Mach 5 IXL 18.2.2 Box opinions

13826 Views 112 Replies 12 Participants Last post by Mike P., Jun 11, 2009

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · May 25, 2009 (Edited)

I am probably going to get the IXL 18.2.2 when they are back in stock...
But until then, I wanted to see what you guys thought about my planned box dimmensions.
It will be 7 cu.ft tuned to 17.99hz so the port lengths can be a quarter multilple like .75 or .25.

The box needs to be the same depth and width to fit in the corner of my room to clear the furniture.
Just to make sure, the 19 inch depth and width are external dimmensions and not internal, correct?

Here is the port lengths and volume:

You need to multiply the port volume 524.6459731494955 (yes, that is the actual number it has) by three due to the three 4 inch ports at 41.75 inches long to keep the tune the same.

And, here is the bracing:

You will need to multiply 54 cubic inches by 2 becuase I was thinking that 2 of those braces would be sufficient? Do you think that I will need more braces or just different dimmensions for them?

Would you guys recommend anything else for me to change? I am not sure how much bracing I would need for this box, so I am hoping someone could help me out there.
Would I need to secure the ports to the bracing? If so, should I just change the bracing number of cutouts to 2 and then just drill a hole big enough for the three 4 inch ports to fit through? Also, I would have the ports exiting through the top of the box...if I changed the cutouts to 2, I would have to change the heighth of the box to compensate for the extra volume taken up. The driver will be down firing. (I'm assuming that the driver will fit with a base plate?) The box will have 1 inch square legs with a <probably> one inch thick baseplate screwed into the legs.

I am open to any suggestions you guys have.

Thank you

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Mike P.

· #81 · Jun 3, 2009

The red line is to show where to measure the port length, which is through the middle of the port.

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #82 · Jun 3, 2009

Shouldn't the port length be pretty much the same though, no matter where you measure it as long as it starts and ends at the same place? How would I cut the pieces of wood if I just need ot measure it down the middle?

Thanks for helping me. And sorry for not understanding :bigsmile:

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #83 · Jun 4, 2009

Hmm, now that I look at the last post I made, it makes little sense.
What I don't understande is how I would measure the boards that would make up the top of the port.
Would I just take away a inch from the cutouts that I would make for the top of the port? The inch that I am talking about taking away would be from the overall length of the actual port...going with the slot port is going to save me around $40-$50, which is very valuable in my eyes :T

Thanks for the help, and sorry for the double post.

Mike P.

· #84 · Jun 4, 2009

What I don't understand is how I would measure the boards that would make up the top of the port.

Draw you box plan out to scale and you'll have all the measurements.

Would I just take away a inch from the cutouts that I would make for the top of the port? The inch that I am talking about taking away would be from the overall length of the actual port

I have no idea what you mean. The port is 18.50" wide by 2.00" high, and 44.50 inches long as measured through the center line.

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #85 · Jun 4, 2009

What I meant by measuring it through the center of the port is becuase it is a inch from the boards that would be the top of the port.
So, if I were to measure the top boards they should be a inch shorter than the planned port plans to keep the port the correct length while measuring it through the center of the port right?

Sorry for the questions. I didn't know I needed to measure it throught the center of the port. Glad I know that now :T

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #86 · Jun 5, 2009

Do I need to worry about going over a drivers Xmax limits below 10hz while modeling in WinISD?

Thanks for the help

dgilme

· #87 · Jun 5, 2009

sub_junkie said:
Do I need to worry about going over a drivers Xmax limits below 10hz while modeling in WinISD?

Thanks for the help

Yes, content that low is rare but does exist. If you don't account for it you could bottom your sub out when watching movies with content that low.

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #88 · Jun 6, 2009

OK, I thought so.
Do you guys understand what I am saying about the port?
Won't the top of the port have to be one inch shorter than the planned port length, becuase the actual port is measured from the center of it?

Thanks for keeping with me on this. I just want to make sure I am going to build the box correctly...

Mike P.

· #89 · Jun 6, 2009

AS I said before, draw your sub design on a piece of paper and draw it to scale. All the measurements are there. It is that easy. Do it.

dgilme

· #90 · Jun 6, 2009

In theory yes, 1 inch shorter than the longest run of a 2" thick port should work with right angles. But with a 45 at the corner that may change. Its been too long of a day to think hard about anything in this thread. Either do what mike suggested or measure the top and bottom and divide that by 2.

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #91 · Jun 6, 2009

Not to be off topic here, but I found this funny. If you guys think my last thread was long, check out this one. Look at how many pages it has, and the post count. :T

http://www.caraudiotalk.com/audio-forum/showthread.php?t=3786&page=150

Also, I'm just going to make the top boards of the port 44.5 inches long. I modeled it in WinISD, and there wasn't much of a difference in frequency and performance, so I'm not going to sweat it.

Thanks for the help everyone. :T

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #92 · Jun 7, 2009

OK, another WinISD question. When you model two drivers, and put 150w in the "system input power", does it mean that each driver is getting 150w, or just 75w each?

Thanks for the help

collo

· #93 · Jun 7, 2009

75w each

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #94 · Jun 7, 2009

Ok, so if I would have to wire the IXL 18.2.2 VC's in Series into a 4 ohm load for my Yamaha amp; it would be running off of 75w right? The Yamaha amp is 150w btw.
Here is the sub:

http://www.yamaha.com/yec/products/productdetail.html?CNTID=200486&CTID=5003300

Thanks for clearing that up

collo

· #95 · Jun 7, 2009

That would be 75w to each coil of a single DVC driver such as the IXL-18.2.2 - To model in WinISD, just use the combined impedence of 4 ohms and model with 150w.

You do realise that the driver can handle 700w - 900w....
If you go down this road, I would imagine that this will not be your last sub....

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #96 · Jun 7, 2009

I would just use the Yamaha amp until I can get the Behringer EP2500 and the Reckhorn B-1. How will I change the combined impedence to 4 ohm unless it's already there?

Thanks

dgilme

· #97 · Jun 7, 2009

sub_junkie said:
I would just use the Yamaha amp until I can get the Behringer EP2500 and the Reckhorn B-1. How will I change the combined impedence to 4 ohm unless it's already there?

Thanks

http://www.bcae1.com/spkrmlti.htm

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #98 · Jun 7, 2009

Oh, I'm sorry, I meant in WinISD. I have saved that, and have memorized how to wire in series and parallel :T

Thanks everyone

Mike P.

· #99 · Jun 7, 2009

The Re is 3.4 ohms in the WinISD file that you can download from this site.

sub_junkie

Discussion Starter · #100 · Jun 7, 2009

Alright, then it was already that then. Thanks Mike.
I know this is off topic, but I want to ask it.
What would make a 18" sub driver less "musical" than a 12" or 10"? Or, what would make the others be more musical over the 18" driver?

Thanks for the help everyone

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