[sub_junkie]

It won't be a problem with something like PL Premium. Cut the piece tight, and put it into the throat area. Spin it into position setting the non-baffle wall first. Then pull the baffle wall side towards you, and tap it in with a hammer. Use a clamp with the head reversed to apply pressure from the opposite side in the mouth fold, and you are done. Without nails the wood will crack next to the seem before the PL will let go.

The p-glass flex will be the only problem then.

The brace doesn't have to be very large either, so you don't have to cover everything up behind the p-glass there.

Very well put explanation...thank you very much. About how large should the new brace be ? Like 5" tall, 1/2"-3/4" thick, and however wide to to fit very tight ? I would put two in the throat...one above the driver, and one below it. Maybe even one in the middle of it also for good measure. Should I also put some bracing from the back of the mouth to the back of the sub baffle ?

 

[Ricci]

Re: Mal-X horn folded?

For the brace that Soho is talking about don't use mdf. If you can, go to a hardware store and get a 1.5" or so diameter dowel rod. even an old broom handle cut down could work. Cut it slightly oversized so that get some good pressure on the baffle when you put it in.

 

[sub_junkie]

For the brace that Soho is talking about don't use mdf. If you can, go to a hardware store and get a 1.5" or so diameter dowel rod. even an old broom handle cut down could work. Cut it slightly oversized so that get some good pressure on the baffle when you put it in.

Ok. I don't have any mdf laying around, so I was going to use something else anyways. About how many dowels do you guys think I should use? Three ? One above, below, and in the middle of the sub (I'm using the sub just as a reference point).

 

[NEO Dan]

Re: Mal-X horn folded?

Hey Dylan,
Did you get this fixed yet???

 

[waculjr.903]

Re: Mal-X horn folded?

just out of curiosity, have you thought about putting fasteners through the sub baffle that is moving from the side in combination with the perimeter fasteners of the plexiglass window? Also there is another material like plexiglass that is more rigid than plex called tuffex. It is good stuff but a little pricey.

 

[sub_junkie]

Hey Dylan,
Did you get this fixed yet???

Dan,

No sir, not yet. Tomorrow, my uncle and I are going to install a few more braces from back of the mouth to the baffle, and from the baffle to the throat hopefully. We'll be working on a joint to secure the plexi to the baffle also when we can.

just out of curiosity, have you thought about putting fasteners through the sub baffle that is moving from the side in combination with the perimeter fasteners of the plexiglass window? Also there is another material like plexiglass that is more rigid than plex called tuffex. It is good stuff but a little pricey.

Waculjr, I hadn't thought about that. Sounds like it would work well. What do you think about that idea, Dan ?

 

[NEO Dan]

Hi Dylan,
I'm thinking that waculjr.903 didn't notice the 3/8" gap between the baffle board and the plexi, but his intent is the same. By firmly connecting the baffle to the plexi you will prevent flex in both panels, however if you were to just shoot screws into the edge of the baffle board you would probably split it and then you'd really be screwed. So I still recommend the board with the dado to cap the edge of the baffle board so you have something to fill the gap that will also take the fasteners without splitting...

I'm Dan BTW

 

[sub_junkie]

Hi Dylan,
I'm thinking that waculjr.903 didn't notice the 3/8" gap between the baffle board and the plexi, but his intent is the same. By firmly connecting the baffle to the plexi you will prevent flex in both panels, however if you were to just shoot screws into the edge of the baffle board you would probably split it and then you'd really be screwed. So I still recommend the board with the dado to cap the edge of the baffle board so you have something to fill the gap that will also take the fasteners without splitting...

I'm Dan BTW

Dan,

Alright, I'll definitely be making that board asap.

And my apologies, it's just a habit :T

 

[sub_junkie]

Wasn't able to install any more bracing yesterday. Looks like it'll have to wait until next week. In the mean time I'll be trying out some PVC bracing at various spots to see where it's needed and where it's not.

 

[sub_junkie]

I cut down some schedule 40 1 1/2" PVC and placed it in various spots against the driver baffle, and the next panel in the throat, and it solved most of the rattling issues. They're still slightly there, but it seems like the mouths' sides are moving/vibrating slightly also. Is that normal ? The horn is sitting off the ground by about 5" on a four-wheel dolly, so maybe once the box is sitting on the ground, it will help stop those sides from moving/vibrating ?

 

[vitaminbass]

that is a heavy duty driver! I have a sealed Maelstrom, downfiring, weighs about 90 lbs (sonotube) and at high volumes the driver is able to lift/rattle the entire sub off the floor...and on hard surfaces I get "distortion" from the legs vibrating on the floor.

My point is, that sucker is gonna have to be super solid in there. Wouldn't have been a bad idea to have a thicker baffle board.

On the concern about splitting the end grain of the baffle if you screw into it, I agree, and there are a couple different ways to fix. The dado'ing is great if it all goes perfect and you can get a tight fit, not sure if my skills would accomplish that but maybe you are better at it. If dado slot is a loose fit, the dado accomplishes little (for a cover where you aren't gluing) because the baffle can still rattle around in there. Another option is using small threaded inserts, for say a #10 machine screw.

