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Maelstrom-X Cylinder LLT - 1st Timer

2048 Views 6 Replies 4 Participants Last post by  ironglen
Oh boy... The closest thing to a subwoofer I've ever even owned is either the lame 8" thing that came with the klipsch pro media or the 10" not-sub woofers on my parent's old sony floorstanding speakers.

I wanted a home theater and the first thing I looked at was lame HTIBs... and effectively probably quadrupled the original budget into ~40% of my entire summer "before school starts" savings. Of course, I went and set meself a budget around 400 dollars for a decent sub to go with 7 decent speakers around 600, and a cheap ~200 dollar reciever. keep it somewhere around 1200 dollars. But truth be told, I've had my Audio-Technica ATH-M50 headphones long enough that I know what good sound sounds like... and reading reviews can really ruin a person's future.

So on that note......
I already went and dropped like 550 on an AV reciever (Marantz SR6003)
I've "reduced" my 7 speaker budget to only 3 front channel speakers with the intent of putting the old sony towers at the rear for now (them usher S520/S525 are gunna cost me like 900... sigh)... for now.

And thus, we get to the sub. I started by looking at the SVS PB10-NSD! Yeah... until I came to a realization that it might be good, but in a room the size of my living room (er.. my parent's basement living room 17w x 16l x 8h and open at the back) I just wouldn't be satisfied. So I went to the next level up. Didn't sound bad at all... until stupid forum posts on the internet got my convinced that two of those would be better than one :ponder: ... and I would never truly be satisfied with them >_<

The more and more I read, the more and more I realized one thing... "I don't care what... I want to be amazed"... which somehow brought me to the Epik Phoenix... which doesn't exist anymore :foottap: but looking into Epik Subs I discovered their current flagship or what-have-you... the empire, and at that price i thought that maybe I've made my decision. Of course I didn't, because then I discover that the Submersive is better than two Empires >__<... and I totally could never afford it until i graduate college. That ultimately somehow brought me here, and, although I've been fickle until now, I think i've made my decision. I think I'm gunna build a sonosub with

1x Exodus Maelstrom-X
1x EPX3000

My intent is that next year, hopefully this driver's still obtainable and I can match it with another one of the same sort, but maybe build it in a box for fun. Will probably be total overkill, sure, but c'est la vie.. i think.

For now though, here's what i've gathered from reading older posts:

-If I build an LLT design, I'll be happy, and my mom likely won't... :heehee:
-Just using Sonotube seems to be more simple than building a box
-Cylinder Subs generally fire downwards, which takes a bit more energy than firing backwards. (or can you stand one horizontally and mod a couch over one? That's what I keep imagining)
-dampening is... important or something? *I'm going to read up more on this tommorow

The preliminary numbers i'm looking at based on the sonosub program are this... mind telling me if they're going to give me any SQ or under-wattage issues?

Effective Volume - 677litres
27" internal diameter - this should fit through the door, although I haven't yet measured it.
80" from endcap to endcap (6'8)
13.2 Hz Tuning Frequency
9" Port diameter
35" Port Length


The things in that program I haven't yet thought about are

Ports - What type to use and how many?
Endcaps?

As far as supplies... I HAVE:
A Jigsaw
A Miter Saw
A Drill
A Circular Saw
My Ambition
Caulk
Wood Glue

And I will need to BUY
Maelstrom-X 18" (online.. probably)
Behringer EPX3000 (from a local store)
Enough MDF
~28inch diameter Sonotube... will have to see what sizes are actually available
PVC or Sonotube for the port(s?)... what do you suggest?
Clamps? What sort of clamp size(s) am I looking at?
Screws? What sort of screws would work best? Clear description please!
Flares - what is reccomended
something for the dampening, i haven't looked it up well enough yet

What else should I be looking into? And how should I go about suspending the "cabinet" in the air?

The other thing I'm really not sure about needing is a router. My dad's telling me our other tools should suffice. And Finally, I'd like to ask if the Audessy MultEQ in my AV reciever will manage bass or not.
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Oh boy... The closest thing to a subwoofer I've ever even owned is either the lame 8" thing that came with the klipsch pro media or the 10" not-sub woofers on my parent's old sony floorstanding speakers.

I wanted a home theater and the first thing I looked at was lame HTIBs... and effectively probably quadrupled the original budget into ~40% of my entire summer "before school starts" savings. Of course, I went and set meself a budget around 400 dollars for a decent sub to go with 7 decent speakers around 600, and a cheap ~200 dollar reciever. keep it somewhere around 1200 dollars. But truth be told, I've had my Audio-Technica ATH-M50 headphones long enough that I know what good sound sounds like... and reading reviews can really ruin a person's future.

So on that note......
I already went and dropped like 550 on an AV reciever (Marantz SR6003)
I've "reduced" my 7 speaker budget to only 3 front channel speakers with the intent of putting the old sony towers at the rear for now (them usher S520/S525 are gunna cost me like 900... sigh)... for now.

