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Hey all, this is a great forum I've been reading it for some time now and I think its time for me to jump into this and build one of my own. I thought I'd get your input on the initial design and see if you think this will work. A little background...
I currently have an M&K MX350THX and it's a sweet sweet sub. I love the quality of bass that this puts out but in my current living situation the room is too large for it and I have to put it in a corner to get decent output. This virtually ruins the quality of sound. The response is terribly uneven. The loud frequencies resonate and really have no definition. So my options are, buy several more M&K's or build my own. Obviously, more M&K's would be hugely expensive and from the looks of things I might be able to build something better.
To overcome the room size and acoustic problems I think I'll take a 'sledgehammer' :bigsmile: approach and build something ridiculously huge, place it optimally in the room (even if the location doesn't give the most output) then eq out any remaining problems. I think I can do this for what I can sell my M&K for plus a small budget of my own. What I don't want is a loss of any quality. If my new sub sounds worse (even if it's louder) I will likely part it out and sell it at a loss and keep my M&K. So my requirements are high sound quality, and effortless reference output in my room.
I propose to build four sub boxes containing 2 each of Dayton's Titanic 12" drivers in push pull configuration. This will provide maximum flexibility in placement. I'll power them with a huge external amp capable of driving the woofers to near xmax. So far the QSC PLX series or a used MX series looks like a good option. Then I'll add an EQ like the beringer or rane to even things out. I was thinking of re-enforcing the box by coating it inside and out with concrete. Anyone do anything like that?
What do you think? The room is approx 30ftX22ft and basically rectangular. One thing I don't completely understand is the effect of Q. The books say I should aim for a Q of .707, but lower Q's seem to provide a flatter deeper response and require less power. What exactly would I lose by going to say a Q of .5? Box size is really of little concern. Thanks for any input you can provide, I'll keep this thread updated as I go on. Thanks for having such a great forum!
I currently have an M&K MX350THX and it's a sweet sweet sub. I love the quality of bass that this puts out but in my current living situation the room is too large for it and I have to put it in a corner to get decent output. This virtually ruins the quality of sound. The response is terribly uneven. The loud frequencies resonate and really have no definition. So my options are, buy several more M&K's or build my own. Obviously, more M&K's would be hugely expensive and from the looks of things I might be able to build something better.
To overcome the room size and acoustic problems I think I'll take a 'sledgehammer' :bigsmile: approach and build something ridiculously huge, place it optimally in the room (even if the location doesn't give the most output) then eq out any remaining problems. I think I can do this for what I can sell my M&K for plus a small budget of my own. What I don't want is a loss of any quality. If my new sub sounds worse (even if it's louder) I will likely part it out and sell it at a loss and keep my M&K. So my requirements are high sound quality, and effortless reference output in my room.
I propose to build four sub boxes containing 2 each of Dayton's Titanic 12" drivers in push pull configuration. This will provide maximum flexibility in placement. I'll power them with a huge external amp capable of driving the woofers to near xmax. So far the QSC PLX series or a used MX series looks like a good option. Then I'll add an EQ like the beringer or rane to even things out. I was thinking of re-enforcing the box by coating it inside and out with concrete. Anyone do anything like that?
What do you think? The room is approx 30ftX22ft and basically rectangular. One thing I don't completely understand is the effect of Q. The books say I should aim for a Q of .707, but lower Q's seem to provide a flatter deeper response and require less power. What exactly would I lose by going to say a Q of .5? Box size is really of little concern. Thanks for any input you can provide, I'll keep this thread updated as I go on. Thanks for having such a great forum!