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Discussion Starter #21
soho54 said:
The lack of extra bracing wouldn't allow that panel to move. That indicates the panels are not joined properly.

I see you used some small nails (brads?) but what adhesive did you use to bond the panels together? If it isn't holding there, you could have problems in the panels you do not see as well.

I also didn't realize you were going to place the p-glass across a baffle wall. You will need to add a few braces from wall to wall in the throat area where the p-glass is to hold the baffle in position there. I would then loose the weather striping across the baffle, and try plumbers putty. If the sub blows it out it will be easier to see. That gap seems to be ~1/4". If so, I would glue a spacer onto the baffle wall section there, to shrink the gap as well.
My uncle and I are going to brace the sub baffle quite a bit more tomorrow, and will seal it up completely with some heavy duty silicon. Hopefully that will solve the problem. It really only vibrates / moves around 40hz or so, if you play content below that, it doesn't really move at all. But I'm not playing anything more until the silicone is completely dry, and until it's braced very well.

soho54 said:
Anything between 10-15Hz will do.
Alright, I had it set around 15hz anyways.
 

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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

Wow Dylan,

Very impressive beast you have there:T

Unless I missed something is this the first Mal-X folded horn?
 

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Discussion Starter #23
sub_crazy said:
Wow Dylan,

Very impressive beast you have there:T

Unless I missed something is this the first Mal-X folded horn?
Thank you. I couldn't have done it without everyones help here ! They did all the hard work of making the horn and folding it, I did the simple task of building it :T

And if I'm not mistaken, I think this actually is the first "folded" horn for the Mal-X that I have seen.

I can't wait to let this thing rip. I've only taken it up to about half power and it was surprising me with all kinds of new sounds. Haha.
The sub 30hz bass is absolutely incredible. I had no idea I was missing out on so much with my old box. (I see some videos in the near future of The Bass Will Destroy You... :p )

How hard am I allowed to push the horn before damage is done to the driver? Would ~3/4th's power (from the EP2500) at like 20hz be too much ?
 

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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

Dylan,

Great news mate and can't wait to see the vids. It will be interesting to hear how it sounds and what low response you will have. Have you run some sinewaves through it with a spl meter to see what the levels are reading.

cheers

Graham
 

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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

And if I'm not mistaken, I think this actually is the first "folded" horn for the Mal-X that I have seen.
You are now a subwoofer pioneer, congrats to you and all that helped design it. What's next on this forum, a LMS Ultra folded horn?:T
 

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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

How hard am I allowed to push the horn before damage is done to the driver? Would ~3/4th's power (from the EP2500) at like 20hz be too much ?
If you have all leaks fixed the sub can handle everything the EP2500 can dish out bridged, with a 13-15Hz HP.

Of course you should be in the mid-130s dB wise by then in room. For what it's worth walls start moving, and things should start walking around the room on their own before you get there as well. ;)
 

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Discussion Starter #28
Oklahoma Wolf said:
Fasten your seatbelt - I thought my tapped horn was brutal the first time it started pushing the 120dB mark, and yours should be more capable than that one :hsd: :D
Can I hook my Antimode's mic up to my computer and see some spl levels through REW?

soho54 said:
If you have all leaks fixed the sub can handle everything the EP2500 can dish out bridged, with a 13-15Hz HP.

Of course you should be in the mid-130s dB wise by then in room. For what it's worth walls start moving, and things should start walking around the room on their own before you get there as well. ;)
The air leaks should be completely fixed once the sub baffle is braced a little more, and sealed up with silicon.

I haven't heard 130+db yet...can't wait :D
 

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Discussion Starter #29
sub_crazy said:
You are now a subwoofer pioneer, congrats to you and all that helped design it. What's next on this forum, a LMS Ultra folded horn?:T
Thanks again :T. I wonder what a horn could do for a cheaper TC Sounds driver ? Maybe I'll get working on one for my dads garage sometime... :D
 

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Discussion Starter #30
Well I managed to get the horn outside to do some extra bracing around the sub baffle. I used a piece of 1/8" thick piece of aluminum to run up the baffle, and secured it to the side of the horn, and obviously to the sub baffle. For a little added support, I grabbed a few pieces of 1/2" thick wood, and cut them to fit into the part of the horn where the sub's cone is. We glued and nailed the piece right up against the sub baffle, and did the same in the mouth of the horn. That should keep the baffle from moving front to back. Hopefully that will fix the problem. I'll try to get the horn back in my room to test it again. Hopefully, I'll get the corners rounded over, and the box painted by next Tuesday. It depends on how busy I am with school though.

I'll get some pictures of the bracing up sometime tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #32
mdrake said:
You will be in for a treat when you can put some power to it!!!!