Regarding the plexi, I understand why you are using it to be able to see the driver. I have had a lot of trouble with plexi as far as cracks propagating from any holes where there is any kind of force. Seems to be a matter of not if, but when. If you use MDF you won't be able to see the driver. What if you compromise and make an MDF panel with a countersunk window of plexi? The plexi is glued into the MDF .

I'm excited to see how this project turns out. Some day we are making a theater room in the basement, and it will be "anything goes" on a sub box (no WAF concern).

 

[sub_junkie]

Well, I figured out another mistake on part besides the plexiglass in the most inoperable spot possible on the box; I made it so the mouth of the horn isn't corner loaded. It has a wall behind it, a wall-unit to the side, and ~23" until the next adjacent wall to the back wall. I orientated the box so the horn is completely corner loaded, and it is definitely louder. Only problem with that direction of the box is that the plexiglass is facing the back wall. Oh well. If I have parties, I'll face it so the plexi is against the wall to avoid it being scratched. But otherwise, I'll have the plexi showing.

Another interesting thing I found is if I place my eat about 6 inches off the ground, it's MUCH louder than when I'm standing up listening. Is there any to raise that gain in volume from 6" off the ground to about 5 1/2 feet ?

that is a heavy duty driver! I have a sealed Maelstrom, downfiring, weighs about 90 lbs (sonotube) and at high volumes the driver is able to lift/rattle the entire sub off the floor...and on hard surfaces I get "distortion" from the legs vibrating on the floor.

My point is, that sucker is gonna have to be super solid in there. Wouldn't have been a bad idea to have a thicker baffle board.

On the concern about splitting the end grain of the baffle if you screw into it, I agree, and there are a couple different ways to fix. The dado'ing is great if it all goes perfect and you can get a tight fit, not sure if my skills would accomplish that but maybe you are better at it. If dado slot is a loose fit, the dado accomplishes little (for a cover where you aren't gluing) because the baffle can still rattle around in there. Another option is using small threaded inserts, for say a #10 machine screw.

Regarding the plexi, I understand why you are using it to be able to see the driver. I have had a lot of trouble with plexi as far as cracks propagating from any holes where there is any kind of force. Seems to be a matter of not if, but when. If you use MDF you won't be able to see the driver. What if you compromise and make an MDF panel with a countersunk window of plexi? The plexi is glued into the MDF .

I'm excited to see how this project turns out. Some day we are making a theater room in the basement, and it will be "anything goes" on a sub box (no WAF concern).

I think what I'm going to try along with the dado'd piece of wood along the sub baffle is just drill holes in that aluminum strip that's installed, and about 6-8 more holes in the plexiglass so I can fasten it down more in the middle right there, and so the weatherstripping will be squished more also. Would that serve about the same purpose as the dado joint ?

 

[NEO Dan]

lddude:Squishy thick weatherstrip = BAD, take it out and get some thin vinyl or foamy shelf liner stuff or the gasket tape from PE:

Since the aluminum angle is on the inside of the box you can leave it in place and glue the dado'd board to it also, although driving fasteners through that combo might prove problematic, you might try pre-drilling- YMMV:whistling: Putting hurricane nuts in there would be my first choice.

 

[sub_junkie]

lddude:Squishy thick weatherstrip = BAD, take it out and get some thin vinyl or foamy shelf liner stuff or the gasket tape from PE:

Since the aluminum angle is on the inside of the box you can leave it in place and glue the dado'd board to it also, although driving fasteners through that combo might prove problematic, you might try pre-drilling- YMMV:whistling: Putting hurricane nuts in there would be my first choice.

So if I remove the current weatherstripping and replace it with something like that from parts-express, then the dado and fastening would solve that problem ? Could I just get away with drilling holes straight through the plexiglass and the aluminum, adding enough foam to seal up very well against the baffle and the plexi, and secure it down with about 6 to 8 screws ? Or would that basically not help much over what I currently have at the moment ?

 

[NEO Dan]

A visual aid:

 

[sub_junkie]

A visual aid:

Cool, that helps a lot. That's what I had envisioned on doing if I kept the aluminum in there also. Thanks again !

 

[sub_junkie]

One thing I've just noticed, is if I put my ear near the floor in my room, the bass increases greatly than when I'm standing up. Is there any way to bring that "barrier" up to about the 6 foot range ?

 

[1Michael]

Sure but your going to need a Vortex Hermiculator, or move the sub around...

 

[sub_junkie]

Sure but your going to need a Vortex Hermiculator, or move the sub around...

What's a vortex hermiculator ? And I can't change the sub placement sadly

 

[1Michael]

What's a vortex hermiculator?

It's a secret...

And I can't change the sub placement sadly

The level of bass will change throughout the room. If it is not acceptable you can either move the sub, or move the sitting position. Most people prefer the former...