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Making A DIY Anamorphic Lens

155371 Views 169 Replies 20 Participants Last post by  Prof.
If anyone has ever considered making their own lens, but felt it would be beyond their capabilities, this DIY article that was published sometime ago might just change your mind..

It's a very straight forward description of what's required to produce a very reasonable Anamorphic lens..
Anyone with any Carpentry skills should be able to make up the lens box..and the method of setting up the prisms is clearly explained and shown..

http://www.zuggsoft.com/theater/prism.htm
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You can start a new thread in the Anamorphic Projection forum for the GTG..
Thanks done :)
OK back on topic. Today I spent the best half of the day with the industrial designer again to work out what I need to do to improve the design. It looks as if on Monday, we will be turning a massive thread on the case parts to allow it operate the same as an ISCO. This will be quite complex and I would say this project is no longer DIY, but I would like to continue to post about it here as this is still the prototype and not a commercial or production unit at this time.
do you plan on making these for sale?
This one is getting built for sure :)

Exactly how much they cost me to make will set the final sell price. Originally this was to be a DIY kit. However as I proceeded with my own lens, many challenges that would prevent an end user from enjoying their lens became apparent to me. A serious re-think was in order and this project can no longer be DIY.
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That looks shmick. I will want one for sure. I am not sure what projector to buy next any ideads? cheers well done Mark thats beautiful machining

This one is getting built for sure :)

Exactly how much they cost me to make will set the final sell price. Originally this was to be a DIY kit. However as I proceeded with my own lens, many challenges that would prevent an end user from enjoying their lens became apparent to me. A serious re-think was in order and this project can no longer be DIY.
That looks shmick. I will want one for sure. I am not sure what projector to buy next any ideads? cheers well done Mark thats beautiful machining
That's actually a render, not a real image. The machining will look good, but not as shiny as that as the plastic itself is not that shiny when machined. It all starts tomorrow after 9am and turning this idea into a reality.

It depends on what technology (DLP, LCoS or LCD) you want, and if you want 3D at this time. I prefer DLP, yet AFAIK, there are no DLPs with 3D under 10K (maybe the 5K Sharp).
UPDATE: The "tuning" ring is done as is the main case. All parts fit nice and snug. I am super impressed with the guys ability to make something this complex from ideas we discussed less than 2 weeks ago.

The photo below is of the astigmatism adjustment ring being turned on a lathe.

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What type of black finish are you planning on using for the alum. parts?
What type of black finish are you planning on using for the alum. parts?
Anodized I would say. Powder coating is too course and may clog the threaded parts. The question now is, do I get these parts done in black or another colour. I am really liking the contrasting sliver on black, so might even look into white for the threaded collar.
Ideally all the internal surfaces should be finished in chemical black, to eliminate all internal reflections..
Personally, I think having a contrasting white focus ring would distract from the overall finish..Silver..not so bad..
This MK5 looks better than prismasonic cylindrical AL.I want one for sure.:clap:
A greeting from Malaysia.
Ideally all the internal surfaces should be finished in chemical black, to eliminate all internal reflections..
Personally, I think having a contrasting white focus ring would distract from the overall finish..Silver..not so bad..
Black it is then :) The industrial designer came up with an engraved number system for the front of the focus ring. It looks good, but because one adjusts this in the dark, not much use I think.

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Looks neat but like you say, not much point when you're using it in the dark..

I take it that once the lens is adjusted correctly, then no further adjustment is ever needed..In which case the numbers around the ring would only serve to show the correct position, should the lens ring be moved anytime..
A click stop adjustment would be more appropriate, but would obviously be more expensive..
And if the lens was accidentally moved, I would simply run a test pattern and re-align it. The focus ring allows a very quick and easy adjustment and in the end, the on screen image is what you want and need to make alignment.

Did you notice something odd about the numbers?
Yeah..The spacing is 20 between all except 100 -130!?
Yeah..The spacing is 20 between all except 100 -130!?
Yeah there is that as well as something odd at the 0/360 point.
I see what you mean...0 and 360 should be at the same point! :rofl2:
That's a bit of a worry who ever did that calculation!! :unbelievable:
If I know this guy, he did it on purpose and he is probably waiting for me to say something. So anyway the idea is neat, but not practical in the dark. And no, glow in the dark numbers would work either.
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