Matt
Man...I can't wait until I can really listen to it. I only hit about half power before that baffle started to rattle, but all I know is the lows sound incredible, and I want to see what they sound like when the volume is actually up pretty loud :bigsmile:
 

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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

If you have all leaks fixed the sub can handle everything the EP2500 can dish out bridged, with a 13-15Hz HP.
Right. That was one of the goals for the initial simulation. Take the sub as deep into the sub bass as possible while still maintaining enough excursion headroom to handle the biggest peaks from the EP amp, all in a somewhat reasonable sized cab (for a horn at least. :whistling:).

Like Soho54 says above it should take the whole amp bridged for short durations above 15hz IF the leaks are taken care of and the cab design matches the simulation which it should be close. The fact that you can see the driver excursion is a good advantage. Just take it easy at first until you are sure everything is ok to let it rip.

You are now a subwoofer pioneer, congrats to you and all that helped design it. What's next on this forum, a LMS Ultra folded horn?:T
I will be doing one of those this year. I am deep into the cabinet design right now...:T
 

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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

wow, great stuff.

Can't wait to see your REW plots.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
Here's the bracing that we installed (don't worry, it will get painted)



There's an inch overall of wood on the cones' side of the baffle, with both pieces wedged up tightly against the baffle. Glued and nailed there in several places.



Looks like I should have used 1/2" or thicker for the plexiglass department...



Well I got the box back in the house to do some listening.
Even after adding all that bracing, the baffle is still managing to rattle around on the plexiglass side quite a bit. So I still had to keep the volumes down a lot :crying:

I'm going to add some more aluminum from the back of the mouth of the horn, to the current piece of aluminum thats there. Hopefully that will help some more. Then I'll add some more bracing on the plexiglass side of it all. If that doesn't stop it, I'll either deal with the rattle, or cut a nice piece of mdf to fit in place of the plexi, and glue and nail the you know what out of it.
 

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Discussion Starter #37
robbo266317 said:
hi Dylan,

Do you know what exactly is rattling, is it the plexiglass or one of the panels?
It's the sub baffle (as far as I know). I can see the magnet of the sub moving quite a bit if I turn it up.

I had an idea...would it be a bad idea to run another 3/4" piece of wood up where the current sub baffle is, and just glue and nail it to the current baffle ? Would loosing 3/4" off of the throat mess up the sound / performance of the horn ??
 

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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

The problem is the window. At the point in the sub where the most pressure and weight are battling it out, you have a section of the panel floating. To make matters even worse it is also at the thinnest panel section in the horn as well. The movement here is what pulled the backside around.

The new brace really needs to be placed between the sub mounting wall where it is thinnest, to the opposite wall at the throat on this side. It will block the view of the front of the driver, but it will kill a good bit of the movement. Adding an extra board thickness to the "baffle" on the mouth side won't do as much.

Sorry, you are having such a time. Wish we had caught the window placement you wanted, before you had cut it out.
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Re: Mal-X horn folded?

The problem is the window. At the point in the sub where the most pressure and weight are battling it out, you have a section of the panel floating. To make matters even worse it is also at the thinnest panel section in the horn as well. The movement here is what pulled the backside around.

The new brace really needs to be placed between the sub mounting wall where it is thinnest, to the opposite wall at the throat on this side. It will block the view of the front of the driver, but it will kill a good bit of the movement. Adding an extra board thickness to the "baffle" on the mouth side won't do as much.

Sorry, you are having such a time. Wish we had caught the window placement you wanted, before you had cut it out.
Only problem with running a brace from the cone side of the baffle to the next panel is the fact that i won't be able to secure it to the next panel with nails. Only glue, but that should hold it pretty well. I can nail and glue the brace to the sub baffle, just not nail it to the next panel. If the rattling/moving of that panel continues, I may just get rid of the plexiglass completely. But then I would need to make another access panel.....ugh I don't know. Haha.

And its ok. I should have ran across to you guys where I wanted to place the plexiglass before i actually put it in the plans.
 

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Re: Mal-X horn folded?

Only problem with running a brace from the cone side of the baffle to the next panel is the fact that i won't be able to secure it to the next panel with nails.
It won't be a problem with something like PL Premium. Cut the piece tight, and put it into the throat area. Spin it into position setting the non-baffle wall first. Then pull the baffle wall side towards you, and tap it in with a hammer. Use a clamp with the head reversed to apply pressure from the opposite side in the mouth fold, and you are done. Without nails the wood will crack next to the seem before the PL will let go.

The p-glass flex will be the only problem then.

The brace doesn't have to be very large either, so you don't have to cover everything up behind the p-glass there.
 
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