And thus, we get to the sub. I started by looking at the SVS PB10-NSD! Yeah... until I came to a realization that it might be good, but in a room the size of my living room (er.. my parent's basement living room 17w x 16l x 8h and open at the back) I just wouldn't be satisfied. So I went to the next level up. Didn't sound bad at all... until stupid forum posts on the internet got my convinced that two of those would be better than one :ponder: ... and I would never truly be satisfied with them >_<

The more and more I read, the more and more I realized one thing... "I don't care what... I want to be amazed"... which somehow brought me to the Epik Phoenix... which doesn't exist anymore :foottap: but looking into Epik Subs I discovered their current flagship or what-have-you... the empire, and at that price i thought that maybe I've made my decision. Of course I didn't, because then I discover that the Submersive is better than two Empires >__<... and I totally could never afford it until i graduate college. That ultimately somehow brought me here, and, although I've been fickle until now, I think i've made my decision. I think I'm gunna build a sonosub with

1x Exodus Maelstrom-X
1x EPX3000

My intent is that next year, hopefully this driver's still obtainable and I can match it with another one of the same sort, but maybe build it in a box for fun. Will probably be total overkill, sure, but c'est la vie.. i think.

For now though, here's what i've gathered from reading older posts:

-If I build an LLT design, I'll be happy, and my mom likely won't... :heehee:
-Just using Sonotube seems to be more simple than building a box
-Cylinder Subs generally fire downwards, which takes a bit more energy than firing backwards. (or can you stand one horizontally and mod a couch over one? That's what I keep imagining)
-dampening is... important or something? *I'm going to read up more on this tommorow

The preliminary numbers i'm looking at based on the sonosub program are this... mind telling me if they're going to give me any SQ or under-wattage issues?

Effective Volume - 677litres
27" internal diameter - this should fit through the door, although I haven't yet measured it.
80" from endcap to endcap (6'8)
13.2 Hz Tuning Frequency
9" Port diameter
35" Port Length


The things in that program I haven't yet thought about are

Ports - What type to use and how many?
Endcaps?

As far as supplies... I HAVE:
A Jigsaw
A Miter Saw
A Drill
A Circular Saw
My Ambition
Caulk
Wood Glue

And I will need to BUY
Maelstrom-X 18" (online.. probably)
Behringer EPX3000 (from a local store)
Enough MDF
~28inch diameter Sonotube... will have to see what sizes are actually available
PVC or Sonotube for the port(s?)... what do you suggest?
Clamps? What sort of clamp size(s) am I looking at?
Screws? What sort of screws would work best? Clear description please!
Flares - what is reccomended
something for the dampening, i haven't looked it up well enough yet

What else should I be looking into? And how should I go about suspending the "cabinet" in the air?

The other thing I'm really not sure about needing is a router. My dad's telling me our other tools should suffice. And Finally, I'd like to ask if the Audessy MultEQ in my AV reciever will manage bass or not.
Building a box isn't really any harder than a tube. Assuming you can cut straight. For that rockler has great self clamping straight edges.

I recommend a router and a 7 1/4" circular saw for diy audio. You can't flush trim route with a jig saw. You can with a router.

http://www.parts-express.com/pe/showdetl.cfm?Partnumber=300-700 would be a nice speaker setup if you don't mind building speaker boxes and a little soldering work. The question is do you really want to do it.

If money is tight you could build a pair of Dayton 15" Reference subs and run them on a ep4000.
Thanks for the advice, although i honeslty won't be following it :p although Re: Router I might borrow one from someone for the project.

Anyways about my build project.. the driver has arrived and I'm just about ready to go. Wow. I never realized just how HUGE that thing really would be. It's so heavy too! wow! On a side note I think i'm going to go with a typical fan modded EP4000 as the amp, luckily there's a nearby shop that deals them.

The final specs I've settled on ended up being a bit more conservative but eh, c'est la vie:

24" sonotube diameter
76" endcap to endcap + 8" height off the ground (if the roof is 8 feet high, that's enough clearance right?)
for a 489l effective volume

8" x 50" sonotube port - this is where I've got a big question - just how important are port flares? I really don't want to build one.. it seems really difficult. One thing I noticed was that the difference between a 10" port and an 8" port is like night and day in terms of tuning frequency, whereas, at least according to the program, the difference between dual 2" flares and no flares is only around 7Hz of resonance frequency(135 and 141)... which doesn't really seem to matter as I'm already above 120hz resonance frequency... will I be doing this right?.

The tuning frequency of 11.8 seems... too low oddly enough. It's kind of got me thinking something's not right
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12 hz is too low in my opinion, you're giving up SPL in the 14 - 20 hz range compared to a 14 hz tuning. Use sonotube for the port. When they ship sonotube they make different sizes so they fit one inside the other to save on shipping. Find one that is 8.5" diameter and yes, you should flare the ends to eliminate the chance of port noise. A 8.5" tube 39" long will tune to 14 hz.

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Find one that is 8.5" diameter and yes, you should flare the ends to eliminate the chance of port noise.
Okay, that's interesting. Now I have to go to the shop and measure diameters lol. Am I measuring internal sonotube diameter or external?

EDIT: well, i hit up rona and the internal diameter was 8 and 3/8s iirc.
The internal diameter is what you're looking for.
Same thing with the main sonotube- it varies a bit, but in the main tube a small variance makes a larger difference in overall volume. If you're careful you can save yourself money by cutting your circles close together (trace on the wood first).

Be sure to check out Mike P's Subwoofer Database link above- lots of good build pics/designs. Have Fun!
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