Home Theater Forum and Systems banner

1 - 20 of 30 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I'll be brutally honest, I am a newbie looking to get the most performance for the least work as possible, not out of laziness but out of general technical inneptitude.

So far I undertand that I want an LLT Sonotube with the Maelstrom. Would like the Tube as thin in diameter as possible and hieght is not a giant issue. I do plan on having the woodwork done by someone else as well but have a few general questions I'll just list.

1. Why does it seem like the right port size would be 4"? I have always heard of people using 6" with 18" woofers but the sonotube program seems to make 4" as the only possibility and 6" needs to be 2xlonger than the tube itself?

2. Is the EP2500 a suitable amp bridged? Can it handle more safely?

3. Can sonotubes be finished with "rock" or "granite" try spray paint i.e. will it destroy the paper? Is cloth or felt the only option to finish the tube?

4. Is there a general consensus on a tuning frequency that compliments the Maelstrom well? I don't think I have the best ability to judge this and want to see if there is a set range that you can tube the port to while still having good performance in the 80-100hz range.

As you can see I did not lie about being a newbie. My goal like I said is to learn enough to build an LLT sonotube with the least work and room for error as possible. I currently have an SVS pb13 Ultra that bottoms out on be at reference levels and need something that can keep up so I can back the SVS off and run it even or cool while letting the beast of an LLT run hot.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
1,941 Posts
1. Why does it seem like the right port size would be 4"? I have always heard of people using 6" with 18" woofers but the sonotube program seems to make 4" as the only possibility and 6" needs to be 2xlonger than the tube itself?
If you're talking about a 18" driver, so the right port size is at least 8" diameter. You must have something wrong in your calculations!
2. Is the EP2500 a suitable amp bridged? Can it handle more safely?
As far as you stay within 4 or 8 ohm loads....it is a loud YES, it is designed for such a duty.
3. Can sonotubes be finished with "rock" or "granite" try spray paint i.e. will it destroy the paper? Is cloth or felt the only option to finish the tube?
I believe it may finished with paint as well. Someone will correct me if I am wrong...
4. Is there a general consensus on a tuning frequency that compliments the Maelstrom well? I don't think I have the best ability to judge this and want to see if there is a set range that you can tube the port to while still having good performance in the 80-100hz range.
Tuning low (that's what you normally want) will not have any effect on the 80-100 Hz region (it will just act as a sealed sub. But say tuning to 13-14 Hz will give you extension at the expense of some output in a higher region (say 20-30 Hz), but it is generally a good trade...
You need to play with WinISD or Unibox, you'll have a visual representation of what I am talking about :)
I currently have an SVS pb13 Ultra that bottoms out on be at reference levels and need something that can keep up so I can back the SVS off and run it even or cool while letting the beast of an LLT run hot.
You'll need one or two 18" subs for that IMO. Good luck!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Discussion Starter #4 (Edited)
I just want to post a quick thank you!

I'll see what i can figure out for numbers but you guys already gave me a ton of help especially knowing I can paint it because I need to finish it with something (gf would flip) and I am not that handy. I figure using an LLT I can get help with the measurements from the guys on here then find a place to cut the MDF and then just plug the parts together and EQ it.

I'll see if I can run some numbers. I am sure they will be wrong but it will be a start.

Final question before posting more info:

Can I use a 22" sonotube with an 18" malstrom? What is the smallest I can safely use? The height can be 7 feet for all I care but the diameter is important for space.
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,397 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Wow winISD is a mile over my head right now...

I tried reading the instructions thread but I dont even know what all the terms mean yet. I wish I could copy that thread and how he did it but 24" is just abit too wide for wher eI want to put it and those extra 2 inches would be nice to save.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Wow and now it wont even let me exit the program. I try to close the program and it gives me some error codes and stays open.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Wow!

Thats just awsome... 119-120db!! It almost brought a tear of joy to my eye haha.

And yes, vista and it would give me some odd error and not let the program close till I used ctrl alt del

Will it effect those numbers at all if you remove the top cap, I am guessing it won't.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
Ok just researched about the ep2500 and it seems like the right power for a maelstrom but now I am wondering if 22" would be wide enough to get feet on for the base plate.

When you cut a center hole in the MDF for the top do you cut it to exactly 8" or a little smaller to make sure it is not too big to fit the port.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Hey Mike, sorry if I asked the question wrong but I think you answered it. Basically cut the hole just slightly bigger than the port so it fits then let the flare make up the difference. Also a good idea on the base mdf being bigger but if i go that route it might just be worth going for the 24" tube to be safe. The problem is I want to put it where a door opens (just a closet) and want to give it clearance.

I think I am finally understanding just a bit of whats going on, thank you. I'll read that thread with the 24" dual build and see how to put that one together incase the 24" makes mroe sense to give me more room to fit the feet on. if I get an understanding of it I might build a 22 and a 24 for differenct spaces and sell my PB13 Ultra
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Discussion Starter #16
Sounds great. I am going to talk to someone and see if they can do the woodwork. If so my PB13 Ultra might be on the way out the door (after only 2 months haha) and might be replaced by 2 of these beasts (gf will probably pack her stuff and leave too...oh well)
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
449 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Sorry for being a pain but should I flair that port or is PVC ok? Do you simply buy a third party flair and connect it to pvc?
 

·
Premium Member
Joined
·
19,397 Posts
Start with one EP2500 and one Reckhorn and take it from there. It may be all you need depending on your requirements. No sense spending money unless it's necessary.

There are no third party flairs that fit on 8 inch PVC or sonotube, that I'm aware of.

The cheapest solution is 8 inch sonotube, it'll be a lot cheaper then PVC. Here's a link on how to flair the ends with a router and round over bit.

http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/flares-10mm.htm
 
1 - 20 of 30 Posts
Top