[jmuir]

Quick question. I am looking at router over bits on MLCS's website and was wondering what radius I should purchase to round over/flare the ends of the ports. Any suguestions?

http://www.mlcswoodworking.com/shopsite_sc/store/html/smarthtml/pages/bt_round_over.html

John

 

[Mike P.]

Get the biggest you can afford. The #8658 is on sale for $46, well worth it in my opinion if you have a 1/2 inch router.

 

[jmuir]

I thought that was going to be the answer. :bigsmile: The 1 1/2" radius round over bit has been ordered.

Now I just need to pick up some items for Parts Express. Before placing the order I wanted to run the items by the board. I want to place just one order. From reading other posts, the order consists of the following so far:

Receiver to Amp:
RCA Cable - http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=240-186
RCA Jack to 1/4 Adapter - http://www.parts-express.com//pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=090-285&AID=1482282&PID=2777698

Amp to Driver:
10g Speaker Wire
Binding posts - Do you have any recommendations for binding posts? I was thinking of these: http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=091-1247

Driver Mounting:
1/4" x 20 Hurricane Bolts - http://www.parts-express.com//pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=081-1084&AID=1482282&PID=2777698
1/4" x 20 Hex Cap Screws

Let me know if I am missing anything or should get something different from the items listed above.

Thanks for your help.
John

 

[Mike P.]

Looks good!

 

[jmuir]

Progress pics. The final enclosure is changed to 358L at 15Hz tuning. The images in post #1 has been updated to reflect these changes.

I had Lowes cut the MDF sheets in half to make it easier to transport. Bilco stairs directly into the basement makes it easy to get the materials down into the work shop.

Everything cut to size.

 

[jmuir]

Here is the dry fit. Everything fit like a glove. Held together with just the two clamps. Next step is to cut out the braces and drive whole and then start the assembly. It is raining today so cutting the bracing will have to wait until next weekend. I prefer to make to remaining of the MDF cuts outside. The dust is just nasty.

http://lh4.ggpht.com/_9-3sQsQLXc0/SaDAYJJrJlI/AAAAAAAAARk/ZgkU2Adj7YY/s800/060.JPG/IMG]

For the MDF dust this is a must.
[IMG]http://lh6.ggpht.com/_9-3sQsQLXc0/SaDAZNL9uWI/AAAAAAAAAR8/6rEE60lBvEY/s800/063.JPG

More to come.

 

[jmuir]

Last update for the day. The 1 1/2" radius round over bit arrived yesterday from MLCS. A quarter is included in the pic to get a perspective of the bits size. Excellent service from MLCS, bit arrived in just two days using there free shipping.

 

[jmuir]

Quick update and help needed.

Update: All bracing and the driver whole has been cut, the driver mounting wholes drilled and hurricane nuts installed using gorilla glue. Just need to cut the port to its final length and do the final assembly.

Now for the help. How do I wire the amp to the driver? I have no idea and need some help as I do not want to mess this up. I would guess that my

Thanks
John

 

[Matt34]

Quick update and help needed.

Update: All bracing and the driver whole has been cut, the driver mounting wholes drilled and hurricane nuts installed using gorilla glue. Just need to cut the port to its final length and do the final assembly.

Now for the help. How do I wire the amp to the driver? I have no idea and need some help as I do not want to mess this up. I would guess that my

Thanks
John

Not sure exactly what your asking but regualr speaker wire to the back of the amp is fine. Just remove the black cap that is covering the terminals.

 

[jmuir]

Should have been more specific. I am inquiring whether it should be wired bridged vs non-bridged, 2 Ohms vs 4 Ohms etc. I guess I need to start by understanding what it means when the impedance is 2 + 2 Ohms as specified on Mach 5's website. I need to read up on speaker wiring but thought I would ask for advise here.

 

[jmuir]

OK after a little reading it appears some have wired theirs bridged into 4 ohms. Would this be correct for my setup or would I be better off just using one channel of the amp in parallel mode. If bridged, is this the correct wiring diagram for the IXL 18.2.2 driver?

 

[Mike P.]

Yes, that's it.

 

[myn]

Glad you went with the larger port diameter.

A single 6" definitely wouldn't cut it.

I can audibly hear port turbulance in mine which has 3 4" ports when playing anything below 20hz at an elevated SPL level. Although most don't listen to test tones. More breathing room is better .

Nice work

 

[SteveCallas]

So what happened? Is it done?

Nobody else mentioned it, so I will - that 1 1/2" roundover bit is SICK!!! :scared:

 

[collo]

that 1 1/2" roundover bit is SICK!!!

I'll second that! .... :T

 

[jmuir]

So what happened? Is it done?

Not yet, but I should be able to get it done, except for the painting, this week. I have not been able to piece together the time to devote to the build.

Here are a couple update pics.

In the second pic you can see that I had to move the location of one of the braces in order to make room for the flared end of the port. Did not take into account the added diameter for the material needed to make the flare. Good thing for dry fits.

Since these pics where taken, the flare of the port end that will be inside the box has been completed and the inside of the port painted black. Figured it would be easier to paint the inside of the port before it is glued into the box. Next is to glue in the open cell foam using some 3M 45 spray on adhesive, install the binding posts, glue on the last couple of sides, around over all edges, and flare the other end of the port.

 

[jmuir]

Nobody else mentioned it, so I will - that 1 1/2" roundover bit is SICK!!! :scared:

It is definitely a hair raising experience to use. raying:

 

[jmuir]

Progress report. Almost completed with the construction of the enclosure. I was able to work on it today, at least until a few friends showed up to have a few cold ones, for a couple hours. Here are some pics of the progress.

Final pics of the inside of the enclosure before the last side is attached.

Binding posts installed

I had to drill the wholes in the soldering tabs a little bigger to except the 10 gauge speaker wire. I also have a lot to learn about soldering. These did not turn out pretty but will work.:whew:

I just need to finish the flare on the port, attach the final side and round over all edges. Then it will be time to wire in the driver and connect everything for a test run. I will paint the enclosure after a few weeks of listening. Want to make sure it sounds good first. In the below pics you can see the build up for the port. I switched to Baltic Birch plywood simply because I got tried of the MDF dust.

 

[myn]

Looking good.

Make sure you silicone/liquid nails the sonotube port to the internal bracing so it doesn't flutter around.

 

[jmuir]

Looking good.

Make sure you silicone/liquid nails the sonotube port to the internal bracing so it doesn't flutter around.

Thanks myn!

The cutouts in the bracing is a every tight fit around the sonotude. No side play. I did use gorilla glue to adhere the port to the bracing.

Sorry to hear about your port noise. I have to say that I really enjoyed reading your build thread. It is one of reasons I decided on the IXL and ep2500.