Mach 5 IXL 18.2.2 Box opinions

13817 Views 112 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Mike P., Jun 11, 2009

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · May 25, 2009 (Edited)

I am probably going to get the IXL 18.2.2 when they are back in stock...
But until then, I wanted to see what you guys thought about my planned box dimmensions.
It will be 7 cu.ft tuned to 17.99hz so the port lengths can be a quarter multilple like .75 or .25.

The box needs to be the same depth and width to fit in the corner of my room to clear the furniture.
Just to make sure, the 19 inch depth and width are external dimmensions and not internal, correct?

Here is the port lengths and volume:

You need to multiply the port volume 524.6459731494955 (yes, that is the actual number it has) by three due to the three 4 inch ports at 41.75 inches long to keep the tune the same.

And, here is the bracing:

You will need to multiply 54 cubic inches by 2 becuase I was thinking that 2 of those braces would be sufficient? Do you think that I will need more braces or just different dimmensions for them?

Would you guys recommend anything else for me to change? I am not sure how much bracing I would need for this box, so I am hoping someone could help me out there.
Would I need to secure the ports to the bracing? If so, should I just change the bracing number of cutouts to 2 and then just drill a hole big enough for the three 4 inch ports to fit through? Also, I would have the ports exiting through the top of the box...if I changed the cutouts to 2, I would have to change the heighth of the box to compensate for the extra volume taken up. The driver will be down firing. (I'm assuming that the driver will fit with a base plate?) The box will have 1 inch square legs with a <probably> one inch thick baseplate screwed into the legs.

I am open to any suggestions you guys have.

Thank you

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mdrake

· #21 · May 27, 2009

Hate to throw another option in the already very over crowded ring but Kevin will be shipping the new Tempest-X and if I understand correctly it should be available in a couple of months. It should be awesome. :devil: You might have to start a new thread about the Tempest-x box. :R

Matt

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #22 · May 27, 2009

Acutally, those were my two driver choices

It mostly depends on which is cheaper, or if one performs much better than the othe for the extra money. I think I would rather go for a 15" in my room, so my dad doesn't think that it will be really crazy, but that 15 is just as good as the IXL 18 :bigsmile:

Thanks, and I will just go off of what Kevin recommends in the Application Notes for a box size and dimmensions :T May have a few questions on bracing though. I'm anxious to see the new driver model in WinISD...

dgilme

· #23 · May 27, 2009

sub_junkie said:
Acutally, those were my two driver choices
It mostly depends on which is cheaper, or if one performs much better than the othe for the extra money. I think I would rather go for a 15" in my room, so my dad doesn't think that it will be really crazy, but that 15 is just as good as the IXL 18 :bigsmile:

Thanks, and I will just go off of what Kevin recommends in the Application Notes for a box size and dimmensions :T May have a few questions on bracing though. I'm anxious to see the new driver model in WinISD...

Have you looked in the classifieds section? There are 4 lightly used Tempest-X's for sale right now I think. Depending on the whole price is a limiting factor thing.

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #24 · May 27, 2009

Ok, thanks for that.
I think I will wait until the Generation 2 Tempest-X's come out though. Unless they are too expensive, then I will get the one of the ones for sale here. Also, I need to get some surround speakers, so I will just get those now, and hopefully will have enough money saved to still get the Tempest-X or IXL 18.2.2

Thanks for the help

dgilme

· #25 · May 27, 2009

sub_junkie said:
Also, I need to get some surround speakers, so I will just get those now,

70 pages of advice over 3 forums and you get surrounds instead of a sub.. classic

onder: :scratchhead:

mdrake

· #26 · May 27, 2009

70 pages of advice over 3 forums and you get surrounds instead of a sub.. classic

:rofl:

If you are going to build the sub you could build the surrounds. Have you looked at the kits that GR-Research, Madisound and Parts-Express have available? Some of the kits even have the box.

Matt

dgilme

· #27 · May 27, 2009

mdrake said:
:rofl:

If you are going to build the sub you could build the surrounds. Have you looked at the kits that GR-Research, Madisound and Parts-Express have available? Some of the kits even have the box.

Matt

No... can you imagine how long narrowing down a crossover and 2 or 3 drivers would take if one sub took this much :bigsmile:

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #28 · May 27, 2009

No, lol I'm still getting the sub. Just waiting until the new ones come out to see how much they are. I can still buy the sub too :T
The surrounds are just $75 with shipping and all the parts I needed, so it's not bad at all. It's the "Vifa 2nd Recession Busters Kit" from Madiosound. Includes everything, so I don't have to worry about all of that :T

Thanks for the help everyone

Mike P.

