[sub_junkie]

Oh, duh I didn't even think of that...sorry
That's where I found it the first time :T

Thanks

 

[sub_junkie]

Would I still be able to mount the driver with the depth being 20 inches, and the width being 19 inches? I think I would be able to, but I definitely need help on this one

Thankd for the help

 

[Mike P.]

http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=181

Click on the bottom image, all the dimensions of the sub are there.

 

[sub_junkie]

OK, so it looks like it will all fit. I will have to find a way to put some legs on it and a baseplate, or just make it front firing.
Will a baseplate have any affect on sound?

Thanks for the help everyone

 

[robbo266317]

Use the guideline from the sonosub build to find the depth of the legs.

Front firing is good, down firing is Ok.
Save up and do it :yes:
I put on Toccata & Fuge in D Minor today.............. :hsd:

And that's with single Shiva X!

 

[sub_junkie]

So, down-firing would take away form SPL or Sound Quality? If it will make any difference, I will just make it front firing.
What is the guildline from the sonosub build that you talked about?

Thanks for the help, and I'm sorry if I ask too many questions :T

 

[robbo266317]

I can only go on other posts I have seen and there was one a month os so back that he had built as downfiring but he said it sounds better front firing. There are a lot of factors. Mine is downfiring because it's large as it's tuned low.

You can download sonosub software and it has it all, For my shiva it only required a gap of about 3" I set it about 4" anyway.

 

[SteveCallas]

From what I have seen of FR measurements over several years, down firing tends to yield a slightly smoother overall FR with a little more low end. Front firing tends to yield a little more higher frequency bass.

 

[sub_junkie]

I have the Sonosub software already, but couldn't find where it says how long to make the legs. Also, I looked at the "Sag Calculator", and it said that the IXL 18 had too much sag at 14hz and lower. What does this mean? Should I just make it front firing so I don't have to take that into account?

Thanks for the help, and my apologies for yet another question...

 

[robbo266317]

The second tab is endcaps and plates.
Right at the bottom is the bottom plate distance.
If you click on the display warnings it says the minimum gap needs to be 4 1/2"
For the sag you need to enter the drivers resonant frequency from the specs and it's one-way x-max
So for 17 Hz & 22 mm it's sag is acceptable at 3.6 %

 

[sub_junkie]

OK, now I see that. Thanks for helping me there.
I can't decide if I want to make it front firing or not. It's cool to see the excursion while watching movies or listening to music :T
Front firing would be easier so I wounldn't have to worry about the legs, but it wouldn't be protected as much.

Is there any problem with just securing the sides and bottom of the box with just screws and some kind of sealent that would make it so I could still take apart the box, but still have it sealed up enough?

Thanks for the help everyone

 

[robbo266317]

It would be better to seal it properly, you can always gain access to inside the box through the speaker hole.
Down firing does help protect the driver, I don't think you will need to see it, You'l FEEL it..... :hsd:

 

[sub_junkie]

True. Judging by my calculations, I will be able to make the box 19" wide and deep and 49" tall, I can just fit all of the braces and everything with one piece of MDF ( http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?acti...ctId=37461-46086-LBR-37461&detail=&lpage=none ) which is only $30. If I make it down-firing, I will just make the bottom plate out of some wood that my dad has lying around. But, I would have to figure out how to make the legs VERY stable. I don't want them collapsing if the box is ever tilted sideways, or whatever. Would just gluing three to four pieces of half inch (maybe quarter inch) wood together be enough to support the box? Maybe I will just put it on some industrial wheels and just forget about the bottom plate thing :bigsmile:

Thanks for the help

 

[robbo266317]

If you can find some wheels ~6" that would be perfect.
Make it easier to move around.

 

[dgilme]

Get some scrap 4x4 from lowes or HD, cut them 6" tall and mount wheels on them as legs. It gives you the height and strength you need.

I'd suggest lockable wheels to keep the sub from vibrating all over the place.


Of course this is all contingent on you actually building something...

 

[sub_junkie]

OK thanks. The sub will be on carpet, so I don't think it will move around. Will I need a baseplate if it is on carpet?

Thanks

 

[dgilme]

OK thanks. The sub will be on carpet, so I don't think it will move around. Will I need a baseplate if it is on carpet?

Thanks

You know these forums have a search feature right?

 

[sub_junkie]

Yes, actually I use it all the time now.
I think I will just make it front firing, and for added protection, I will just make it so the driver will face either my walls, or my wall unit.
I don't know what to type in to search for this, but would it make any difference with the driver facing a wall rather than it just facing outward?

Thanks for the help

 

[salvasol]

OK thanks. The sub will be on carpet, so I don't think it will move around. Will I need a baseplate if it is on carpet?

Not an expert, but I think you do ....unless you want a jumping/bouncing sub :bigsmile:

I'm sure is the same with a Sonosub or a boxed downfiring sub; the base plate helps to stabilize it.

Here is a couple of pictures of what I did with my SonoSub, I purchased the legs at Lowes (around $3) each :yes:

 

[sub_junkie]

Actually, I have changed my decisions for ports. I think I will go for one 6 inch pipe 33.50 inches long. It will have two free ends, unless Home Depot or Lowes has something that will function like a flanged end. What kind of roundover bit should I use for one six inch pipe? Or could I use something else that wouldn't be so expensive?

Thanks for the help