Mach 5 IXL 18.2.2 Box opinions

13815 Views 112 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Mike P., Jun 11, 2009

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · May 25, 2009 (Edited)

I am probably going to get the IXL 18.2.2 when they are back in stock...
But until then, I wanted to see what you guys thought about my planned box dimmensions.
It will be 7 cu.ft tuned to 17.99hz so the port lengths can be a quarter multilple like .75 or .25.

The box needs to be the same depth and width to fit in the corner of my room to clear the furniture.
Just to make sure, the 19 inch depth and width are external dimmensions and not internal, correct?

Here is the port lengths and volume:

You need to multiply the port volume 524.6459731494955 (yes, that is the actual number it has) by three due to the three 4 inch ports at 41.75 inches long to keep the tune the same.

And, here is the bracing:

You will need to multiply 54 cubic inches by 2 becuase I was thinking that 2 of those braces would be sufficient? Do you think that I will need more braces or just different dimmensions for them?

Would you guys recommend anything else for me to change? I am not sure how much bracing I would need for this box, so I am hoping someone could help me out there.
Would I need to secure the ports to the bracing? If so, should I just change the bracing number of cutouts to 2 and then just drill a hole big enough for the three 4 inch ports to fit through? Also, I would have the ports exiting through the top of the box...if I changed the cutouts to 2, I would have to change the heighth of the box to compensate for the extra volume taken up. The driver will be down firing. (I'm assuming that the driver will fit with a base plate?) The box will have 1 inch square legs with a <probably> one inch thick baseplate screwed into the legs.

I am open to any suggestions you guys have.

Thank you

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robbo266317

· #40 · May 28, 2009

Just click the Members DIY Subwoofer Database link in his signature and scroll down to IXL

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robbo266317

· #45 · May 30, 2009

Use the guideline from the sonosub build to find the depth of the legs.

Front firing is good, down firing is Ok.
Save up and do it :yes:
I put on Toccata & Fuge in D Minor today.............. :hsd:

And that's with single Shiva X!

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robbo266317

· #47 · May 31, 2009

I can only go on other posts I have seen and there was one a month os so back that he had built as downfiring but he said it sounds better front firing. There are a lot of factors. Mine is downfiring because it's large as it's tuned low.

You can download sonosub software and it has it all, For my shiva it only required a gap of about 3" I set it about 4" anyway.

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robbo266317

· #50 · Jun 1, 2009 (Edited)

The second tab is endcaps and plates.
Right at the bottom is the bottom plate distance.
If you click on the display warnings it says the minimum gap needs to be 4 1/2"
For the sag you need to enter the drivers resonant frequency from the specs and it's one-way x-max
So for 17 Hz & 22 mm it's sag is acceptable at 3.6 %

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robbo266317

· #52 · Jun 1, 2009

It would be better to seal it properly, you can always gain access to inside the box through the speaker hole.
Down firing does help protect the driver, I don't think you will need to see it, You'l FEEL it..... :hsd:

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robbo266317

· #54 · Jun 1, 2009

If you can find some wheels ~6" that would be perfect.
Make it easier to move around.

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robbo266317

· #63 · Jun 2, 2009

Actually the small disc is for the port end inside the box. and I put a half inch roundover around the outside edge later.
That is a 1" roundover and I used a circle of mdf bolted to the router so it would sit flat as I did the roundover with top mounted on the 6" pipe as the template.

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robbo266317

· #75 · Jun 3, 2009

Have a look through this thread. fairly basic bracing.
http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/exodus-audio/14208-shiva-x-sub-build.html

also check through the rest of the members dabase for more ideas.
And remember it doesn't have to be pretty on the inside, just sturdy.

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robbo266317

· #105 · Jun 8, 2009

Caveat:- In the Bass realm there are always neccessary compromises. Box/driver size. Location/Room size etc....

Also, What sounds good to you, or me, is subjective.

When I started building speakera a lot of people would not build bass reflex boxes due to their experience in the 80's where ill advised attempts with poorly understood Thiele Small parameters gave inadequate results!
Speaker/Box design has come a long way since then, including a vast array of software to help model the speaker/box interactions and, unless you do something totally inappropriate, a good speaker will be Ok in allmost all of the enclosures modelled.
"Musicality", I would suggest, is not going to be a concern for a Sub... Most sub output is going to be felt and the detail is going to be in the higher frequencies which is reproduced by your main speakers.
So if your mains don't sound OK then adding a sub isn't going to help.

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