can get the green glue? in other words can it be shipped world wide?

Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #118
Here is new updates, walls are painted in colors S8000 and the roof is in the S7000.
The floor is a vinyl coating. Now begins the exciting part of building the HT.
malt rom 004.jpg
 

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Just curious how the progress is coming along?

Its been awhile so I hope all is well.
 

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Discussion Starter #120
Hi chrapladm, thanks for asking, it's been a while since I last visited the forum, has spent much time on building new speakers, here is a picture, I will give a description when I'm happy with the sound.

høytalere4.jpg
 
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