· #29 · May 27, 2009

Either the IXL-18 or Tempest-X would work for you. Now all you have to do is build the box.

Text Technology Line Electronic device Screenshot

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sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #30 · May 27, 2009

You are correct! I will try to start building the box soon, and just make a bottom "plate" where the driver goes the correct cutouts for both the Tempest-X and the IXL 18.2.2.

I don't know, maybe I will save the money that I was planning on spending on the surrounds, and just spend that on the box. About how much do you think the planned box will cost? I have absolutely no idea, so I am hoping you guys will :T
Is there a program that gives you a idea of how the cutouts should be on the wood? Like it shows a diagram of each piece of wood you would need, and placed it so you can see how many sheets you would need? I'm sorry if that confused you guys

That's the only way I could explain it...

Thanks for the help everybody.

dgilme

· #31 · May 28, 2009

sub_junkie said:
You are correct! I will try to start building the box soon, and just make a bottom "plate" where the driver goes the correct cutouts for both the Tempest-X and the IXL 18.2.2.

I don't know, maybe I will save the money that I was planning on spending on the surrounds, and just spend that on the box. About how much do you think the planned box will cost? I have absolutely no idea, so I am hoping you guys will :T
Is there a program that gives you a idea of how the cutouts should be on the wood? Like it shows a diagram of each piece of wood you would need, and placed it so you can see how many sheets you would need? I'm sorry if that confused you guys That's the only way I could explain it...

Thanks for the help everybody.

2 Sheets of 3/4 mdf - 50
1 can of spray paint - 4
1 can of spray poly urethane - 9
Wiring posts/screws - 25
1 bottle of titemond III - 9

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #32 · May 28, 2009

Would this be what I would need to get? Should I keep it at 3/4th inch, or just go for 1 inch, and no bracing?

http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?action=productDetail&productId=37461-46086-LBR-37461&lpage=none

Thanks for the help

Edit: dgilme, thanks for that. Now I know what I need to get for glue

Thanks for the prices also, it's a big help. I will hopefully be able to head down to Lowes sometime next week once I get back from California.

mdrake

· #33 · May 28, 2009

1" inch MDF is REALLY hard to work with!!! It is really heavy. I would use the 3/4 and add the bracing, and double the front baffle. At least that is what I do. Although I made my last box out of Birch but it was a royal pain in the rear, as the sheets of birch are not square!!! The easiest way to I found to finish MDF boxes was rock paint. :bigsmile: :R Although it looks kinda

it is easy to hide mistakes.

Matt

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #34 · May 28, 2009 (Edited)

OK, 3/4th inch it is. :T
How far away from the bottom of the box or driver does the ports have to be?

Thanks

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #35 · May 28, 2009

OK, so I'm guessing that having the ports around 7 inches away from the bottom of the box will be okay? But, how far away from the driver do they have to be? Since the driver is around 9 3/4th inches tall, wouldn't the ports not fit? Would there be a way that I could 90 degree them near the top and have going out the back of the box? Or, would that create port noise or chuffing?? I really need help on this. I have no clue about it. Sorry for all of those questions again, I just now thought of the ports not fitting...

Thansk for the help everyone.

dgilme

· #36 · May 28, 2009

Seriously.. go with one of DIY's subs either the mael-x or tempest-x and use one of the premade plans in this forum, the avs forum or linked on the DIY cable site. No chance to screw up a box designed for you.

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #37 · May 28, 2009

I am. But, they don't give you how long to make the ports, just the tune. So, I need to know how I can fit the ports in the box that I had planned. I could go 18x18x55, but then I would need at least two sheets of 19x19x97 mdf. So, my question is, can I put a 90 degree tur in all of the ports?

Thanks

Mike P.

· #38 · May 28, 2009

The ports need to be one diameter away from any wall. Take a piece of paper, a pencil and a ruler and draw it out to scale. Yes, you can use elbows, take a look at my IXL-18 build thread.

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #39 · May 28, 2009 (Edited)

OK, thanks Mike. I couldn't find your build. I have seen it before, but can't find it now. Can you link it or tell me the name so I can search for it?

Thanks for the help

robbo266317

· #40 · May 28, 2009

Just click the Members DIY Subwoofer Database link in his signature and scroll down to IXL

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