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I approve :)

I like how you can see the driver :)

Now buy a $30 radio shack SPL meter and run some REW sweeps ... no more excuses :p
 

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Has anyone posted a modelled SPL plot for this design? What sort of output are we looking at here ?
The SketchUp model was made with 18mm material in mind, so when using anything else small adjustments need to be made to the exterior panels.

The plans are for the main horn only, and are very general. Whether you install the driver though the mouth, or install a door is up to the builder. Bracing will need to be added, and the type depends on the driver install choice.

The attached picture will show the generals areas you will want to install bracing in yellow. I assumed everyone was aware of the need for bracing the first time out here. If you are installing a door to allow driver entry, you can place another brace over the driver near the mouth as well.

Filling in the white areas would be beneficial as well. Foam, stuffing, sand, or whatever. The blue piece is optional.
 

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Drizt,

That would gives us some idea off what you can expect.

Come on Dylan buy the spl meter, get us those REW graphs. LOL.
It would have been good to see your last sub's graphs and compare them to the new Horn.

cheers

Graham
 

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Discussion Starter #86
Thanks Mike and everyone. I'm going to try to get some more pics up in a little. Those didn't turn out too well I think.

Concerning the SPL meter, won't I need a sound card, and power adaptor for it ? I'm perfectly fine with spending $30 on a meter, but $100 plus for everything else is too much right now.
 

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Thanks Mike and everyone. I'm going to try to get some more pics up in a little. Those didn't turn out too well I think.

Concerning the SPL meter, won't I need a sound card, and power adaptor for it ? I'm perfectly fine with spending $30 on a meter, but $100 plus for everything else is too much right now.
You just need a computer with a line input, a SPL meter (RS SPL meters work) and appropriate cables.. Don't need any power adapter.
 

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Discussion Starter #88
Zeitgeist said:
You just need a computer with a line input, a SPL meter (RS SPL meters work) and appropriate cables.. Don't need any power adapter.
Oh ok. What do the line inputs look like? A 1/8" headphone jack, or are they RCA ?
I have a 1/8" input on my desktop computer that has a microphone next to it, is that what is needed ? Only problem is the desktop is in a room across the house :( lol
 

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For the Radio Shack DB meter, it's a female RCA jack... so you'd use a Male RCA -> 1/8th inch plug.

And for the soundcard calibration, you want a 1/8th to 1/8th male to male cable to do loopback calibration of the sound card.

Pretty sure it's 1/8th? Headphone jack sizes make me batty.
 

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Discussion Starter #90
Zeitgeist said:
For the Radio Shack DB meter, it's a female RCA jack... so you'd use a Male RCA -> 1/8th inch plug.

And for the soundcard calibration, you want a 1/8th to 1/8th male to male cable to do loopback calibration of the sound card.

Pretty sure it's 1/8th? Headphone jack sizes make me batty.
Ok , thanks.
I'm not really sure what that loopback calibration is, should I search Google with my soundcard info for that ?
And I think it is. It's either that, or the 3.5mm type that iPod and regular headphones use.
 

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Discussion Starter #92
Zeitgeist said:
Here is some good info here:

http://www.hometheatershack.com/forums/rew-forum/11707-room-eq-wizard-rew-information-index-links-guides-technical-articles-please-read.html

Loopback lets you test the response/timing of your sound card - so that you can account for that when doing a calibration. It's not required, but helps with the accuracy.
Ok, thanks for the link. I'll check it out. Is there any way to confirm that the 3.5mm jack on my desktop is a line in? All it has by it is a microphone, so does that mean that is it the right one ?
 

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I've had mixed success.

Most desktop PCs have a line-in.

Most laptops (without a docking station) don't. Generally they have a mic-in that may or may not work.

Some laptops are software switchable between line-in/mic-in too.
 

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Discussion Starter #95
One thing I've been pondering on getting is a low pass filter to go before the EP2500. What are my options for such a thing ?
My current receiver allows much too many 70hz plus frequencies to the sub, and causes nasty resonances in my room. I can't tell if it's something with the horn itself, or my room. Wish I could have installed some foam inside the open spaces in the horn before I slapped on the other side. Oh well. I was notified too late to remember to place foam in those places.
 

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Discussion Starter #96 (Edited)
Any ideas on what I should get ?

I would like to get something that is fairly cheap, around $30 if possible. All that I would like it to do is let me adjust the low-pass filter anywhere from 40hz-90hz, with an adjustable amount of cut that I could fiddle with to achieve the sound that I would like.

EDIT: how about this ? Could I just run the mixer before the MIC2200, and turn down the 80hz knob to my liking ? Would that function as a low pass filter ?

http://www.behringer.com/EN/Products/502.aspx
 

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Discussion Starter #97
I've recently tried boosting 90hz by 15db, with a Q of 1.6, running my Antimode EQ, and turning off the boost after EQ'ing is done, but that still is allowing too much 70hz+ frequencies through. I've tried many different boost levels, but I just doesn't sound right with a 90hz lpf. Anything else I could try ?
 

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Discussion Starter #99
Jstslamd said:
This a long shot but could you just rely on something like a reckhorn b1 or b2?
Right now, I'm using a Behringer MIC2200 for high pass and line level boosting. It also has an EQ feature on it, which I have been using for the boosting during the Antimode's EQ.
 

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Discussion Starter #100
I have to say.... I have some pretty ridiculous 27hz output on this song. The pressure difference in the room makes you feel like you have to pop your ears. Haha.


Check it out and let me know what you think. I can feel the cabinets and granite countertops moving/vibrating in my bathroom and it is secured extremely well to the ground. Haha. I was super surprised to feel it moving like it was.

Sent from my iPhone using HTShack
 
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