[Mike P.]

I went from being suggested the Dayton 15" HF to the Mach 5 IXL 18.2.2. If I wouldn't have asked the questions, I would have ordered the Dayton.

The Dayton was suggested to you because your originally statement regarding your budget:

My max budget is $425, but I would like to keep it below $400, if possible.

You changed your mind and different subs were recommended. Moving on.......


Your box plans look fine.

 

[Mike P.]

Yes.

 

[Mike P.]

Flared ports under 26 m/s work fine.

Flanged vs. free ends is all about the acoustical length as opposed to the physical length of the port. Look it up in the help files.

 

[Mike P.]

Either the IXL-18 or Tempest-X would work for you. Now all you have to do is build the box.

 

[Mike P.]

The ports need to be one diameter away from any wall. Take a piece of paper, a pencil and a ruler and draw it out to scale. Yes, you can use elbows, take a look at my IXL-18 build thread.

 

[Mike P.]

http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=181

Click on the bottom image, all the dimensions of the sub are there.

 

[Mike P.]

Most places that sell the port will also sell you a center extension piece and connecting rings.

So when is the box building going to start?

 

[Mike P.]

You're still going to need bracing. Post a pic of what you have planned.

 

[Mike P.]

Move your sub up and put a brace above and below it. A couple of pieces from side to side would help also. Port length is measured through the center of the port, just so you know.

 

[Mike P.]

The red line is to show where to measure the port length, which is through the middle of the port.

 

[Mike P.]

What I don't understand is how I would measure the boards that would make up the top of the port.

Draw you box plan out to scale and you'll have all the measurements.

Would I just take away a inch from the cutouts that I would make for the top of the port? The inch that I am talking about taking away would be from the overall length of the actual port

I have no idea what you mean. The port is 18.50" wide by 2.00" high, and 44.50 inches long as measured through the center line.

 

[Mike P.]

AS I said before, draw your sub design on a piece of paper and draw it to scale. All the measurements are there. It is that easy. Do it.

 

[Mike P.]

The Re is 3.4 ohms in the WinISD file that you can download from this site.

 

[Mike P.]

Stick with what you have planned Dylan, The "What If" game can go on forever.

 

[Mike P.]

I agree with Mike go with the 18! Trust me one 18 in large room is a lot of bass. One 18 in a bedroom is CRAZY BASS!!!!!! Get one of those used 18's and build a box. :bigsmile:

Matt

There you go Dylan, you've heard that before, remember? :whistling: