Mach 5 IXL 18.2.2 Box opinions

13817 Views 112 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Mike P., Jun 11, 2009

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · May 25, 2009 (Edited)

I am probably going to get the IXL 18.2.2 when they are back in stock...
But until then, I wanted to see what you guys thought about my planned box dimmensions.
It will be 7 cu.ft tuned to 17.99hz so the port lengths can be a quarter multilple like .75 or .25.

The box needs to be the same depth and width to fit in the corner of my room to clear the furniture.
Just to make sure, the 19 inch depth and width are external dimmensions and not internal, correct?

Here is the port lengths and volume:

You need to multiply the port volume 524.6459731494955 (yes, that is the actual number it has) by three due to the three 4 inch ports at 41.75 inches long to keep the tune the same.

And, here is the bracing:

You will need to multiply 54 cubic inches by 2 becuase I was thinking that 2 of those braces would be sufficient? Do you think that I will need more braces or just different dimmensions for them?

Would you guys recommend anything else for me to change? I am not sure how much bracing I would need for this box, so I am hoping someone could help me out there.
Would I need to secure the ports to the bracing? If so, should I just change the bracing number of cutouts to 2 and then just drill a hole big enough for the three 4 inch ports to fit through? Also, I would have the ports exiting through the top of the box...if I changed the cutouts to 2, I would have to change the heighth of the box to compensate for the extra volume taken up. The driver will be down firing. (I'm assuming that the driver will fit with a base plate?) The box will have 1 inch square legs with a <probably> one inch thick baseplate screwed into the legs.

I am open to any suggestions you guys have.

Thank you

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sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #41 · May 28, 2009 (Edited)

Oh, duh I didn't even think of that...sorry
That's where I found it the first time :T

Thanks

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #42 · May 28, 2009

Would I still be able to mount the driver with the depth being 20 inches, and the width being 19 inches? I think I would be able to, but I definitely need help on this one

Thankd for the help

Mike P.

· #43 · May 28, 2009

http://www.mach5audio.com/zen/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=65&products_id=181

Click on the bottom image, all the dimensions of the sub are there.

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #44 · May 30, 2009

OK, so it looks like it will all fit. I will have to find a way to put some legs on it and a baseplate, or just make it front firing.
Will a baseplate have any affect on sound?

Thanks for the help everyone

robbo266317

· #45 · May 30, 2009

Use the guideline from the sonosub build to find the depth of the legs.

Front firing is good, down firing is Ok.
Save up and do it :yes:
I put on Toccata & Fuge in D Minor today.............. :hsd:

And that's with single Shiva X!

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #46 · May 31, 2009

So, down-firing would take away form SPL or Sound Quality? If it will make any difference, I will just make it front firing.
What is the guildline from the sonosub build that you talked about?

Thanks for the help, and I'm sorry if I ask too many questions :T

robbo266317

· #47 · May 31, 2009

I can only go on other posts I have seen and there was one a month os so back that he had built as downfiring but he said it sounds better front firing. There are a lot of factors. Mine is downfiring because it's large as it's tuned low.

You can download sonosub software and it has it all, For my shiva it only required a gap of about 3" I set it about 4" anyway.

SteveCallas

· #48 · May 31, 2009

From what I have seen of FR measurements over several years, down firing tends to yield a slightly smoother overall FR with a little more low end. Front firing tends to yield a little more higher frequency bass.

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #49 · Jun 1, 2009

I have the Sonosub software already, but couldn't find where it says how long to make the legs. Also, I looked at the "Sag Calculator", and it said that the IXL 18 had too much sag at 14hz and lower. What does this mean? Should I just make it front firing so I don't have to take that into account?

Thanks for the help, and my apologies for yet another question...

robbo266317

· #50 · Jun 1, 2009 (Edited)

The second tab is endcaps and plates.
Right at the bottom is the bottom plate distance.
If you click on the display warnings it says the minimum gap needs to be 4 1/2"
For the sag you need to enter the drivers resonant frequency from the specs and it's one-way x-max
So for 17 Hz & 22 mm it's sag is acceptable at 3.6 %

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #51 · Jun 1, 2009 (Edited)

OK, now I see that. Thanks for helping me there.
I can't decide if I want to make it front firing or not. It's cool to see the excursion while watching movies or listening to music :T
Front firing would be easier so I wounldn't have to worry about the legs, but it wouldn't be protected as much.

Is there any problem with just securing the sides and bottom of the box with just screws and some kind of sealent that would make it so I could still take apart the box, but still have it sealed up enough?

Thanks for the help everyone

robbo266317

· #52 · Jun 1, 2009

It would be better to seal it properly, you can always gain access to inside the box through the speaker hole.
Down firing does help protect the driver, I don't think you will need to see it, You'l FEEL it..... :hsd:

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #53 · Jun 1, 2009

True. Judging by my calculations, I will be able to make the box 19" wide and deep and 49" tall, I can just fit all of the braces and everything with one piece of MDF ( http://www.lowes.com/lowes/lkn?acti...ctId=37461-46086-LBR-37461&detail=&lpage=none ) which is only $30. If I make it down-firing, I will just make the bottom plate out of some wood that my dad has lying around. But, I would have to figure out how to make the legs VERY stable. I don't want them collapsing if the box is ever tilted sideways, or whatever. Would just gluing three to four pieces of half inch (maybe quarter inch) wood together be enough to support the box? Maybe I will just put it on some industrial wheels and just forget about the bottom plate thing :bigsmile:

Thanks for the help

robbo266317

· #54 · Jun 1, 2009

If you can find some wheels ~6" that would be perfect.
Make it easier to move around.

dgilme

· #55 · Jun 1, 2009

Get some scrap 4x4 from lowes or HD, cut them 6" tall and mount wheels on them as legs. It gives you the height and strength you need.

I'd suggest lockable wheels to keep the sub from vibrating all over the place.

Of course this is all contingent on you actually building something...

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #56 · Jun 1, 2009

OK thanks. The sub will be on carpet, so I don't think it will move around. Will I need a baseplate if it is on carpet?

Thanks

dgilme

· #57 · Jun 1, 2009

sub_junkie said:
OK thanks. The sub will be on carpet, so I don't think it will move around. Will I need a baseplate if it is on carpet?

Thanks

You know these forums have a search feature right?

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #58 · Jun 2, 2009

Yes, actually I use it all the time now.
I think I will just make it front firing, and for added protection, I will just make it so the driver will face either my walls, or my wall unit.
I don't know what to type in to search for this, but would it make any difference with the driver facing a wall rather than it just facing outward?

Thanks for the help

salvasol

· #59 · Jun 2, 2009

sub_junkie said:
OK thanks. The sub will be on carpet, so I don't think it will move around. Will I need a baseplate if it is on carpet?

Not an expert, but I think you do ....unless you want a jumping/bouncing sub :bigsmile:

I'm sure is the same with a Sonosub or a boxed downfiring sub; the base plate helps to stabilize it.

Here is a couple of pictures of what I did with my SonoSub, I purchased the legs at Lowes (around $3) each :yes:

Tire Automotive tire Auto part Metal

Laminate flooring Floor Flooring Wood flooring Hardwood

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sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #60 · Jun 2, 2009

Actually, I have changed my decisions for ports. I think I will go for one 6 inch pipe 33.50 inches long. It will have two free ends, unless Home Depot or Lowes has something that will function like a flanged end. What kind of roundover bit should I use for one six inch pipe? Or could I use something else that wouldn't be so expensive?

Thanks for the help

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