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Discussion Starter #1
Heads up Maelstrom Gen II buyers, do not cut the driver hole according to anyone's recommendations prior to having it in hand-it will be too large. I cut to the specs as instructed with a router (I did not have the driver in hand) and the hole is too large. It is not a small difference as the bolt holes are on the inner cutout edge all around. In fact, I may not be able to drill them with my drill press without them breaking through the edge. That's what I got for not waiting:hissyfit::rant::explode:
 

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Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

The GenII is exactly the same as the GenI aesthetically. It aligned in my screw holes that I used with a Gen I model perfectly. What size holes did you cutout with the router? It sounds like you cut them too big, because the driver isn't any different. The inner baffle needs to be 16 3/4" and the outer baffle needs to be 18 1/2" in diameter.
 

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Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

That inner baffle is definately too big. Are you able to just cut a new inner baffle or is everything put together already?
 

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Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

Well, while everything and I mean everything in the tube fit perfectly, my driver holes are 17 1/16th and 18 9/16ths. I was given 17" and 18 1/2" by Kevin H.
I just measured my test baffle hole @ 17" and the three I have here all mount up. As I've always recommended though, the best policy is to wait until you have the physical part in hand before cutting anything.

Kevin Haskins
Exodus Audio
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

Oh, it's together alright. the outer baffle is 3/4" birch ply while the inner baffle is doubled 1 1/8" plywood that totals 2 1/4" . All layers are completely glued while the outer is piano black finished. All of my supporting leg holes to the baseplate have been precisely drilled as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

Could I cut the edge on the inner baffle with my jig saw for the holes. There is no way I can drill the hole as the hole would be about 1/8" off the edge all-around. I have 'spiked' nuts. (forgot the name)
 

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Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

Hrm, I'm not sure really. If you think you are going to go through the side of the baffle, I would put a layer of speaker gasket tape around the inside edge of the inner baffle, that way if the screws do go through, it should be sealed up somewhat at least and you won't get an air leak.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

I'm more concerned whether the speaker will be adequately held. It will be down firing rather than side mounted, but I don't know. If I can't do it with the existing baffle, it could be months before I can get it done since while awaiting the driver all this time I have invested all my funds (and now time) into renovating the kitchen. Any help appreciated!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

I just measured my test baffle hole @ 17" and the three I have here all mount up. As I've always recommended though, the best policy is to wait until you have the physical part in hand before cutting anything.

Kevin Haskins
Exodus Audio
I used two tape measures and got the same measure. I don't see how these measures are recommended. Even my outer cutout is much larger than necessary, even 3/8" larger than needed for the driver to fit with a small gap around it.

Kevin, if yours fit, can I swap drivers with you then? I centered each mounting hole with the 1/4" bolt and pushed it straight down after marking the bolt tip with a sharpie pen. I'll take a pic and show you what it looks like after work, but without angling the holes, the driver won't be supported. I just don't see how so little mounting material could be left at the recommended cutout. These large drivers don't come with a template, so having the accurate cutout diameter is imperative, hence the reason I didn't just peruse the forum but rather contacted you for those dimensions.

I only have two 'repair' options then: 1. redo the entire endpiece, a very time consuming job or 2. to drill the holes at an outward angle to get more material for the bolts, in which case I'm concerned if the driver frame were adversely affected the warranty would be null and void. Would this be alright, or no?
 

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Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

I am not so much worried about it fitting I just wish it would get here!! :bigsmile:
You could make and aluminum ring with inserts that the woofer screws to and bolt the
ring to the current baffle.... just a thought.

Matt
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

1/4" allen head socket bolts, 1 1/2" long. I have t-nuts to match.

As you can see, there is hardly any space to drill a straight hole. Looking at it, 16 3/4" would be an accurate inner cutout, perhaps even 16 5/8", while the outer would be 18 1/2", perhaps even 18 3/8".

Due to the thickness of the plate that I can drill into (2 1/4"), I'm going to drill at an angle and hope for the best. Otherwise, I'll have to redo it anyways.
 

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Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

I have a solution that has worked for me in the past. First, change the bolts to 10/24.
P1010036.JPG

Drill the holes just big enough so the bolts are snug.
P1010035.JPG

On the back side drill out the holes just big enough for the shank of the T-nut to fit.
Only drill as deep as the length of the shank.
One of the 'pins" will hang over the edge.
P1010041.JPG
P1010040.JPG

Test fit the sub, if any of the "T-nut overhang" is in the way, grind it off with a dremmel.
Apply hot glue around the perimeter of the T-nut.
This has worked for me on more then one occasion with no problems since installation.
1.JPG
2.JPG
 

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Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

Sounds pretty good Mike. I just use wood screws and mine are in there fine, I believe Kevin uses a #8 screw, but I haven't had any problems using a #10 in mine (couldn't find a #8 black headed wood screw)
 

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Discussion Starter #17
Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

Thank you Mike for the well-illustrated problem fix:T I will try this. I have a decent drill press, so I should be able to carry this out.

Do you think I should still angle the holes, maybe a little?
 

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Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

I wouldn't. As long as 3 of the 4 pins are biting into the wood you should be fine. Also test the T-nuts and bolts before you install them. They've been known to be cross threaded once in a while, it's not fun finding that out after they've been installed. After you do install the T-nuts, run the bolts through the back side, or use compressed air, that will clean out bolt hole of sawdust and anything else that can jam up a T-nut.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Re: Maelstrom-18" Gen II Landed

Anyone know where I can find a 10x24 bolt that is 2" long, or even 1.75"? I got it together, but the bolts are just shy of the t-nuts now that the threaded insert is shorter (than the 1/4" bolt and t-nut planned). I'd really like to not cut away any wood to be able to tighten it up:praying:
 
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