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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hello:)

I currently have one Maelstrom 18" Gen II and one LMS ultra 18", each in a 3 cf sealed cabinet, with their own EP4000 amp.

I wanted to look into building 2 new cabinets that are LLT. I must forego a sonotube, as I can only do the following dimensions:

17" deep, 85" high and 33" wide. Thats around maximum 600 liters or around 20-22cf. It will go behind an AT screen. I would prefer the driver at the lower end of the cabinet and downfire is not possible because of depth limitation.

Since I can make the cabinet a bit wide, perhaps a port inside in the side that wents to the bottom or out to the front somehow?

I'm modelling in winisd and looks like around 500-550 liters with a tune of 12hz is ok? I'm having trouble balancing the numbers in terms of tune, port size, length and resonance. Thats an 8" wide port around 55" long.

I went sealed in my first design because I wasn't comfortable doing a ported design, but now I've read about LLT and it sounds promising!:)

Suggestions on a LLT design for these 2 drivers?

Regards

Claus Linde
 

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Try 14hz and 13.5 cubes, 22.5x3.5 port 48-55" long. I almost built this before going with the Gjallarhorn. I would give this double the watts that you are now though.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Try 14hz and 13.5 cubes, 22.5x3.5 port 48-55" long. I almost built this before going with the Gjallarhorn. I would give this double the watts that you are now though.
Is that the LMS driver in that alignment? I get 1st port resonance as 95hz, is that a problem? airspeed is 22 m/s. Otherwise looks fine, I can't overpower it with 2000w, excursion is 30mm.

I have 2 x EP4000 and 1 x Inuke 6000DSP and when a movie calls for low end material with heavy output, my lights dim - appearently I am limited out of the wall socket!
 

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Is that the LMS driver in that alignment? I get 1st port resonance as 95hz, is that a problem? airspeed is 22 m/s. Otherwise looks fine, I can't overpower it with 2000w, excursion is 30mm.

I have 2 x EP4000 and 1 x Inuke 6000DSP and when a movie calls for low end material with heavy output, my lights dim - appearently I am limited out of the wall socket!
Any possibility of running a dedicated line to each subwoofer amp?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Any possibility of running a dedicated line to each subwoofer amp?
I thought about it actually, to have a local electrician come by and work something out. Not sure what it will take or how expensive that would be.

It's a 220v 13A socket. I think there's only one line going to that room, so a lot of equipment share the same line. So in theory I can only draw 3000w from the socket, but I think in short term I can draw more - however, the lights dim so there is not enough power I suppose.
 

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I thought about it actually, to have a local electrician come by and work something out. Not sure what it will take or how expensive that would be.

It's a 220v 13A socket. I think there's only one line going to that room, so a lot of equipment share the same line. So in theory I can only draw 3000w from the socket, but I think in short term I can draw more - however, the lights dim so there is not enough power I suppose.
I don't know about your home construction but...

My house is on piers and I can pay a neighbor to run a line from the socket location to the breaker box. I can install the wall box and socket. However, I'd have an electrician connect to the breaker box even though I'm sure I could do it... but I no longer trust myself not to err these days. The point is the electrician need only do the most difficult part so that saves a lot of pricey labor costs. The electrician should be in and out in an hour our less because he won't have to do time-consuming labor-intensive grunt work. Why should anyone pay $60-100 per hour to run a line?;)
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I don't know about your home construction but...

My house is on piers and I can pay a neighbor to run a line from the socket location to the breaker box. I can install the wall box and socket. However, I'd have an electrician connect to the breaker box even though I'm sure I could do it... but I no longer trust myself not to err these days. The point is the electrician need only do the most difficult part so that saves a lot of pricey labor costs. The electrician should be in and out in an hour our less because he won't have to do time-consuming labor-intensive grunt work. Why should anyone pay $60-100 per hour to run a line?;)
Something to look info for sure, it wont cost me anything to get them to take a look at it and give me a price. I do not think it will be overly expensive.
 
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