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Man this is really murky water on this subject. The thought of a line array with inexpensive surplus drivers has really got my attention. I'm thinking 8 4" Peerless Mid-bass with 8 1" titanium domes (only 2" overall diameter) in close proximity to each other on convex open baffle with stereo subs of 2 10's each. I can purchase all the drivers for a stereo pair for under $500.00. All the negatives on the subject of line arrays from 'audiophiles' really confuses especially when i look at McIntosh's line of speakers. Any thoughts ??
 

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All the negatives on the subject of line arrays from 'audiophiles' really confuses especially when i look at McIntosh's line of speakers. Any thoughts ??
most audiophiles are just people who think that unless you have spent as much as they have, or your cables have the same logo on them then you are listening to rubbish.
 

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I think it's a great idea..







Not done yet with mine, but it seems like a fairly easy way to go and there is something about a huge line of drivers that's intrinsically sexy to me.

JCD
 

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Ignore the pundits. Arrays are only a problem when too high for the distance to the listeners; I find that a minimum 3:1 distance versus array height eliminates pathway differential and lobed response issues. I don't see any advantage to an open baffle, though.
 

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I LOVE LOVE LOVE linearrays, and I've built several the last few years. Here's the current version...

These are built with Sonic Craft 6-1/2" B/MR drivers, and they sound EXCELLENT if I say so myself*. These drivers are discontinued and soon will be unavailable, but probably the best thing about them, other than their basic very high sound quality, is that they're only $10 each in 24s. (I love 'em so much I just bought an extra carton of 24.) I used Parts Express's inexpensive Dayton mag.-planar tweeters, and while they sound good, the quality of the treble is NOT as high as that of the output of the B/MR drivers.

My systems are open-baffle, and they sound MUCH more-spacious than if they were sealed, but that's a personal preference. One thing I know--I'm never going back to a nonopen-baffle speaker system.

I think you need to do one of two things for tweeters--use one point-source** tweeter (and I'd use a ribbon tweeter by probably Aurum Cantus) or use a line of tweeters that are about as tall as your line of B/MR drivers. I think you'll hear lobing with 1"-dome tweeters; I know I and my friends did using 1" domes that were 2-1/2" center-to-center.

I'll soon be building finished versions with TWELVE B/MR drivers and (I hope) electrostatic tweeters by Roger Modjeski (Music Reference). These will be 2-ways, as are my current versions now since I've stolen those 12" woofers to use in my JB/JG-SuperSubs.


If Modjeski's tweeters aren't finished when I'm ready for them, probably I'll use some inexpensive single dome tweeter temporarily.

I'm actively filtering and EQing these with a dbx-brand DriveRackPA; I'm using (relatively) inexpensive Music Reference EM7 Single-Ended triode amps to drive them. http://www.ramlabs-musicreference.com/EM7.html With a sensitivity of c. 100dB, they require little power to fill the room.
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* Others, too, say so, and if you'll e-mail me at jeffreybehr(at)cox(dot)net, I'll forward comments from a couple friends.
** Understand that the MR/treble balance from such a hybrid system will be correct at only one distance.
 

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jeffreybehr,
Nice Array's. I too have been interested in the design ever since reading Dr.Griffin's paper. It is absolutely essential reading for anyone attempting such a design.

How does the open baffle design affect the sound of the system you posted above? I like the idea of having an open baffle, because it makes cabinet building EASY, rather easier. This is especially appealing since I do not possess many tools in my workshop (jigsaw, circular saw, multi tool with plunge router attachment).

Have you experimented with other tweeters, cone, or dome? Parts Express has a nice little Dayton ND20FB-4 Rear-Mount 3/4" Neodymium design that I've been eye balling lately. It mounts from the back, which would make it easy to mount. It's only $4. PE#: 275-035.
 

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I have no way to back this up, but I think Dr. Griffin's paper has lost favor lately. For example, I think the tapered power handling isn't in vogue as much any more.

I think the more modern approach is the work done by Roger Russell.

JCD
 

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I have no way to back this up, but I think Dr. Griffin's paper has lost favor lately. For example, I think the tapered power handling isn't in vogue as much any more.

I think the more modern approach is the work done by Roger Russell.

JCD
Griffin approaches LAs from the theoretical direction, Russell from the practical. Both are a bit dogmatic, but that's to be expected. Anyone who doesn't firmly believe in their position probably doesn't have a position worth believing in.
 

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Ok, now after soaking up Roger's information, theory, and practical design, I'm re-looking at building a Line Arrary.

Where can I find more info on Roger's design, ie. wiring of the drivers, and Eq specifics about where to boost to entend down to 20hz, and out past 18khz?

