The SketchUp model was made with 18mm material in mind, so when using anything else small adjustments need to be made to the exterior panels.
The plans are for the main horn only, and are very general. Whether you install the driver though the mouth, or install a door is up to the builder. Bracing will need to be added, and the type depends on the driver install choice.
The attached picture will show the generals areas you will want to install bracing in yellow. I assumed everyone was aware of the need for bracing the first time out here. If you are installing a door to allow driver entry, you can place another brace over the driver near the mouth as well.
Filling in the white areas would be beneficial as well. Foam, stuffing, sand, or whatever. The blue piece is optional.
You just need a computer with a line input, a SPL meter (RS SPL meters work) and appropriate cables.. Don't need any power adapter.Thanks Mike and everyone. I'm going to try to get some more pics up in a little. Those didn't turn out too well I think.
Concerning the SPL meter, won't I need a sound card, and power adaptor for it ? I'm perfectly fine with spending $30 on a meter, but $100 plus for everything else is too much right now.
Oh ok. What do the line inputs look like? A 1/8" headphone jack, or are they RCA ?Zeitgeist said:You just need a computer with a line input, a SPL meter (RS SPL meters work) and appropriate cables.. Don't need any power adapter.
Ok , thanks.Zeitgeist said:For the Radio Shack DB meter, it's a female RCA jack... so you'd use a Male RCA -> 1/8th inch plug.
And for the soundcard calibration, you want a 1/8th to 1/8th male to male cable to do loopback calibration of the sound card.
Pretty sure it's 1/8th? Headphone jack sizes make me batty.
Ok, thanks for the link. I'll check it out. Is there any way to confirm that the 3.5mm jack on my desktop is a line in? All it has by it is a microphone, so does that mean that is it the right one ?Zeitgeist said:Here is some good info here:
Loopback lets you test the response/timing of your sound card - so that you can account for that when doing a calibration. It's not required, but helps with the accuracy.
Right now, I'm using a Behringer MIC2200 for high pass and line level boosting. It also has an EQ feature on it, which I have been using for the boosting during the Antimode's EQ.Jstslamd said:This a long shot but could you just rely on something like a reckhorn b1 or b2?