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Discussion Starter #61
1Michael said:
It's a secret...

The level of bass will change throughout the room. If it is not acceptable you can either move the sub, or move the sitting position. Most people prefer the former...
I like secrets...most of the time. Depends on how much secrets cost though :p
And should the bass change with difference in distance from the ground ?
 

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Dylan - very interesting thread. I've thought quite a bit about building a horn and using one of Kevin H's drivers - since I like them so much.

It looks like I underestimated the importance of strong bracing though - after seeing what you've been through. I imagine that there is a good reason for kits like the Danley DTS-10 to have dado cuts for the section... Too bad it's hard to do without CNC!
 

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Nice build Dylan. You may have convinced me to do my own when I get the space.

It looks like I underestimated the importance of strong bracing though - after seeing what you've been through. I imagine that there is a good reason for kits like the Danley DTS-10 to have dado cuts for the section... Too bad it's hard to do without CNC!

I have a friend with access to a very large CNC router. I suppose I should get to the begging!
 

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Discussion Starter #66 (Edited)
Zeitgeist said:
Dylan - very interesting thread. I've thought quite a bit about building a horn and using one of Kevin H's drivers - since I like them so much.

It looks like I underestimated the importance of strong bracing though - after seeing what you've been through. I imagine that there is a good reason for kits like the Danley DTS-10 to have dado cuts for the section... Too bad it's hard to do without CNC!
Thank you.

Bracing is definitely a very important part that I missed, quite frankly, with installing the plexiglass where I did. The PVC bracing that I've installed has pretty much taken care of all the rattling/flexing problems, but I am still working on securing the plexiglass to the baffle.

Tom Grimes said:
Nice build Dylan. You may have convinced me to do my own when I get the space.

I have a friend with access to a very large CNC router. I suppose I should get to the begging!
I am extremely happy everyone took their time here to design this horn, and especially thankful that my uncle was willing enough to let me build this in his garage...well he pretty much did all the building :p

A CNC cut box would be extremely helpful...especially with horn boxes that require tricky angles and things like that.
 

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Discussion Starter #67
Just a little update. Got most of the rattles fixed yet again, hopefully going to get it somewhat painted tonight, and round over the edges as well.

I got a short video posted up on YouTube a couple of days ago, here's a link if you want to check it out. Song is B-Legit - Stick Em (extremely slowed down). I think the highest note in the song is around 30hz, and seems like it drops down to around 17hz. Sounds amazing. Lol.

 

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Discussion Starter #68 (Edited)
This afternoon, my Uncle brought over his router, we rounded over all the edges, sanded down what was needed, and smoothed out the rounded joints. Looms great, but the pictures aren't showing it very well. Didn't have very much light to work with, so bear with the photos please :p







The three edges on the mouth are completely round now. It looks amazing, and it super smooth. The last photo makes it look like the far edge is slightly un-even. It doesn't appear to be in person though. If it is, it's small enough to not notice it at all. It's ready for paint now. Hopefully tomorrow I can find some time to throw a few coats of truck bed liner on it and finish it up. Going to get some wold dowels soon as well, to replace the PVC that I have installed at the moment.
 

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Discussion Starter #69
Got two coats of paint on the box last night, looks alright so far. The putty used to patch the nail holes is showing through the paint, so I will hold off on more coats until I decide what to do. I think I'm going to sand down the areas that need it, and go buy some roll-on truck bed liner paint instead of the spray can stuff.
 

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How does it compare to your other box. I would love to see some REW graphs off that horn.

Brilliant mate. Well done and what a journey but the results out way the pain.

cheers

Graham
 

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Just read through the whole design thread and this one. subjunkie, would you say that you are happy with this setup? I have been looking for at designs for a while now. I like the size and apparent handling of this one. Can you recommend copying it? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #74
gperkins_1973 said:
How does it compare to your other box. I would love to see some REW graphs off that horn.

Brilliant mate. Well done and what a journey but the results out way the pain.

cheers

Graham
Graham,

This one is much better overall. I'm pretty sure my last box had some port compression happening with content playing at the tuning frequency, so that was taking away quite a bit of the LFE from it. So far the only "song" that is better on my old box is The Bass Will Destroy You. I haven't played that on the horn in a while though since I've sealed up some of the air leaks, so maybe it will be better now.

I, as well, would really like to see some REW graphs, but my parents won't let me spend any money on the equipment that I would need. Saving up for a car and college items instead.

And thanks for the kind words, Graham. :T

swank said:
Just read through the whole design thread and this one. subjunkie, would you say that you are happy with this setup? I have been looking for at designs for a while now. I like the size and apparent handling of this one. Can you recommend copying it? Thanks!
I am very happy with this design. It was a vast improvement over my 7.6 cu.ft 14hz LLT, and it puts a smile on my face every time I really crank the volume. The only thing I would change in the design is getting rid of the plexiglass. While it looks great in the box, it had put me through some trouble dealing with rattling panels and some air leaks as well.
One thing the note, though...if you are using all the dimensions supplied by the Sketchup model, be careful and triple check everything before the final cuts are made. My uncle and I had almost fouled up the whole box, because I used external and internal dimensions from the sketchup model, and the wood thickness on it is only ~ .70" instead of .75". Luckily we always make the cuts slightly oversized before the final put-together, so it worked out perfectly for us.

Drizt said:
Any chance of some REW plots?
And more than likely I won't be a able to post any unless I can use my Antimode and it's mic or my MIC2200 somehow ?
 

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One thing the note, though...if you are using all the dimensions supplied by the Sketchup model, be careful and triple check everything before the final cuts are made.
I would love to use those dimensions, but I can't seem to find the revb file? When I click on the link it just goes to a blank page. The earlier links work. Do you happen to have that file still? If so, could you repost? Thanks!
 

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Discussion Starter #76
swank said:
I would love to use those dimensions, but I can't seem to find the revb file? When I click on the link it just goes to a blank page. The earlier links work. Do you happen to have that file still? If so, could you repost? Thanks!
Sure, I'll try to find the file on my computer when I'm done with school
 

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One thing the note, though...if you are using all the dimensions supplied by the Sketchup model, be careful and triple check everything before the final cuts are made. My uncle and I had almost fouled up the whole box, because I used external and internal dimensions from the sketchup model, and the wood thickness on it is only ~ .70" instead of .75". Luckily we always make the cuts slightly oversized before the final put-together, so it worked out perfectly for us.
The SketchUp model was made with 18mm material in mind, so when using anything else small adjustments need to be made to the exterior panels.

The plans are for the main horn only, and are very general. Whether you install the driver though the mouth, or install a door is up to the builder. Bracing will need to be added, and the type depends on the driver install choice.

The attached picture will show the generals areas you will want to install bracing in yellow. I assumed everyone was aware of the need for bracing the first time out here. If you are installing a door to allow driver entry, you can place another brace over the driver near the mouth as well.

Filling in the white areas would be beneficial as well. Foam, stuffing, sand, or whatever. The blue piece is optional.
 

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Discussion Starter #78
swank said:
I would love to use those dimensions, but I can't seem to find the revb file? When I click on the link it just goes to a blank page. The earlier links work. Do you happen to have that file still? If so, could you repost? Thanks!
Do you still need the Sketchup file ? Sorry for getting back to you weeks later. I've been really busy lately with school and racing, and haven't been able to check back here recently.
 

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Discussion Starter #79
Regarding the putty patch problem showing through the paint, it seems that just another coat of paint has covered the patches up, as far as I can tell. I'll finish painting it as soon as I can, and post up some pictures. Thanks again to everyone for the help.
 
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