I'd probably start with building a low cost design first, using something like a Behringer DEQ-24/96 EQ, or something that would do the job. Any thoughts?
 

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Where can I find more info on Roger's design, ie. wiring of the drivers, and Eq specifics about where to boost to entend down to 20hz, and out past 18khz?
Any thoughts?
That's where Roger and I part company. Whether it's a line or point source dispersion and response issues still dictate that no less than a 2 way, and preferably a 3 way system is necessary to run the full audio bandwidth. I believe you can get what you're looking for via the link above, though.
 

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That's where Roger and I part company. Whether it's a line or point source dispersion and response issues still dictate that no less than a 2 way, and preferably a 3 way system is necessary to run the full audio bandwidth. I believe you can get what you're looking for via the link above, though.
I think going with a two or three way also makes sense. From my understanding, he's eq'ing the low end a LOT. The reason why it isn't distorted beyond all get out is because he has so many drivers. The other thing that should be noted is the drivers he's using -- I can't remember what they are off the top of my head, but they weren't the $8/driver type I used. :bigsmile:

In the end, my plan was to eq a little bit to extend my line array down to work with a powered sub as well as using a horn loaded tweeter that's SUPER efficient to handle the duties from maybe 8k and above.

Oh, and I wired my drivers so that they all receive the same amount of power, but with the combination of parrallell and series wiring, I was able to get a nominal 6ohm system.

JCD
 

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"jeffreybehr, nice arrays." TY. I have lots of hours and $ invested.

"I too have been interested in the design ever since reading Dr.Griffin's paper. It is absolutely essential reading for anyone attempting such a design." Wasn't essential for me; I've never read it. But...then...maybe some of youz are thinking 'ya, it looks like it'?!?!?!?!

"How does the open baffle design affect the sound of the system you posted above?" As I wrote above, OB designs are much more spacious sounding than closed designs, and spaciousness is a sonic requirement of mine. Also, OB designs lack bass due to Wrap-Around Cancellation. WAC is reduced by the use of wings separating the front and back, the longer the better*, and can be offset by electronic equalization, either passive or active. Of course one must have enough amplifier power and driver power handling to do much of that, and here multiple drivers help immensely.

"I like the idea of having an open baffle, because it makes cabinet building...easier. This is especially appealing since I do not possess many tools in my workshop (jigsaw, circular saw, multi tool with plunge router attachment)." You have more than I!

"Have you experimented with other tweeters, cone, or dome? Parts Express has a nice little Dayton ND20FB-4 Rear-Mount 3/4" Neodymium design that I've been eye balling lately. It mounts from the back, which would make it easy to mount. It's only $4. PE#: 275-035." I've tried 1" soft-dome tweeters from old Kindel PLS-As...

They sound plenty OK but not up to the quality of the JG65 drivers. I've also listened to Aurum Cantus G2 ribbon tweeters; they sound EXCELLENT but are too expensive for me in enough quantity for a linesource. I suspect those inexpensive Daytons would sound OK, but if you're going for inexpensive AND a linearray, I'd use a batch of these...

...VERY inexpensive tweeters from Apex. http://www.apexjr.com/speakerstuff.html At $1 each, one can afford to toss them if they don't sound good enough.



* Of course large wings have their own perhaps-big problem, namely panel resonances. Mine were QUITE audible, and I spent weeks adding material and bracing to sort-of eliminate their resonances. Here's a clue.

Had I known then what I know now, I'd have used 1" PLUS 3/4" MDF for them. The new systems will have 1-3/4"-thick wings, smaller than the current systems', and which will require more electronic equalization. I use an active filter, a dbx DriveRackPA, in my triamped system.

Do yourself a favor--call Sonic Craft...800/689-9800...and buy a carton of the JG65 drivers before they're all gone--and they will be SOON. You'll be happy you did. I again offer to send you the e-mail of my 2 friends' comments on the sounds of my prototype systems. E-mail me at jeffreybehr(at)cox(dot)net and I'll forward it.
 

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Of course large wings have their own perhaps-big problem, namely panel resonances. Mine were QUITE audible, and I spent weeks adding material and bracing to sort-of eliminate their resonances.
That's one of the reasons I don"t care much for OBs, they can turn into a never ending project. I put these TL arrays on my walls and never had a reason to touch them again.
 

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I love line arrays also and, I am planing on building 3 sets for my new HT. I don't quite know what to do with the center channel yet. I have studied Griffins paper as well as Russels info. I think between the both of them I have gathered enough info to be dangerous:coocoo: I will be using an active crossover and a 4-18" IB sub.

Best of luck, keep us posted. Rick.
 
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